My 5th gen 4runner with a toyotec front suspension 3 inch lift has always pulled to the RIGHT since I got it lifted. (If I'm going 60mph and let go of the steering wheel I've done a full lane change in 4 seconds) The 4x4 shop that did the lift never could get it aligned. They told me their guy called in sick for a week, another time, he was fired, another time, their lift broke, another time their new lift was not installed etc. This has gone on for 3 years. Long story short, today I was told to measure from top of the wheel well/flair? ..... to the middle of the actual wheel. The left front side height is 23" high and the front right side height is 24". I"m pretty sure something was obviously installed wrong. Does anyone know what was installed wrong and does it make sense that the 4runner is pulling to the right? (I would think the left being lower would pull the truck to the left? but it's pulling to the high side, the right side) Thanks for any ideas. I've taken my 4runner to so many shops, wasted thousands and I would think one side being a full inch higher is basic 101 troubleshooting.
Front, Right 4runner Wheel 1 inch taller? PULLING to the right?
- Thread starter numbbrrr
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Iron duke
Member
I have a 3rd gen with a toyotech 3" lift and it pulls right and somewhat leans towards the driver's front as well. The good news is that your suspension is most likely not installed wrong. If it was there would be a lot more wrong visibly and audibly. The thing about the leaning to one side is that the front driver side most consistently has the most weight, obviously from the driver. Also, your gas tank is on the left side of the vehicle. At 23 gallons, that's almost 140 pounds on that side. Over time (a matter of years) the suspension tends to sag a bit where its been used the most. I had a 96 4runner with stock suspension did this as well as my 99 4runner with just a few year old lift kit. If you have been off-roading or have any gear, that would extintuate this lean as well. As far as the tracking, I would just get another tire shop to re-align your vehicle. I would also get them to inspect your suspension to make sure nothing is wrong with it. My word is not fact but just something to think about.
Have alignment checked at a competent shop willing to do the work right away.
Possibly and most likely (from my experience in the past), the tie rods might need some fine tuning as the passenger tie rod might be too extended, or the driver might be too pulled in.
Other factors that might cause right pull.
Brake dragging on the right side.
Uneven tire wear, tires on right said causing pull.
Road crown.
Unequal tire pressure.
Possibly and most likely (from my experience in the past), the tie rods might need some fine tuning as the passenger tie rod might be too extended, or the driver might be too pulled in.
Other factors that might cause right pull.
Brake dragging on the right side.
Uneven tire wear, tires on right said causing pull.
Road crown.
Unequal tire pressure.
Depending on the lift, a few more small things to look at:
1. Shim the driver's side with another 1/4" shim to even out the lean.
2. Take a look at the panhard bar in the back, make sure you don't have too much angle going on there. It can pull the rear end over to the side and effect the entire system.
3. Long shot, but check the installed springs and make sure they match. A higher weight spring may have made its way onto your truck by mistake.
4. Get all of your bushings checked. A worn bushing can effect the entire system as well. A bit harder to diagnose if a shop is not specifically looking for it.
Best of luck with your search for a solution. It can be frustrating (especially after 3 years!) But once you have found the culprit, it will make you love your rig again.
1. Shim the driver's side with another 1/4" shim to even out the lean.
2. Take a look at the panhard bar in the back, make sure you don't have too much angle going on there. It can pull the rear end over to the side and effect the entire system.
3. Long shot, but check the installed springs and make sure they match. A higher weight spring may have made its way onto your truck by mistake.
4. Get all of your bushings checked. A worn bushing can effect the entire system as well. A bit harder to diagnose if a shop is not specifically looking for it.
Best of luck with your search for a solution. It can be frustrating (especially after 3 years!) But once you have found the culprit, it will make you love your rig again.
BackOff
New member
Look up "driver side lean".
Very common with T4R and Tacoma.
Probably as many fixes for it as threads.
Are the toytech coils adjustable?
If so crank up that drivers side some or back off the passenger side some.
1/2" adjust gives a 1 inch lift ratio.
Something that seems to get over looked and not discussed.
