Front/Rear Brake Install Issues

[airbur]

So typical, I start the front brake pad, rotor, and caliper replacement today and when putting it all back together the driver's side front hard brake line fitting strips.

Dealerships are closed until Monday so I'm thinking of bending my own.

What is the size hard brake line as well as fittings for the 2004 Sport V8?

From my research it looks like 3/16 line with 10mm fittings but I would think both the line and fittings are metric?

Thanks.

 

[Ed_C]

So typical, I start the front brake pad, rotor, and caliper replacement today and when putting it all back together the driver's side front hard brake line fitting strips.

Dealerships are closed until Monday so I'm thinking of bending my own.

What is the size hard brake line as well as fittings for the 2004 Sport V8?

From my research it looks like 3/16 line with 10mm fittings but I would think both the line and fittings are metric?

Thanks.

Correct, 3/16 line and the fittings are 10mm x 1.0 thread.

I used these when I replaced my lines Japanese Poly-Armour PVF Steel Brake Line 3/16 x 8 - AGS Company AGS Company

 

[TechWrench]

So typical, I start the front brake pad, rotor, and caliper replacement today and when putting it all back together the driver's side front hard brake line fitting strips.

Dealerships are closed until Monday so I'm thinking of bending my own.

What is the size hard brake line as well as fittings for the 2004 Sport V8?

From my research it looks like 3/16 line with 10mm fittings but I would think both the line and fittings are metric?

Thanks.

You can also get this line at most NAPA stores. I just finished replacing the right front line on my '03. It was rusted, and broke when removing the caliper in order to install a new/used knuckle assy., I don't have the part number on hand at the moment, but if you bring the old one in, they will match it. It comes as a straight generic stock item, but is easily bent into the correct configuration as long as you are careful to not kink it.

 

[airbur]

Thanks guys. I picked up the AGS line and a bender...worked great.

Now I have a slight grinding noise when I rotate the left front rotor. Rotor, caliper, and pads are all new. It sounds like it's touching the brake shield somewhere but I can't for the life of me figure it out. All the same parts on the right side and it works fine. I'm starting to think it is the remanufactured caliper?

Also, after I was done with the rears, I noticed a slight leak from the right side at the line connection to the caliper. The caliper is remanufactured. I've tried every combination of bolt and washers...new ones that came with the caliper as well as the old bolt and combined washers. It is still leaking. Left side with all same parts is working fine. I think it may be the caliper here also?

 

[TechWrench]

Thanks guys. I picked up the AGS line and a bender...worked great.

Now I have a slight grinding noise when I rotate the left front rotor. Rotor, caliper, and pads are all new. It sounds like it's touching the brake shield somewhere but I can't for the life of me figure it out. All the same parts on the right side and it works fine. I'm starting to think it is the remanufactured caliper?

Also, after I was done with the rears, I noticed a slight leak from the right side at the line connection to the caliper. The caliper is remanufactured. I've tried every combination of bolt and washers...new ones that came with the caliper as well as the old bolt and combined washers. It is still leaking. Left side with all same parts is working fine. I think it may be the caliper here also?

OK, as for the slight grinding noise in the front. Are you sure you got the correct parts for your vehicle? I noticed you have the Sport model, which may have the larger front brakes. If your vehicle has the larger brakes, and you put the smaller parts in, that could explain the grind. Also, it is fairly easy to bend that rear shield, especially if it is rusted. which could be the cause of the grind. As for the caliper being a reman, that shouldn't have any effect on the issue, as long as the caliper is mounted squarely on the knuckle. And, another possible cause could be rust scales on the surface of the hub, where the rotor sits. If there is rust there, it could cause the rotor to not seat properly against the hub, and not turn true. If you are not sure, remove the wheel, and use two of the lug nuts to lock the rotor to the hub, and then turn it. If the grind is constant, all the way around the revolution of the rotor, it is probably a bent splash shield. If it only makes noise in one part of the revolution, the rotor may not be turning true to the hub. That could be the rust scale issue I mentioned, or the rotor isn't machined properly.

As for the rear caliper leak, are you sure it is leaking from the connection between the fitting on the end of the brake line, where it contacts the caliper, or is it maybe coming from the crimp connection between the metal fitting and the flexible hose. If it is coming from the connection between the fitting and the caliper, there are only a few things to check. Make sure the mating surface on the caliper is smooth, with no dings or dents where the crush washer sits. The same goes for the two contact surfaces on the brake hose fitting, no dents or damage to either contact surface. Use new washers on both sides, and make sure an old washer isn't still stuck to one of the surfaces. Also make sure the ledge under the cap of the bolt, where the outer crush washer sits isn't damaged or has an old washer stuck to it. If all is good, then if tightened properly, it shouldn't leak.

 

[airbur]

OK, as for the slight grinding noise in the front. Are you sure you got the correct parts for your vehicle? I noticed you have the Sport model, which may have the larger front brakes. If your vehicle has the larger brakes, and you put the smaller parts in, that could explain the grind. Also, it is fairly easy to bend that rear shield, especially if it is rusted. which could be the cause of the grind. As for the caliper being a reman, that shouldn't have any effect on the issue, as long as the caliper is mounted squarely on the knuckle. And, another possible cause could be rust scales on the surface of the hub, where the rotor sits. If there is rust there, it could cause the rotor to not seat properly against the hub, and not turn true. If you are not sure, remove the wheel, and use two of the lug nuts to lock the rotor to the hub, and then turn it. If the grind is constant, all the way around the revolution of the rotor, it is probably a bent splash shield. If it only makes noise in one part of the revolution, the rotor may not be turning true to the hub. That could be the rust scale issue I mentioned, or the rotor isn't machined properly.

