Front Brake Line

[stever1000]

I am replacing my front rubber hoses with SS braided hose, but the passenger side hardline won't thread back into the new hose. It came out fine from the old one

Is the non threaded part of the "nut" supposed to be this long or should it be all threaded?

 

[turbo8]

Does the old rubber one thread back in? I assume the passenger side one threaded in fine?

 

[mtbtim]

That male fitting on the hard line should be threaded all the way down. If you take a look at your old rubber line, you're probably going to see remnants of those missing threads inside the female fitting.

Looks like you'll need to buy a new hard line or snag one off a wrecked 3rd Gen at a wrecking yard.

 

[stever1000]

That male fitting on the hard line should be threaded all the way down. If you take a look at your old rubber line, you're probably going to see remnants of those missing threads inside the female fitting.

Looks like you'll need to buy a new hard line or snag one off a wrecked 3rd Gen at a wrecking yard.

Couldn't I just bend a new one?

The old rubber hose will not thread back on

 

[stever1000]

Does the old rubber one thread back in? I assume the passenger side one threaded in fine?

Yes I skipped to the passenger and finished that before realizing that my drivers hardline might be toast!

I can't get it to thread on the old hose anymore either...

 

[stever1000]

Searched some more and I will pick up a 3/16" x 8" japanese brake line and bend it to shape.
All the work I do on this car takes 10x as long as it should. I had to cut the rear rubber line and use a 17mm socket to brake it free from the top of the diff, and then this line is somehow buggered up. :sniper::ballchain:

 

[nwguy]

Searched some more and I will pick up a 3/16" x 8" japanese brake line and bend it to shape.
All the work I do on this car takes 10x as long as it should. I had to cut the rear rubber line and use a 17mm socket to brake it free from the top of the diff, and then this line is somehow buggered up. :sniper::ballchain:

But you know it'll be done right, right? I try to keep that in mind when I get stuck on these week long "DIY" projects, lol

 

[BrianK14]

Get a new one from Toyota. They're super cheap, like $6

 

[octanejunkie]

I am replacing my front rubber hoses with SS braided hose, but the passenger side hardline won't thread back into the new hose. It came out fine from the old one

Is the non threaded part of the "nut" supposed to be this long or should it be all threaded?

https://flic.kr/p/XVawQ7

Like others have said, you need to replace it, but if you "have" to drive it while you source the replacement, you can grind the shoulder off threaded fitting (where the threads used to be) down a bit and take the hose out of the frame clamp and start it by hand. Use thread sealer or pipe tape and your old hose for now and throw it all out when you get the replacement hard line.

 

[stever1000]

Get a new one from Toyota. They're super cheap, like $6

Toyota parts in Canada are $$$. They quoted me $16.50 before tax and it would be 2 weeks coming from the US.

I bought an 8" section of straight tube for $3.50 - I will try this tonight. I used a soft measuring tape and the OEM piece is ~10" so I will hopefully do less of a bend and make it work. I also bought an extra 8" and 12" if I screw up....

The fittings on the new tube are blue...maybe they will give me more HP ound:

 

[mtbtim]

Toyota parts in Canada are $$$. They quoted me $16.50 before tax and it would be 2 weeks coming from the US.

I bought an 8" section of straight tube for $3.50 - I will try this tonight. I used a soft measuring tape and the OEM piece is ~10" so I will hopefully do less of a bend and make it work. I also bought an extra 8" and 12" if I screw up....

The fittings on the new tube are blue...maybe they will give me more HP ound:

How do you bend metal brake line without crimping the line if you need to do some major bending? I reckon there must be some type of special tool to accomplish this. Hopefully the amount of bending you need to do is minimal and you won't have any issues with crimping the line.

 

[stever1000]

How do you bend metal brake line without crimping the line if you need to do some major bending? I reckon there must be some type of special tool to accomplish this. Hopefully the amount of bending you need to do is minimal and you won't have any issues with crimping the line.

I borrowed a tube bender... it's all part of the experiment. There is only 2 bends, not too complicated

 

[mtbtim]

I borrowed a tube bender... it's all part of the experiment. There is only 2 bends, not too complicated

Could you share a picture of what this tube bender looks like?

 

[3bears]

Could you share a picture of what this tube bender looks like?

we used to do this all the time on old cars. there are several styles, one looks like a long spring and you put the pipe in it and make the gentle bends. they come in different diameters. but that stule you have to use before you install the "nut" and make the flare
the other looks like a half moon shape hard metal that you bend around it

 

[stever1000]

Could you share a picture of what this tube bender looks like?

Here is one style...

I will try to remember to post a picture in use tonight

 

[ajordan1975]

How do you bend metal brake line without crimping the line if you need to do some major bending? I reckon there must be some type of special tool to accomplish this. Hopefully the amount of bending you need to do is minimal and you won't have any issues with crimping the line.

i use my hand, and any thing round (jack handle, beer can, etc).
it's really easy, just have to go slow.

 

[octanejunkie]

i use my hand, and any thing round (jack handle, beer can, etc).
it's really easy, just have to go slow.

Easy to do by hand with aluminium, SS not so much, but the beer bottle neck is probably close to the correct radius for the front brake hardline bends

 

[stever1000]

Ok, it worked really well. Here is the bender in action:

Finished product:

No kinks, and went very smoothly. The OEM line was easy to copy, and after getting near the same on each bend it fit perfectly first try

 

[schwipt]

Just to add to this thread:

I was also having trouble getting my stainless steel lines (from wheelers) to thread into the hard lines. I came across this post and noticed that I also had no threads along the bottom portion of the bolt.

So, I purchased new OEM hard lines (pre and post flexible line). Even on the new hard lines the only full threaded nut is at the caliper. All others sides still have the non threaded part.

I then noticed on my SS lines that the ends were different lengths. The slightly longer end I could get about a half turn by hand, and the slightly shorter end I could only get about 1/16 a turn by hand. The second you take a wrench to it and put any force on it, it pops out.

I can get about 2 full hand turns using the OEM flexible line, and they are easy as can be to install.

TLDR: The only hard line that is fully threaded should be the one going into the caliper. All others have a portion of no threads to start.
If you are having trouble getting SS lines on, check the depth of the threads vs the OEM flexible line - My SS lines did not have deep enough threads to get a proper connection.

I may take some pictures later

 

[brillo_76]

I always use OEM brake lines as they are not that expensive in the USA. I mostly paint the new brakes lines with rust-oleum. However, I have used the little copper nickel lines from Napa {shortest ones they had for Japanese vehicles 3/16 }as I was changing brakes and the piston pushed out too far damaging the caliper. So being I needed to get this back in the road fast. I couldn't wait for the OEM lines. Both Front calipers where changed on Tetanus 1 with re-mfg calipers. As the originals with 250K and 21 years needed to be replaced anyways. {Salt had them pretty oxidized} The Braking did improve when the new calipers went on along with Rotors and New Pads.