Front brakes, always issues, Why Toyota, WHY?

[97BlackAckCL]

If the issue is on multiple vehicles, it's not the manufacturer, it's the driver

 

[Grug556]

I believe the concept that rotors are warping isnt technically correct. I dont think your generating even near enough heat to actually warp the disc. Instead I think the issue is accumulation of brake pad deposits which result in a feeling of out of balance and inhibit smooth pad to disc surface area contact. Can you get a better pad maybe?

 

[mo_mo]

75k replaced rear pads. Will do the fronts at 80k. No “warpage”, tracks true without shimmies under all braking pressures. Never had an issue with Brake Assist either... maybe I don’t activate it enough chasing stop lights.

 

[TOYO74]

Been driving Toyotas for 45 years , which includes sedan, FJ40, and 4Runners. Never have had a problem with brakes/rotors/pads, and in fact they have exceeded my expectations with performance and longevity. Maybe I have a lighter brake foot than the OP.

 

[<<<<]

4th gen is notorious for seized front calipers and warped rotors. I had my upgraded with EBC rotors Hawk pads and reman Quest lifetime calipers because i can just swap another set in when they seize again.

 

[UtahRnr]

I have owned 8 different Toyota 4wd truck models - 4Runners, Tundras, and Tacomas - and I have only experienced one set of warped rotors, ever, in almost 20 years.

That one set was on our current 2010 Sequoia. I know for a fact they were cheap aftermarket rotors, because that’s what I bought when I replaced them and money was tight.

We have 6 kids. On a road trip pulling a trailer, with fully loaded Sequoia and a stuffed roof box adding more weight, I know I warped them trying to brake like it was just me in the truck instead of 8 people plus thousands more pounds in weight to stop.

My guess is that your lack of luck with warping rotors has more to do with your driving style than the quality of the rotors. Hey, even retired mechanics can have a lead foot

Buy premium aftermarket rotors, or buy directly from Toyota, and don’t be aggressive on braking in your everyday driving. Try that for a year and then tell me you’re still warping every set.

Toyota’s rotors will be better than aftermarket almost always. Only premium aftermarket will come close. There are racing applications (carbon and slotted rotors) that I’ve purchased for other vehicles, but these were cars and not Toyota trucks. These vehicles ARE HEAVY and Toyota prides itself on the safety record and reputation of their vehicles. To maintain that, they do insane testing on the brake components.

Here’s another anecdotal story for ya. My dad is a very aggressive driver. As he has gotten older (he’s 68) he has become an even worse driver. Not only does he accelerate very aggressively, but he speeds and he always brakes at the last second. In city driving, it’s like racing from one stop light to the next. When I ride with him I always thinking we are gonna plow into the stopped cars in front of us. He warps all his rotors too, by the way. Chevy Silverado, and Toyota Sequoia (gen 1).

Again, I’m convinced it’s driving style.

 

[4Reak Show]

1995 4Runner, 252,000 miles. Never turned rotors, only replaced lads. Zero shimmy.

2011 Corolla, 115,000 miles. Swap freshly turned rotors with each of the 3 brake jobs so far. Zero shimmy.

2005 Matrix. 50,000 miles. Turned rotors once for a brake job. Zero shimmy. (Sold)

1996 Corolla, 176,000 miles. Turned rotors with each brake job. Zero shimmy. (Sold)

2016 4Runner, 20,000 miles. Original brakes. Zero shimmy.

Although my inlaws do laugh at me because I get passed by Priuses (Prii plural?) fairly regularly thus indicating I drive quite conservatively. I would guess there's a large amount of aggressiveness to your driving style. That and rear brakes may need some attention.

 

[fixer5000]

i suspect the key is to always use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs up. steel wheels dont suffer from warped rotors but aluminum sure as hell do. use that torque wrench

 

[Captsolo]

replaced rotors with AM from China 1 year ago.

Thanks for the replies everyone.


Some things to note.

I am a retired mechanic.

There is not, and never has been, any mechanical/maintenance issues with these trucks brake systems. Nothing sticking, dragging, etc.

I drive with authority, not like a lazy Sunday driver, or old person, but not like a race car either. I consider it normal driving. I drive to get somewhere 99% of the time, not to site see.

I do live in a very high traffic area, have most of my life.

NEVER had this issue on any other brand/model of vehicle I have ever owned, or had in my family, to include motorcycles.

