I just put Beck/Arnely upper & lower BJs on my 95, they came marked 555 & MiJ.
I believe that indicates same mfg, if not spec, as OEM.
They came with plugged holes & zerks, roughly $30 each.
My 95 likely originals were zerked, I just feel like repeating, "don't grease the ball joint to the point you blow out the boot". A little goes along way, if you don't fill the boot the first time.
If you hold off on the work a couple years, I'll let you know how mine last. The original 555 lasted 20 years and could've gone further, on a largely non-abused truck. I hope to shave some time off that, and get them dirty.
I sent back some AC Delco's Pros due to a shipping schedule foobar on their part, pretty blue boots, 25% more money.
I replaced my originals simply because they were loose turning in most positions, then binding at the extremes, 20 years old, replace now rather than in the desert.
I used a large and small pitman puller to remove U&L BJs (you can borrow from many autoparts stores) , you will hear how hammers are tool enough but I disagree with nicking a bunch of stress risers on the expensive & hard to find ( good, anyway) steering knuckle.
Beating directly on the ball joint sucks because the angles and clearances are not very hammer friendly, and the fact both Control arms move takes a lot of the Force out of the the blows. Heat can be a useful idea but the grease and the boot burn up to make a major messy stink before the heat really does much good. My truck is low corrosion , so maybe I got off lucky with the potentially overmatched pitman pullers doing ball joint duty.
While the tie rod ends are fairly easy to check for looseness in the usual way (rock the wheel while grasping each joint)
also notice that there is both a Pitman arm (hanging from the steering assist box D side), and an associated idler arm & bracket on the passenger side.
My idler arm was slightly loose (alignment shop declined to do the alignment over it), hard to tell with out a helper, but hanging on the center link like a bench press and shaking did reveal it. You can buy the whole idler arm assembly anywhere from $14 to well over $100 and up & up, but internally the wear parts are only two bushings and a grease seal, which you can shop around and get from Toyota all for under $10 total. I'm going to try that route, will post if I get in there and become frustrated or disappointed.
It's interesting to note there is a screw on top of the power steering box designed to adjust steering play if the steering wheel feels somewhat vague
