Front lower ball joint attachment and steering knuckle wont align

[Xhado]

So I'm installing my a front shock and I've run into an issue that maybe someone can help me out with.

From the Toyota install insturctions I'm on 2.e
"(e) Push down on the steering knuckle so that it
aligns with the lower ball joint assembly.
(f) Use a 19mm socket to install and torque the
front lower ball joint attachment with the two
bolts (Fig. 2-4)."

The problem is, the steering knuckle is about 2 inches away from the lower ball joint attachement, no matter how I twist them about.

Any ideas on how to get these holes aligned?

 

[randomguy]

Don’t be afraid to jack it up a bit more.

Also did you disconnect the sway bar? Alignment cam bolts loosened?

 

[Xhado]

Don’t be afraid to jack it up a bit more.

Also did you disconnect the sway bar? Alignment cam bolts loosened?

Here it is jacked up all the way before it starts lifting the rest of the vehicle


KDSS is disconneded from the LCA, which is the tube on the right side of the pictures.

Allighment cam bolts are loose enoguh to spin with my fingers.

 

[Gt4r]

Keep jacking up and swivel the lbj attachment to fit underneath. You can also lift up on the spindle. I think i ended up propping it up with a 2x4 before i disconnected it so it didnt droop too low. just saw the last pic. did your axle pop out of the diff?

 

[KP Texan]

Did you bolt the strut up to the lower mount yet?

Never mind, I see that you did.

 

[Xhado]

Keep jacking up and swivel the lbj attachment to fit underneath. You can also lift up on the spindle. I think i ended up propping it up with a 2x4 before i disconnected it so it didnt droop too low. just saw the last pic. did your axle pop out of the diff?

Even when I jack it as far as it can go, the disstance is the same. I can swivel the LBJ attachemnt to meet one of hte holes, but theyn the other is 4"-5" away.

How could I check if hte axle is popped out? considering the Knuckle is a consistant 2" away no mater the height, this may be the case.

 

[Gt4r]

What does it look like where the axle connects to the diff. if it came out your floor would have diff oil on it, so it probaby isnt that. Do you have the spindle connected to the uca? It may just be tilted if it isnt.

 

[Xhado]

What does it look like where the axle connects to the diff. if it came out your floor would have diff oil on it, so it probaby isnt that. Do you have the spindle connected to the uca? It may just be tilted if it isnt.

Yes no diff oil anywhere but in the diff right now.

The knuckle is still attached to the UCA. The only things I removed was the KDSS attachment ot the LCA, these two LBJ bolts and I loosened the alighment Cams so I could drop the shock out.

 

[wfo9]

Not understanding why the lower ball joint was removed to replace a shock. It is totally unnecessary.

Anyway. Do you have the tie rod attached? I would take that off before wasting any more time. If the axle popped out it would be real obvious. Just look at the other side.

 

[Xhado]

Not understanding why the lower ball joint was removed to replace a shock. It is totally unnecessary.

Anyway. Do you have the tie rod attached? I would take that off before wasting any more time. If the axle popped out it would be real obvious. Just look at the other side.

LBJ was not removed, rather the bracket that attaches it to the knuckle was disconneted.

See step 9 in this thread
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...%92s-ideas-since-mid-2010-a-6.html#post754964
I'm essentially stuck at step 27, replacing those two bolts.

Tie rods have not been touched. That may be my next step in throuble shooting.

Comparing the side to the untouched side, it looks like the axle has extened out two inches, or the LCA has retracted two inches. If you look at my top picture, the metal piece at the the skinny end of the boot should be in line with the bottom of the shock.

Also, this may be related. My driver tire is now slightly turned right. It wasnt like that when it was initiall lifted.

 

[DKFTPNYC]

It is possible the joint popped out of the axle. Rare but still possible, preventing the knuckle from being exactly where it should be. I guess just double check to make sure. I've never had an issue where I couldn't line up the LBJ assembly so maybe something's getting hung up.

 

[Xhado]

It is possible the joint popped out of the axle. Rare but still possible, preventing the knuckle from being exactly where it should be. I guess just double check to make sure. I've never had an issue where I couldn't line up the LBJ assembly so maybe something's getting hung up.

How exactly can I check this? when I pull on the axle it goes in and out maybe a cm but still feels sturdy and intact.

 

[DKFTPNYC]

How exactly can I check this? when I pull on the axle it goes in and out maybe a cm but still feels sturdy and intact.

Check the accordion looking billows on both the inner and outer. They should look exactly like that, an accordion. If one looks hyperextended, then it probably means the joint popped out. Which will not leak oil since the section that goes into the diff is still "in." If its infact popped out, all you gotta do is put it back in. If it doesn't wanna go in, just rotate the brake rotor, which will effectively rotate the axle, and it should go in.

 

[Xhado]

I FIXED IT.... I think...

