Front Passenger Hub Bearings

4thgenblake

4thgenblake

New member
Took the rig to 4WheelParts, to get a perfect alignment I need new passenger hub bearing and inner tie rods for both sides. What's a good brand? Wasn't there a member on here who makes and sells them?

Any help would be appreciated. They said they would only install the parts if it was good quality. What have you guys used? Know of any inner tie rods that are recommended?
 
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4thgenblake said:
Took the rig to 4WheelParts, to get a perfect alignment I need new passenger hub bearing and inner tie rods for both sides. What's a good brand? Wasn't there a member on here who makes and sells them?

Any help would be appreciated. They said they would only install the parts if it was good quality. What have you guys used? Know of any inner tie rods that are recommended?
Click to expand...

I've bought all OEM parts plus dorman hub and pressed them together to save a few bucks but it really wasn't worth it - here's the guy with the parts you need for bearings!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/151359-complete-front-wheel-bearing-assemblies-4th-gen-nj-$169.html

As for tie rods, probably just parts store lifetime warranties so you at least get two out of the deal. I used to like and recommend Moog stuff til the great LCA bushing and bolts debacle of 2016. Anyway their tie rods I have are holding up well.
 
blackoutt said:
I've bought all OEM parts plus dorman hub and pressed them together to save a few bucks but it really wasn't worth it - here's the guy with the parts you need for bearings!



http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-...wheel-bearing-assemblies-4th-gen-nj-$169.html



As for tie rods, probably just parts store lifetime warranties so you at least get two out of the deal. I used to like and recommend Moog stuff til the great LCA bushing and bolts debacle of 2016. Anyway their tie rods I have are holding up well.
Click to expand...



Thanks, I shot [MENTION=100129]nj636[/MENTION] a PM. And so Moog inner tie rods? Did you go through their website or Amazon or eBay?
 
blackoutt said:
I've bought all OEM parts plus dorman hub and pressed them together to save a few bucks but it really wasn't worth it - here's the guy with the parts you need for bearings!

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/sale-t4r-items/151359-complete-front-wheel-bearing-assemblies-4th-gen-nj-$169.html

As for tie rods, probably just parts store lifetime warranties so you at least get two out of the deal. I used to like and recommend Moog stuff til the great LCA bushing and bolts debacle of 2016. Anyway their tie rods I have are holding up well.
Click to expand...


I agree, i've never had an issue with the tie rod ends. LCA bushings and hardware are a different story.
 
I got mine from Rock Auto for easy return and warranty if needed purposes while still having good prices. Amazon and ebay have burned me on warranty returns before.
 
nj636 said:
Expensive for a cheap bearing they are giving you.

I use Timken bearings, OEM from Toyota bolts and o-rings along with Timken seals in my hubs.

www.jerseybuilthubs.com


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Click to expand...

Your product works out to $315 CAD for me, not including taxes and customs. And they do come with Timken bearings.

edit: Dorman updated the part number, it's now DORMAN 950001. It's $180 CAD shipped to my door.
 
Last edited:
Yes the Dorman unit uses a cheap Dura International bearing. I can build you a hub for less than $180CAD but it will not as quality as the Timken units for $234CAD. I have no control over customs or duty taxes.


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nj636 said:
Yes the Dorman unit uses a cheap Dura International bearing. I can build you a hub for less than $180CAD but it will not as quality as the Timken units for $234CAD. I have no control over customs or duty taxes.


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Click to expand...

I'll try my luck with the $180 CAD shipped-to-my-door units. With the way I run my truck, I'll be replacing them every couple years anyways. :smokin:
 
FYI: "bluepit bearings" (Andy, I think) also sells complete assemblies and uses OEM quality parts.

If you get the Moog tie rod ends, you might want to paint them first. I got some moog rear stabilizer end links. They have a coat of rust now after a little snow (and that damn salt brine). I'm going to try and sand them a bit and paint, but I wish I thought to do it right out of the box.
 
dkyleb said:
I'll try my luck with the $180 CAD shipped-to-my-door units. With the way I run my truck, I'll be replacing them every couple years anyways. :smokin:
Click to expand...

I have a pair of pre-built units from [MENTION=99491]Bumper2Bumper Auto[/MENTION] that I have had in the 4th gen for over a year or so. Even after hitting a log on the passenger side hard enough to bend the spindle and put the 4Runner out of commission for a short while the bearing ended up being fine.

It's a bit pricier, but it is a complete bolt-on unit. Where as what you have will require you to press out the old hub and press it into the new bearing without damaging it, which means finding a shop or buddy to do it for you or renting a press and fixtures.