The OEM coil springs, at least on my 2004 T4R, the driver side had an extra coil and is a thicker coil (diameter) factory compensation.
If that shop cant do your alignment take it to someone else.
Another common thread is "siezed cam bolts"
Makes it hard to get the alignment right if the cams are basically welded together.
Very common with T4R and Tacoma.
Probably as many fixes for it as threads.
Are the toytech coils adjustable?
If so crank up that drivers side some or back off the passenger side some.
1/2" adjust gives a 1 inch lift ratio.
Something that seems to get over looked and not discussed.
The OEM coil springs, at least on my 2004 T4R, the driver side had an extra coil and is a thicker coil (diameter) factory compensation.
If that shop cant do your alignment take it to someone else.
Another common thread is "siezed cam bolts"
Makes it hard to get the alignment right if the cams are basically welded together.
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Solved!
I went to alot of "expert" 4x4 shops for three and a half years in the Washington DC area. My car would literally change lanes going 50mph in 3 seconds. Very dangerous. The shops would take on average about $2000-$3000 and then tell me it was "fixed" I ended spending over $10k in "ideas" which never fixed it. 3 sets of new tires. new upper control arms. New upper ball joints, new bushings, new wheels, wheel alighments etc. "dragging brake calipers" new brake calipers...new brakes....it went on and on....about 8 different alignments. a body structure test to see if my truck frame was bent. I ended up going to a basic NTB store because my wheels were shaking too and I thought they had been balanced. Then a 22 year old kid showed me my lower ball joints were all chewed up. He told me that would cause wheels shaking AND was was why my car wouldn't drive straight.....FIXED IT! Just thought I'd mention it to anyone who had this problem and everyone who tried to help! On a side note during all this my strut was installed crooked at one of these expert 4x4 shops by a full inch and it's seized. I was told one inch of height difference on the right front side would not cause my truck to drive crooked either. UHUH...ok. Toytec is telling me ONE strut is $700 plus tax and shipping it will be over $800 for a single OLDER model strut... yet a pair is $850?! I found some old man emu....new ones for about $100 each....Looks like I'll probably be changing struts to old man emu. Is $800 for a single toytec strut normal? I don't need the spring, just the strut. Anyone know where to get a toytec strut for cheaper? I found a new one on Ebay for $90 same model but I don't know why ebay would be $90 and straight from toytec $800?
I went to alot of "expert" 4x4 shops for three and a half years in the Washington DC area. My car would literally change lanes going 50mph in 3 seconds. Very dangerous. The shops would take on average about $2000-$3000 and then tell me it was "fixed" I ended spending over $10k in "ideas" which never fixed it. 3 sets of new tires. new upper control arms. New upper ball joints, new bushings, new wheels, wheel alighments etc. "dragging brake calipers" new brake calipers...new brakes....it went on and on....about 8 different alignments. a body structure test to see if my truck frame was bent. I ended up going to a basic NTB store because my wheels were shaking too and I thought they had been balanced. Then a 22 year old kid showed me my lower ball joints were all chewed up. He told me that would cause wheels shaking AND was was why my car wouldn't drive straight.....FIXED IT! Just thought I'd mention it to anyone who had this problem and everyone who tried to help! On a side note during all this my strut was installed crooked at one of these expert 4x4 shops by a full inch and it's seized. I was told one inch of height difference on the right front side would not cause my truck to drive crooked either. UHUH...ok. Toytec is telling me ONE strut is $700 plus tax and shipping it will be over $800 for a single OLDER model strut... yet a pair is $850?! I found some old man emu....new ones for about $100 each....Looks like I'll probably be changing struts to old man emu. Is $800 for a single toytec strut normal? I don't need the spring, just the strut. Anyone know where to get a toytec strut for cheaper? I found a new one on Ebay for $90 same model but I don't know why ebay would be $90 and straight from toytec $800?
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Kryptocarcus
New member
Probably not the toytec lift. I have two vehicles on toytec's and they drive better than stock and sit level. Based on your op, I suspect a bad install. I am lucky and live near Denver, so I had Toytec do the install in their own shop.