Being concerned with the axle being a little too far out I started inspecting it. I spun the hub, in spun freely, then I spun it backwards and the axle contorted and sucked back into place with a releasing and maybe concerning clunk.

Now everything is perfectly lined up. Is there anything I need to check with the axle now? Could there be any damage or anything I should check before I take it on the road to the alignment shop?

 

[Xhado]

Check the accordion looking billows on both the inner and outer. They should look exactly like that, an accordion. If one looks hyperextended, then it probably means the joint popped out. Which will not leak oil since the section that goes into the diff is still "in." If its infact popped out, all you gotta do is put it back in. If it doesn't wanna go in, just rotate the brake rotor, which will effectively rotate the axle, and it should go in.

Just saw your post after I posted my last update. This is exactly what I did after I noticed driver and passanger side differences.

 

[wfo9]

I FIXED IT.... I think...

Being concerned with the axle being a little too far out I started inspecting it. I spun the hub, in spun freely, then I spun it backwards and the axle contorted and sucked back into place with a releasing and maybe concerning clunk.

Now everything is perfectly lined up. Is there anything I need to check with the axle now? Could there be any damage or anything I should check before I take it on the road to the alignment shop?

No damage.. Nothing holds the tulip (inner CV side) in place. It can just pull right out if there is no boot in place. You somehow pulled and twisted on it a bit.Odd and hard on the boots, but won't damage the CV itself.

I would recommend not removing the lower ball joint bracket if not pulling the CV. Introduces a lot of leak opportunities by over stretching the boots

Just remove the tie rod and UCA ball joint. The shock will then slip right in and out without any major problems. Might have to step down on the LCA a bit, but that is about it..

Good luck getting the KDSS bar back on. that is always fun. Many people strip the bolts, be careful and take your time.. Walk away if frustrated. Because things escalate to a new level when those things strip.

 

[DKFTPNYC]

I FIXED IT.... I think...

Being concerned with the axle being a little too far out I started inspecting it. I spun the hub, in spun freely, then I spun it backwards and the axle contorted and sucked back into place with a releasing and maybe concerning clunk.

Now everything is perfectly lined up. Is there anything I need to check with the axle now? Could there be any damage or anything I should check before I take it on the road to the alignment shop?

Glad it worked out. Did you try to drive the vehicle when you first bolted everything down with the axle not properly back in its joint? If so, then there may potentially be problems. If not, you SHOULDN'T have anything to worry about. At the end of the day, I do not know what you did and what steps you took so I don't know 100% for sure if there is anything to worry about or not. Double check the billows and make sure they didn't get damaged (cracked, split, etc).
The axle joints are made so that they slide in and out a little as it moves with the suspension, so that the axle length effectively changes as the suspension compresses/extends. Occasionally, they pop out when people get careless or whatever while servicing.

 

[Xhado]

No damage.. Nothing holds the tulip (inner CV side) in place. It can just pull right out if there is no boot in place. You somehow pulled and twisted on it a bit.Odd and hard on the boots, but won't damage the CV itself.

I would recommend not removing the lower ball joint bracket if not pulling the CV. Introduces a lot of leak opportunities by over stretching the boots

Just remove the tie rod and UCA ball joint. The shock will then slip right in and out without any major problems. Might have to step down on the LCA a bit, but that is about it..

Good luck getting the KDSS bar back on. that is always fun. Many people strip the bolts, be careful and take your time.. Walk away if frustrated. Because things escalate to a new level when those things strip.

Yes, KDSS is my next hurdle...

Glad it worked out. Did you try to drive the vehicle when you first bolted everything down with the axle not properly back in its joint? If so, then there may potentially be problems. If not, you SHOULDN'T have anything to worry about. At the end of the day, I do not know what you did and what steps you took so I don't know 100% for sure if there is anything to worry about or not. Double check the billows and make sure they didn't get damaged (cracked, split, etc).
The axle joints are made so that they slide in and out a little as it moves with the suspension, so that the axle length effectively changes as the suspension compresses/extends. Occasionally, they pop out when people get careless or whatever while servicing.

Still on blocks, need to do the rears now that I've wasted 4 hours trying to get these damn holes lined up.

 

[DKFTPNYC]

Don't worry, the rears are MUCH easier.

 

[Jeremy556]

Many people strip the bolts, be careful and take your time.. Walk away if frustrated. Because things escalate to a new level when those things strip.

I can't stress that part enough. I have removed/reattached my KDSS sway bars many, many times (35+) and it can be a 5 minute "wow that was easy" or hours of struggling against those damn things. Best way I have found is to do it with the wheels on the ground, connect passenger side, then driver's side. You should have various pin punches to align the bolt holes, large prybars, and at least one jack to manipulate the sway bar with.

Both of my LCAs have helicoils for the KDSS swaybar mount holes. Use anti-seize and don't try to use a barely started bolt to try to align the others.