Front Differential Carrier removal advice!

[TN_Soljah808]

So I may have some time come Sunday to remove my old 4.10 carrier out and put in my 4.30 so I can finally use 4WD safely.

Any advice for me?

It took me two days to remove the rear and install the new rear end. What a pain! By the way I don't have much mechanical knowledge.

:thanks:

 

[J-money$$$]

Your going to have a great time . my best advice for getting the front dif out is to unplug everything first take the 2 front bolts out and the rear stud off (12 mm allen wrench) then jack it up a little and take the entire rear cushion off (two upside down 17 mm bolts ) ... hold on

Let me get this straight You just swapped carriers? Or are you talking about the entire front diff and rear third member. You cant just switch carriers and expect you 4.30 ring gear to mesh with the 4.10 pinion gear in the clamshell.

I expect you are swapping front diffs. So once you get it out remove the add tube ( 4 bolts and they need a large torx socket) You may have to pop the stub shaft off, and put it in the new diff.

Ohh its going to be so much fun My front locker took 5 hours. not too bad considering i did the back in 2-3 hours.

 

[TN_Soljah808]

Sorry to confuse you. But yes it's the entire front and rear. the rear is done and I have driven over 500+ miles on it without problems. I have used 4WD a little with no problems.

So are you telling me that the front is worse then the rear? I can't believe it. I wanted to quit after day one for the rear. But then I only spend $56 dollars to install myself.

 

[YotaZach85]

I don't know why everyone has such a hard time with the front diffs... it's easy peasy. I pulled and fully rebuilt front and rear diffs in my Tacoma in about 6 hours. Theres only 2 bolts and 1 nut/stud holding the diff in (you'll need a 12mm allen wrench or socket for the rearward nut), the drive shaft, cv shafts (which you only need to pull the diff side), 1 or 2 vac. lines, and an electrical connector or two. If you need to swap out extension tubes you will need E-Torxs, other than the E-Torxs and the 12mm allen you don't need any "special" tools to complete the job.

 

[J-money$$$]

I don't know why everyone has such a hard time with the front diffs... it's easy peasy. I pulled and fully rebuilt front and rear diffs in my Tacoma in about 6 hours. Theres only 2 bolts and 1 nut/stud holding the diff in (you'll need a 12mm allen wrench or socket for the rearward nut), the drive shaft, cv shafts (which you only need to pull the diff side), 1 or 2 vac. lines, and an electrical connector or two. If you need to swap out extension tubes you will need E-Torxs, other than the E-Torxs and the 12mm allen you don't need any "special" tools to complete the job.

I dont think its hard, like I said 5 hours out, locked and in. But if you think the rear is horrible like the OP then maybe your in for a pretty bad day.

by the way i hate those e-torxs.

 

[YotaZach85]

I dont think its hard, like I said 5 hours out, locked and in. But if you think the rear is horrible like the OP then maybe your in for a pretty bad day.

by the way i hate those e-torxs.

That's true, 2 days for the rear...he's gonna struggle pretty good on the front.

I was pissed when I saw they were e-torxs, who the hell uses e-torx and who the hell has e-torx sockets in their tool box?!?

 

[brian2sun]

I have used 4WD a little with no problems.

OP, quit driving in 4wd with 2 different ratios. 4.10 and 4.30 are pretty close and on dirt, the tires will slip enough to not notice. But it's still not good, and you'll grenade your t-case before long if the tires get some good traction when your in 4wd.

BTW, why are you going to all the trouble to go from 4.10s to 4.30s? I'm guessing it's because you got a 4.30 elocked rear? Otherwise the difference isn't worth any real money or labor IMO. Your rpms might go up 100 at 70 mph.

 

[YotaZach85]

OP, quit driving in 4wd with 2 different ratios. 4.10 and 4.30 are pretty close and on dirt, the tires will slip enough to not notice. But it's still not good, and you'll grenade your t-case before long if the tires get some good traction when your in 4wd.

BTW, why are you going to all the trouble to go from 4.10s to 4.30s? I'm guessing it's because you got a 4.30 elocked rear? Otherwise the difference isn't worth any real money or labor IMO. Your rpms might go up 100 at 70 mph.

I think he did go with an e-locker set up, that's the only reason I can see swapping whole housings unless his was rusted out but I still wouldn't go through the trouble for 4.30s either, it wasn't even worth the trouble to go from 4.10s to 4.56s.

 

[J-money$$$]

exactly, going to 4.30 from 4.10 is about 5% difference. You will never notice it. But if you scored an elocker and were doing a retrofit maybe then it could be justified. 4.88's are the minimum when re-gearing.

 

[TN_Soljah808]

My rear was rusted and leaking. And I couldn't find 4.10 within 100 miles. So I bought 4.30 for about $600ish for front and rear with elocker. I didn't go 4.30 for off road reasons or towing it was the easiest way to get my rear axle replaced without searching for months finding a 4.10.

 

[TN_Soljah808]

Also I only used 4WD because I was stuck on the boat ramp and couldn't pull my PWC out.

 

[LittleCaesar]

Did you do the grey wire mod for the locker? If so, then you can engage the locker next time going up the boat ramp without using 4wd.

The 4.10 locker is out there. I scored one but it was pretty elusive. Many 4.30s out there.

To quell my curiosity, is this ramp cover in algae? How big is your PWC?

 

[YotaZach85]

My rear was rusted and leaking. And I couldn't find 4.10 within 100 miles. So I bought 4.30 for about $600ish for front and rear with elocker. I didn't go 4.30 for off road reasons or towing it was the easiest way to get my rear axle replaced without searching for months finding a 4.10.

That's a hell of a deal! Nothing wrong with that at all.

Also I only used 4WD because I was stuck on the boat ramp and couldn't pull my PWC out.

You didn't do any damage, people make it out to be a bigger deal than what it is. Now if you were running a 4.10 and like a 4.88 yes, you could really do some damage.

 

[J-money$$$]

Generally as long as your within 5% its considered fine. Think about those with a SAS using a d44 waggy axle Say you run 5.29's in the rear yota axle, but there are no 5.29's made for the d44 so you just run 5.38's People have been doing that for years 5% isnt enough to cause an issue. But a 15% difference would just be awesome to watch. it would cause serious carnage