Fords, Escorts and Tuarus.
Chevys, S10 Blazers and Pickups. Modified to high hp, 400+
v6 Corsica's.
Pontiac Grand AM
Mitsubishi Eclipse 500+hp
Dodge Durango
Lexus GS300
Lexus ES350
Honda Accords, Civics
Suzuki bikes, Yamaha bikes, Honda bikes.

Every Toyota truck that has been in my family has had this same issue.

1st genT100
2nd gen T100
1st gen Tundra
3rd gen Tundra
3rd gen 4Runner
5th gen 4Runner

I am surprised this is not a bigger issue on the forum.
As a mechanic most of the non standard maintenance we did on Toyota's was brakes/rotors due to warping, it is very commonly known for Toyota trucks.

Just looking for anyone who has this problem, and solved it.

What brand/type of front rotors they went with, so I can save some money, frustration, labor, and trial and error on this new 4Runner.

If I am the only one here with this issue, so be it lol.
Tell me i'm unlucky or a terrible driver. At least that gives me an answer to ponder.

Thanks gang!

I replaced the rotors on my SR5 2005 2WD 4runner with 145,000 miles during a brake job 1 year ago. OEM rotors that came on the 4runner were worn "thin". The original OEMs lasted 14 years. Can't do much better than that! Braking has been like "new" since that brake job.

Credit a good mechanic at a good shop with 12 lifts for the brake job. They banged on a new wheel bearing once - and it took a lot of work, so I ordered a full front wheel assembly if the other side WB fails. Much easier with assembly - as opposed to the bearing by itself.

 

[kenwilliams0803]

My last set started to shimmy at like 10k miles. Centric ceramic pads and premium rotors. I always use a torque wrench and also loosen and retorque myself if a shop touches them.

This time around I went for Akebono pads and centric premium rotors. So far so good after 10k. Also had to replace both front brake calipers (pins completely seized in even though the pads were still free). That might have had something to do with the initial issues too. These pads really help with the weird Toyota brake grab issue and stop better at light pedal pressure and overall seem much more progressive than either the stock ones or the centric pads.

 

[Maingear]

I wrote the brakes up on my owner satisfaction servey. They designed the brakes correctly on the 2nd gen and newer Tundras. The knocked the trailer connector and hitch out of the park and only teased us with the standard deviation factor when designing the brakes.

BTW, I bought a second set of rotors as a spare and turn the set I pull off.

 

[nevada]

I believe the concept that rotors are warping isnt technically correct. I dont think your generating even near enough heat to actually warp the disc. Instead I think the issue is accumulation of brake pad deposits which result in a feeling of out of balance and inhibit smooth pad to disc surface area contact. Can you get a better pad maybe?

correct.


the proper break in procedure is a bit involved, and most people do not get anywhere close to doing it correctly.

Bedding In Brake Rotors



I have resurfaced a LOT of rotors over the years. some of the test drives had very bad pulsation, and often times actual brake pedal bounce. but, throwing the rotor on the lathe showed me it was running true. a very light surface cut and NEW pad, and braking was back to being nice and smooth.


I would guess barring a some physical contact that would actually bend a rotor, 99% of the time its uneven friction material build up. most likely due to driving style, and improper break in. although a mechanical failure could do it too. stuck slide pins, or seized pistons could potentially make the issue worse.

 

[thennen]

So I have a 98 4Runner with just under 300k miles.

Lifted with Tundra front struts and OME 2" rear springs.
No armor, steel bumpers, racks, skids, sliders, or any other weight adding stuff.
285/75/16 E mud tires.

This truck has warped over 6 sets of front brake rotors since I bought it about 6 years ago at 202k miles.

Even in the beginning with 265/70/16 P all terrains, makes no difference.

I have even swapped in 2001 Tundra largest option front calipers, rotors and pads.

Warped those about 1 year ago, after about 2 years of use.

Never turn rotors, ALWAYS replace them.

Now, my new to me 2011 4Runner came to be mine, with already warped front rotors that I did not notice until it was to late.

What front rotors do you all recommend for the 2011 4Runner Limited that are warp resistant?

I am in Northern Va, so local stores preferred, but open to shipping if they are good and not to expensive.

So far I am looking at Stoptechs fromm Olympus Auto rated heavy duty for about $130 each.

And the best unknown crap Advance auto has at $90 each not rated heavy duty but cost more then standard rotors.

Would Toyota dealer rotors be better? I know they cost a lot, like the same as Olympus heavy duties or more.

I really want to avoid replacing rotors every year like my other truck.

Thanks Toyota for your shitty design mistakes that you won't acknowledge or correct.

