Front lockers Questions
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badattitude
Member
Detroit's truetrac may be a good option in the front. It is not selectable but is really smooth. I have one in the rear and can't tell it's there until I'm on loose dirt or ice. I recommend truetrac for some help on the front.
J-money$$$
New member
I have an Aussie locker up front and love it, it was under $300 and I got to install it my self. the install wasn't too bad either, you don't have to set the bs or anything just take apart and put it back together with the aussie in it.
And as far as the less strain and what not, an arb make a spool when locked, that puts plenty of strain on cv joints, but you do have the luxury of turning it off. I have broke a couple cv joints since the install of my front locker two months ago. But then again one was in the hammers at jv, and the other got messed up in Moab then broke on Holcomb creek. it's doesn't really unlock too much, and rarely ratchets. It was perfect for me, and I know some one who installed a front arb around the same time as me and said they didn't think it was worth the 4 times greater price. I also forgot to mention that it is completely invisible when in 2wd. The only thing different is that the front drive shaft will spin with the drivers front tire, but it is free in the t case. Before the locker the front drive shaft was free in 2wd and you could turn it by hand.
Like I said I love it, it's good for hard wheeling, there is no tire size restriction like the lock rights, and it was inexpensive.
Edit: I don't see that you have a rear locker. If you don't lock that first. And I wouldn't install a locker for chunked tires. It's so you can make it through harder trails.
And as far as the less strain and what not, an arb make a spool when locked, that puts plenty of strain on cv joints, but you do have the luxury of turning it off. I have broke a couple cv joints since the install of my front locker two months ago. But then again one was in the hammers at jv, and the other got messed up in Moab then broke on Holcomb creek. it's doesn't really unlock too much, and rarely ratchets. It was perfect for me, and I know some one who installed a front arb around the same time as me and said they didn't think it was worth the 4 times greater price. I also forgot to mention that it is completely invisible when in 2wd. The only thing different is that the front drive shaft will spin with the drivers front tire, but it is free in the t case. Before the locker the front drive shaft was free in 2wd and you could turn it by hand.
Like I said I love it, it's good for hard wheeling, there is no tire size restriction like the lock rights, and it was inexpensive.
Edit: I don't see that you have a rear locker. If you don't lock that first. And I wouldn't install a locker for chunked tires. It's so you can make it through harder trails.
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cordrayj1
New member
Jmoney, so when u are going around tight turns and switchbacks on trails ur not binding up in the front? or are you taking out of 4wd?
cuz if its not binding up/racheting bad ill be gettin another aussie for the front
DeTwizzle
New member
^ No I have the factor e-locker in the rear. The rear tires do all the pushing.
Since that, my rear tires chunk out alot quicker than the front. Yes I will rotate regularly to help with that.
I think that if I loosed my coilovers a tad bit it would loose the front suspension.
I was thinking that letting some gas out of them might make them a little less stiff.
Since that, my rear tires chunk out alot quicker than the front. Yes I will rotate regularly to help with that.
I think that if I loosed my coilovers a tad bit it would loose the front suspension.
I was thinking that letting some gas out of them might make them a little less stiff.
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Singtoe
New member
Sounds like you need to invest in some Aisin Hub lockers.
J-money$$$
New member
If its in dirt/loose rock it doesnt bind at all. sometimes it will ratchet, but generally a tire will just slip a little. If it ratchets too easily it wouldnt be a locker
It will bind it you even think of putting it in 4wd on the street. I backed out of my garage in 4 wd and it was binding. I have had it bind in Moab out in the slick rock. but noting a little reverse couldnt fix. You just make the really sharp truns on the slick rock into multiple point turns. I highly recommend the front aussie. I have never had to take it out of 4 lo because of binding. Plus besides moab and cougar buttes most wheeling is on a mix of dirt and rock and that is where it works perfectly. I am contemplating putting the add on a switch. That way you can disengage the passenger side cv manually is it starts to bind, then relock the add later
That is the reason i want an add switch. If i can unlock the add manually i would be able to have 3 wheel drive and eliminate the front binding in sharp curves. The Manual hubs would be great as well, if i could find some cheap I would entertain that idea. I figure im starting to save for an sas.
brian2sun
Elite Member
Snow is the main reason I went with ARBs. Having my diffs open on packed snow is just as important to me as as having them locked when I'm in deep snow. I have to DD in all types of snow for months out of the year so the extra cost of the ARBs was worth it to me. But, if I didn't live where it snowed a lot, I probably woulda just gone with Aussies front and rear.
J-money$$$
New member
I fully agree Brian. I dont have to really deal with icy roads. If you liv in the mountains i would say go arb, if not save some cash and try an aussie, I say stay away from lockrights as they dont have as good of a warranty and my rear is not so good.
Heck If you put it in and hate it worst case you pull it out and sell it for $250 Its not like its stuck in there. just save those spider gears
Heck If you put it in and hate it worst case you pull it out and sell it for $250 Its not like its stuck in there. just save those spider gears
Gerdo
New member
Since probably over half my wheeling miles are in Moab, I would have to go for an ARB. Also living in a snowy area!
LINY4Runner
New member
I run the Detroit Tru-Trac in the front...it's worked amazing for me! Not much binding, just feels like the tires are flat :lol:
It's great paired with the rear e-locker
It's great paired with the rear e-locker
Mr. Leary
New member
Please elaborate on the above statement.
LINY4Runner
New member
Imagine driving on pavement with flat front tires...that's what the steering feels like with the front Tru Trac...not totally binding but there's definitely resistance
That's probably not a good thing.
J-money$$$
New member
My front locker doent even feel that crazy, they only way you can tell the font end starts binding is because the tires chirp.
And your tires should be almost flat when wheeling anyways
And your tires should be almost flat when wheeling anyways
LINY4Runner
New member
And your tires should be almost flat when wheeling anyways
Eek! not with these 17's...I can't go much lower than 18-20
J-money$$$
New member
Ahh let the rocks chew em up. Mine are horribly chewed up, but i like to run around 12 psi. Heck i usually pull the valve cores untill it whistles and call it good. Usually right around 12. You know your wheels are bad when its 11 pm at night and someone walks by and comments saying " i love all the rock rash on your wheels"
Mr. Leary
New member
Ahh let the rocks chew em up. Mine are horribly chewed up, but i like to run around 12 psi. Heck i usually pull the valve cores untill it whistles and call it good. Usually right around 12. You know your wheels are bad when its 11 pm at night and someone walks by and comments saying " i love all the rock rash on your wheels"
:lol:
I would seem to be a badge of sorts!
