Fridge Install?
- Thread starter theCROM
- Start date
Bumbo
New member
You might want to check your spec sheet and confirm that 14.9Ah isn't at 24 volts because that sounds optimistically low in the power consumption department for 12 volts.
If it is for 24v you will need to double the amp hours for 12v
I have metered the ARB 50 for 24 hours and it uses twice that, and that fridge is already very efficient. (350 watts hours / 24 hours @ 75F ambinet)
For the folks who are using the Jackery in passthrough, is the Jackery plugged into the AC or cigarette outlet in the cargo area? If I understand it correctly, you have to remember to press the dash switch to activate the outlets in the back every time you get in the vehicle, right?
NB17Limited
New member
We use a Dometic and Jackery combo. The 12V outlet in the back is on when the engine is running. 120V needs to be turned on. Just use the 12V to charge the Jackery and then either one for the fridge. I prefer the 12V for fridge too
Thanks. I don't have the Jackery yet so I cant tinker with it in person. Sounds like it comes with two charging cables. One for the traditional wall outlet and one for the cigarette outlet. You plugged the Jackery into the rear cigarette and then plugged the same Dometic cigarette into Jackery? Any concerns with voltage drop? I heard the rear power outlets have thin wires.
NB17Limited
New member
You get one 12V and one 120V cord with both the Jackery and the Dometic. Jackery gets its input power from the 12V in the rear of the 4Runner and the Dometic gets its input from the 12V outlet on the Jackery. I have had no issues. We end up getting to our destination with 100% battery on the Jackery. Can't comment on the exact voltage that is going to the rear outlet because I haven't had any issues that needed to be sorted out. The Jackery is really there so I don't have to turn the fridge back on every time I start the vehicle up.
Thank you! That's what I'm trying to avoid doing too. I just want to set it forget it type of thing.
apc9199
Member
I have an NrgGo 400 portable power pack that I use to run my Massimo 50 Kooler. The NrgGo has a readout for input and output simultaneously so I can monitor exactly what is going on with it. For reference, I get about 65W to 80W input from the 120V rear outlet while driving. I get between 8W and 14W input from the rear 12V outlet using the OEM wiring while driving. There is a huge difference there! My understanding is that the 12V system is capable of much more output than that, but is hampered by the thin wires. The ARB kit is a worthwhile investment for anyone who wants higher output or always-on capability.
I’m running the exact setup that NB17Limited is using, and it works just fine with my Jackery500 and Dometic CFX3-35. You CAN charge the Jackery using the 110 volt, but you have to remember to push the dash switch, so I just use the 12 volt. I use a GZ 100 suitcase panel at the campsite to charge the Jackery.