Here's Marion's stuff if you're interested: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/bumpe...-bearing-assemblies-anywhere.html#post1474881
 
BlackWorksInc said:
I have a pair of pre-built units from [MENTION=99491]Bumper2Bumper Auto[/MENTION] that I have had in the 4th gen for over a year or so. Even after hitting a log on the passenger side hard enough to bend the spindle and put the 4Runner out of commission for a short while the bearing ended up being fine.

It's a bit pricier, but it is a complete bolt-on unit. Where as what you have will require you to press out the old hub and press it into the new bearing without damaging it, which means finding a shop or buddy to do it for you or renting a press and fixtures.

Here's Marion's stuff if you're interested: http://www.toyota-4runner.org/bumpe...-bearing-assemblies-anywhere.html#post1474881
Click to expand...

Right on man. Like I say, the Dorman ones are a full assembly and, with me being in Canada, is the most cost effective solution. I really wanted to get an assembly from Marion bumper-to-bumper, but the shipping and whatnot was astronomical.

As for longevity of the Dormans, time will tell. I'll report back at the end of summer. I do roughly 150/km a week on rough gravel roads in the summer. And I don't go slow LOL
 
dkyleb said:
Right on man. Like I say, the Dorman ones are a full assembly and, with me being in Canada, is the most cost effective solution. I really wanted to get an assembly from Marion bumper-to-bumper, but the shipping and whatnot was astronomical.

As for longevity of the Dormans, time will tell. I'll report back at the end of summer. I do roughly 150/km a week on rough gravel roads in the summer. And I don't go slow LOL
Click to expand...

You're right it is... I don't know why before when I put the part number it came up as just the bearing unit with no hub installed. How weird.
 
BlackWorksInc said:
You're right it is... I don't know why before when I put the part number it came up as just the bearing unit with no hub installed. How weird.
Click to expand...

I think they're in a P/N transition right now. Last time I ordered one, it was Dorman 4110446, but now it is Dorman 950001. I mean, even with shipping it works out to roughly $115 USD...
 
I need the front driver side bearing done, is it advisable to replace the hub too, or can mechanic tap them out and press back in?
He says he wants to replace the whole assembly, other shops say same thing.
No one as pulled and look at the assembly yet.
A friend recommends Timken, I checked Rock Auto it looks like Timken only makes it for rear.
Not sure want wrencher would think if I brought nj636 assembly for him to use? ;): Thanks ~Marlene
 
YoIdaho said:
I need the front driver side bearing done, is it advisable to replace the hub too, or can mechanic tap them out and press back in?
He says he wants to replace the whole assembly, other shops say same thing.
No one as pulled and look at the assembly yet.
A friend recommends Timken, I checked Rock Auto it looks like Timken only makes it for rear.
Not sure want wrencher would think if I brought nj636 assembly for him to use? ;): Thanks ~Marlene
Click to expand...

The hub has to be pressed out and back together if you go that route, DON'T let anyone hammer it out or you will be buying a new hub in the end anyway, but if I were you I would buy the assembly from nj636, you won't find a better quality assembly/parts for a better price, having the entire assembly makes it a 20 minutes job instead of a several hours job, so what you pay extra for the parts you more than save in labor.
 
YoIdaho said:
I need the front driver side bearing done, is it advisable to replace the hub too, or can mechanic tap them out and press back in?

He says he wants to replace the whole assembly, other shops say same thing.

No one as pulled and look at the assembly yet.

A friend recommends Timken, I checked Rock Auto it looks like Timken only makes it for rear.

Not sure want wrencher would think if I brought nj636 assembly for him to use? ;): Thanks ~Marlene
Click to expand...



They may or may not install it. If they do install it just make sure they torque the axle nut to 173~ ft/lbs. I put a reminder in the box ;)


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YoIdaho said:
I need the front driver side bearing done, is it advisable to replace the hub too, or can mechanic tap them out and press back in?
He says he wants to replace the whole assembly, other shops say same thing.
No one as pulled and look at the assembly yet.
A friend recommends Timken, I checked Rock Auto it looks like Timken only makes it for rear.
Not sure want wrencher would think if I brought nj636 assembly for him to use? ;): Thanks ~Marlene
Click to expand...

I saw a while back that Timken has been offering the assemblies, pre-made. So I bought one of them and took a look at it, disassembling it to see. I found that they use their own 4WD hubs (not surprised there) but the bearing itself is unbranded, and uses white lithium grease as a bearing lubricant. I find this to be VERY substandard in my professional opinion. The rollers on the inside are not tempered steel either. White lithium grease is a very cheap grease, and is NOT designed for the extreme temperatures that these bearing assemblies go through.

NJ and I both use the same Timken/Koyo brand of bearings that are proven over and over again.
 
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