Also BA (Brake Assist) can FOAD!

Sorry i'm a bit irritated by this ongoing bullshit brake issues on Toyota trucks.

My father went through similar issues with the 1st year T100's and even some of his later newer Tundras.

Toyota, get your brake shit together and stop screwing us over, make the brakes BIGGER and better cooling!

Thanks for any advice.

You ask if Toyota dealer rotors would be better, which tells me you haven't tried OEM yet. Here's my story.

Had warped after-market rotors on my 2001 several years ago (I know others are saying they're more likely worn than warped - bear with me). Those subsequently warped after a while. Replaced them with a third new set of after-market ones. Those did the same thing in a short time.

Talked with my parts guy at the Toyota dealership that I've frequented since 1982. He said this often happens with rotors sourced from China and elsewhere because the steel used is often recycled, which can result in an uneven density across the rotor. These different densities heat, cool, expand, and contract differently. This is his theory, not a supported fact as far as I know. But I do know that I bought OEM rotors that day (the dealerships also sell non-OEM in some places, so ask), and had zero trouble afterward. Fyi, I'm gentle on my brakes, preferring to let the vehicle coast down as permitted by traffic. I'm not a late-braker.

So whether your driving style, choice of rotors, bolt torque, or some other thing is causing your headaches, I would at least try OEM. Like others here, I've put lots of miles on lots of Toyotas, and the issue above is the only rotor problem I've ever had with any of them.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

My wife warps rotors on her 2014 SR5, but we’re doing heavy mountain driving up and down from 8,500’ to sea level in California. Tried Stoptech drilled and slotted and they lasted 20K Miles, maybe less. Currently using Raybestos Advanced Technology slotted, $75 shipped from RockAuto. They are doing the trick.

 

[Charlievee]

Running full metalic pads?

 

[83Mule]

My Wife ate the stock pads in 27K.......aftermarket go 15. She is a braking MONSTER!.......but I never have to touch the rotors. I have found the slide pins really need to be polished smooth and lubed on Toyotas.

 

[scarpozzi]

I used to drive a Buick Regal that had issues with warping rotors. I had changed my pads to aftermarket pads and it didn't take them long to heat up and warp the rotors. I replaced those rotors with aftermarket rotors, but didn't replace the pads and they warped withing 8-10k miles. I just dealt with it and got used to the rumble when coming to a stop on the interstate.

On my 2011 4Runner, I just changed out my brake pads. My rotors were fine, but I ordered OEM pads because I didn't want a hard metallic pad damaging my good rotors OR heating up because it was made cheaply.

Same thing for Rotors...if I order replacements, they will be OEM rotors. I don't know if they're better quality, but I've had better luck with them.

On the 4Runner, you don't have to remove the caliper to replace the brakes. You just pop a few metal keepers off, can open the calipers up with a little leverage and pull the old pads out. This might be a time to do visual inspection and make sure both pads are wearing evenly and might tell you if the caliper is dragging more on one side... If the rotors are aftermarkets and not the correct thickness (spec), it could cause some issues, in theory. So that's something else to consider if you didn't buy it new.

 

[CutthroatSlam]

The worst thing to do that will cause “warped” rotors is to come to an abrupt stop from relatively high speed and then just sit there with your foot on the brakes. This will cause a hot spot under the pads which causes the metal to harden. The surrounding metal is softer and wears more quickly, creating a high spot where the hardened metal is. The rotors can be turned, but the high spot will develop again.

The OP brags about driving with a purpose, but what he’s really saying is that he drives aggressively, which is the root cause of his brake problems. He says it doesn’t happen on any other car, but are they comparable in weight?

 

[Surfinguru]

So how about "scored" rotors along with some pulsing? I've got 35k on the dial and pads were just measured at 7mm. (Just did the 35k service and that's what service commented on.) I wouldn't say I'm abusive at all, but I do drive over an 1,800' pass with stop and go work traffic twice a day, so a lot of downhill breaking due to that fact. Never had this issue with my 07 Tacoma.

OEM replacement rotors or just have them turned next service interval?

 

[4Running2017]

may I piggy back on this issue

I bought my 2017 4runner limited used with just under 15000 miles in January 2020.
I'm on my 3rd set of front rotors.
I went with an after market cross drilled which listed for about 6 months.
Now on oem from the dealer and it's been about another 6 months and the steering wheel has begun to shake under braking again.

Fyi....I'm not new to driving so it's not my driving habits if all my other vehicles were no problem

Any suggestions/recommendations????