As for the rear caliper leak, are you sure it is leaking from the connection between the fitting on the end of the brake line, where it contacts the caliper, or is it maybe coming from the crimp connection between the metal fitting and the flexible hose. If it is coming from the connection between the fitting and the caliper, there are only a few things to check. Make sure the mating surface on the caliper is smooth, with no dings or dents where the crush washer sits. The same goes for the two contact surfaces on the brake hose fitting, no dents or damage to either contact surface. Use new washers on both sides, and make sure an old washer isn't still stuck to one of the surfaces. Also make sure the ledge under the cap of the bolt, where the outer crush washer sits isn't damaged or has an old washer stuck to it. If all is good, then if tightened properly, it shouldn't leak.

THAT is awesome advice. Thank you! Yea, I did research the Sport V8s brake requirements here and purchased the correctly sized parts.

I will check for rust under the rotor for the front grinding.

As for the rear leak, yea it's coming from the banjo bolt connection. I've cleaned everything multiple times and still leaking. The only thing I can think of is I had to file down the "towers" that the hard line goes through on the caliper as the remanufacturing process bent the tips over and the line wouldn't slide into them. I may have accidentally hit the machined surface with the file while doing so. I'll (once again) remove the new caliper tomorrow to check.

THANKS!

 

[airbur]

A few relevant images of the leak area....

 

[TechWrench]

THAT is awesome advice. Thank you! Yea, I did research the Sport V8s brake requirements here and purchased the correctly sized parts.

I will check for rust under the rotor for the front grinding.

As for the rear leak, yea it's coming from the banjo bolt connection. I've cleaned everything multiple times and still leaking. The only thing I can think of is I had to file down the "towers" that the hard line goes through on the caliper as the remanufacturing process bent the tips over and the line wouldn't slide into them. I may have accidentally hit the machined surface with the file while doing so. I'll (once again) remove the new caliper tomorrow to check.

THANKS!

Well, if you did accidentally hit the contact surface with a file while opening up the space between the two locating 'towers', that would explain your leak. If that is the case, your options, unfortunately, are limited. If the damage isn't too deep, you can try to get a thicker copper crush washer that is the exact ID/OD dimensions as the original washers, and hope it will fill the void in the contact surface. If that doesn't work, you will probably have to return the caliper and get a 'new' one. I would recommend against trying to fill the gap with any type of sealer or JB weld, because if it fails, it could be less than safe for you and the vehicle. Good Luck.

 

[airbur]

Well, if you did accidentally hit the contact surface with a file while opening up the space between the two locating 'towers', that would explain your leak. If that is the case, your options, unfortunately, are limited. If the damage isn't too deep, you can try to get a thicker copper crush washer that is the exact ID/OD dimensions as the original washers, and hope it will fill the void in the contact surface. If that doesn't work, you will probably have to return the caliper and get a 'new' one. I would recommend against trying to fill the gap with any type of sealer or JB weld, because if it fails, it could be less than safe for you and the vehicle. Good Luck.

Pulled off both the rear calipers as the other one started leaking a bit to. I checked the machined connection surfaces and sure enough, there are pits and scrapes. But these weren't caused by me filing...it looks like just bad units that were remanufactured.

I went back to Advance and they got 2 replacements out, one was fine, the other had the same issue but to a much lesser degree. Just swapped them back in and am waiting to go out and check for leaks again.

If these leak, I'm returning them and will try the Napa units.

 

[AuSeeker]

Pulled off both the rear calipers as the other one started leaking a bit to. I checked the machined connection surfaces and sure enough, there are pits and scrapes. But these weren't caused by me filing...it looks like just bad units that were remanufactured.

I went back to Advance and they got 2 replacements out, one was fine, the other had the same issue but to a much lesser degree. Just swapped them back in and am waiting to go out and check for leaks again.

If these leak, I'm returning them and will try the Napa units.

If you have problems with these, make sure you chack the sealing surface on next ones before you leave the parts store and if there's issues make them bring out more until you find ones that have a good surface!!

 

[airbur]

If you have problems with these, make sure you chack the sealing surface on next ones before you leave the parts store and if there's issues make them bring out more until you find ones that have a good surface!!

They appear to be working so far. I've got it all back together....tomorrow I'll troubleshoot the front left grinding noise.

 

[TechWrench]

Pulled off both the rear calipers as the other one started leaking a bit to. I checked the machined connection surfaces and sure enough, there are pits and scrapes. But these weren't caused by me filing...it looks like just bad units that were remanufactured.

I went back to Advance and they got 2 replacements out, one was fine, the other had the same issue but to a much lesser degree. Just swapped them back in and am waiting to go out and check for leaks again.

If these leak, I'm returning them and will try the Napa units.

Unfortunately, along with the promise of lower prices, is the potential for inferior merchandise. I just replaced the right side front axle on my '03 when I had to replace the suspension knuckle. I knew the inner boot was torn, so it made sense to replace the axle as long as I had it apart. Vehicle has over 287k on it, so I went with a rebuilt unit from NAPA. I have gotten rebuilt parts from them before, and had no issues with them. But, as I unwrapped the axle, to install it, I noted that the 'machined' surface on the outer end of the outer CV joint where the inner grease seal on the knuckle is supposed to ride was pretty rough. It appeared to have been badly rusted, and all they did during the 'rebuild' process was clean it with a sand blaster. It was so badly pitted, that I knew it would tear up the lip on the grease seal. I took it back to NAPA, and they agreed it wasn't right and exchanged it for another unit. I checked this one before leaving the store, and it was much better.

So the moral of the story is; Always check rebuilt components before leaving store. It may save you much aggravation and time. To be fair to NAPA, they don't rebuild these components themselves, but get them from a third party supplier. So, they are not in control of the quality of the products. Only negative feedback from customers will provide them with the information about the quality of the rebuilt components they are selling.