front or rear locker first

tommyt4r

New member
I am assuming that getting a rear locking diff is the best way to start. But I hear/read a lot about front lockers too. Should I start with a rear locker? ARB seems to be the preferred one. Any opinions?
 
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I suggest you spend the money on something else first.

If you actually get stuck and need a rear locker then invest in one. A lot of the guys with lockers (myself included) rarely use them on moderate trail runs.
 
Most guys have rear lockers only, because that is what came stock.
Yukon Grizzly seems to be a decent aftermarket rear locker.

I would think that you would want a front locker first though.
Reasoning: Weight up front. Front end hits obstacle hits it first keeping momentum.

Someone else want to chime in.

Oh and regarding what Brian just said, it all depends on what kind of trails you prefer. I have always had open diffs. My 4runner has made it up nearly everywhere someone who is locked has. It was, in simple words, WAY more difficult. You often have to back up and try multiple times, but with the right experience and luck, you do make it up.
That said, I'm currently looking into buying a locker.
 
Like Brian and Daily stated it all depends on what type of trails you'd run. If you're puttin around and doing small trails then I wouldn't worry about either. It's nice and convenient to have them but average person with the stock rear elocker probably doesn't use it much.

To answer your question though, I think the rear first.
 
Rear first, you don't want your front axle to be carrying the load if you are off-roading because the CV's aren't as strong as the rear axles. If you were SAS'd. then maybe the front would be better, but I think if you locked only the front, you would break alot of CV's.

You might be able to be very careful not to overstress your CV's, but I think it would be much better to not push it anyway.

Do you do alot of off-roading and get stuck alot? If not, then don't bother with any locker. Better to spend that money on other improvements. You could do stuff that you will notice every day instead of the once in a blue moon that you need the locker.
 
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I agree. Rear locker should come first. But if you are running moderate trails then you can probably get by without a locker. If it wouldn't be used often, I would invest my money elsewhere.
 
I got the Yukon Grizzly automatic locker in the rear of my 2nd gen recently. I love the result. I can climb a lot of things I could not before.

Although.......If this is a daily drivier, you will want selectable lockers like the ARB selectable air locker (Yukon makes the same locker for less). Auto lockers can be rough on your tires driving on pavement.
 
Aussie Locker, detroit, yukon grizzly are all lunch box lockers correct?

Aussie and Spartan. Detroit makes a non-lunchbox still, but it looks like they're dropping the Lockright, which was their lunchbox. Grizzly is not a drop-in.

Tommy, unless you're getting stuck a lot, you don't need a locker. If you are, get the rear locker first, that's where your weight is when you're climbing an obstacle.
 
Rear locker first. With a front locker you will have a lot of resistence trying to turn. Not so much with a rear. So both lockers with selectable front or only just the rear.

You can still get stuck with lockers, so always go out with other trucks. But you may have a more enjoyable time not spinning tires too much, or have to build up more momentum to climb an obstacle. Not to mention it preserves the state of the trails. If you can afford it and you do want to spend some money making an offoad capable truck get the rear locker.

Also rock sliders are a good idea.
 
Aussie Locker, detroit, yukon grizzly are all lunch box lockers correct?

Aussie Locker, Lockright, Detroit EZ locker, Spartan Locker Are all lunch box lockers

Yukon Grizzly, Detroit Locker are Full carrier replacement lockers

Yukon Zip Locker, Arb Air locker, Eaton E locker, Auburn Ected, Ox Lockers the Selectable.




Rear first. 100%. I would only put it in if you have been getting stuck and or tired of stacking rocks. Open diffs suck.
 
Aussie Locker, Lockright, Detroit EZ locker, Spartan Locker Are all lunch box lockers

Yukon Grizzly, Detroit Locker are Full carrier replacement lockers

Yukon Zip Locker, Arb Air locker, Eaton E locker, Auburn Ected, Ox Lockers the Selectable.




Rear first. 100%. I would only put it in if you have been getting stuck and or tired of stacking rocks. Open diffs suck.

OK, since I know a little bit more, and I do mean A LITTLE, i guess my stock '97 has an open diff, right? and i'll look for a selectable rlocker brand (for the rear).

What is a lunchbox locker?

Full carrier replacement lockers are full-time, locked diffs right (and not for me)?
 
guess i don't have an open diff...a stock '97 has a limited slip diff right?....the auburn site says that i would get a limited slip and diff lock, and says that with
ARB i'd get open diff and locking diff capabilities. If I install an ARB, will I lose limited slip capability? Don't understand.
 
OK, since I know a little bit more, and I do mean A LITTLE, i guess my stock '97 has an open diff, right? and i'll look for a selectable rlocker brand (for the rear).


What is a lunchbox locker?

Full carrier replacement lockers are full-time, locked diffs right (and not for me)?

Yes you have an open diff in the rear 100%, Most def not a sock limited slip as its never been an option

Well if you want a selectable locker, which I would recommend to anyone looking who drives a lot on the street, and goes wheeling every once in awhile. or to someone who shares their truck with a GF or something. Or maybe you just like the idea.

The selectable lockers for the toyota 8" v6 diff that you have are The yukon Zip locker (air) and the arb air locker. And the OEM e locker which is possible to swap in.


Heres the deal with the rest

BOTH lunchbox lockers ANDfull carrier replacement lockers are what you call an auto locker. They do let the tires differentiate in speed while turning to some extent. This is usually torque dependent. IE. If in neutral they almost act like an open diff, but when on the gas they are fully locked up.

The difference is in how they accomplish this. A lunchbox locker re-uses the stock carrier all ready in your axle. They replace the spider gears and in some cases the spider gears and side gears (these are the gears that make it an open diff). So because of this they are inexpensive ( less than $300 ) and anyone that can turn a wrench can install it them self.

A full carrier replacement locker is exactly that. It replaces the stock carrier with a new much stronger unit. This is why they are more expensive than lunch box lockers. This new unit needs the carrier bearings pressed on and the gears to be re-setup, Mainly the backlash. So this needs to be done by a shop or someone that knows their way around a diff. Its really not hard at all. I have set up quite a few these last months. But it takes a press and some special tools. Full carrier lockers work a little more smoothly than lunch box lockers from what I have seen.

Selectable lockers are full carrier replacements But they are open and can be locked. Keep in mind these when locked are spooled (no wheel differentiation what so ever). And these too will need to be set up.

There are also Spools. Which is just a chunk of metal that the bearings and ring gear go on that replaces the carrier and all the moving parts in it. These are the strongest option. And cheapest. but since the axle shafts are 100% locked together all the time they are bad to drive on the street.

And finally there are limited slip diffs that I personally think are useless for the majority or moderate to hard wheeling. They utilize clutch packs ore helical gears in the diff to let one tire spin and proved some traction to the other. These have one HUGE flaw. They work great when both tires are firmly planted on the ground, But they need traction on both to work. If you end up hanging a tire, or in snow, or in mud, or in big rocks and both tires do not have traction it will act just as an open diff. So basically it gets up to the point you really need some traction then gives out just at the perfectly wrong time...




So hope all of that clarifies some of that for you. If you need any more info hit me up
 
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our 4runners are almost a 50/50 weight distribution over the axles. and no your runner does not have an LSD, it has an open diff. put a locker in the rear first and as stated by Mr Leary you will probably find that you do not need another one. OX does not make a locker for toyota so that is out. i personally would go with the ARB RD132
 
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