Front Shock Install - Need Help ASAP!

[WrexHAmm]

Here is the situation: I am running coils from an 05 Tundra TRD with the Tundra 5100 Billies on the second perch. Unhappy with the rake I decided to add a pair of the 1/2 inch Toytec top plate spacers to help level it out with the 890's in the rear. Reason I am not just bumping it up to the 3rd perch is because I already had the extended bolts on there from the first time I assembled them. Not wanting to disassemble them I figured this would be a usable solution.

For the life of me I can not get the lower bolt to line up. I am trying a coil compressor and the reverse bottle jack method (at the same time) with no luck! I keep maxing out the jack and honestly don't feel very safe using this method anyways. I have also disconnected the sway bar. Please see the below picture for the misalignment.

Can anybody lend some advice?
I thought I did my research but is this setup even possible?!
If anybody is really bored in Denver and wants to lend a hand just let me know.

 

[nevada]

a small pry bar, or larger screw driver under the strut, prying it up.

ive done a few of these. theyre a *****....
usually takes 2 poeple, 1 to pry, the other to get the bolt in.


edit: is the upper control arm on the bumpstops? if so, you can unbolt it at the upper balljoint, that might let it drop down a bit more.

 

[Antman]

Also- there is a small hole in the lower control arm behind that rubber bumpstop. I put a pry bar in that hole (a 2' bar) and actually sat on it to pull the lower arm down a bit. Then I used a large punch through the shock mounting holes to line it up. Here's a link with pics... Step #11 and #23
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-g...er-s-ideas-since-mid-2010-a-5.html#post754964

Good Luck!

 

[WrexHAmm]

I was trying the pry bar method and it only seemed to make it worse. Almost shifting the shock out of the way but thanks for the tip.

I originally had unbolted the upper control arm but it didn't seem to give any so I reattached the nut. Maybe I will try it again.

Thanks for the quick response Nevada.

 

[nevada]

I was trying the pry bar method and it only seemed to make it worse. Almost shifting the shock out of the way but thanks for the tip.
I originally had unbolted the upper control arm but it didn't seem to give any so I reattached the nut. Maybe I will try it again.

Thanks for the quick response Nevada.

thats also why it takes 2 people. prying the shock back in line, while you pry the lower arm down, and then to put the bolt in.

it takes two, 3 armed people to do it successfully.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Wrexhamm, I have a few ideas for you since I've fought that fight on my truck 3 times... once on the initial install, again when I went from notch 2 to 3, and again when I rotated my springs.

Each time I did it by myself (no helping hands) and without spring compressors.

First, loosen the nut on the big bolt that goes through the UCA. The UCA bushings are STATIC bushings and with the bolt tight, the rubber in the bushings is being twisted within the UCA, resulting in significant resistance to downward travel of the UCA. Once you loosen that bolt, you'll notice the suspension will fall to max droop easily.

Second, disconnect the sway bar, looks like you got that.

Third, put the shock coil assembly in place, and hand tighten the 3 nuts onto the top plate studs.

Fourth put the bottle jack between the UCA and the top of the inner fender, and start pushing the suspension down. Don't crank on it too hard, just until you feel it "stop". It will hit a point where it won't want to droop any further.

At this point, take a look @ the spindle where it surrounds the UBJ. Based on your picture, I'll bet that part of the spindle will be solidly contacting your spring. This will prevent you from getting the suspension to droop any further.

If I am correct and the spindle/coil interference is preventing further droop, then you can:

1. unbolt the 4 bolts @ the LBJ, insert the bolt through the lower eye of the shock, put a jack under the LCA and compress the shock/spring, then re-insert & tighten the 4 LBJ bolts.

2. disassemble the coil/shock and rotate the spring to eliminate the the interference. (I'd recommend this, because if you are getting coil/spindle interference, you are in for some major front end noise/clunking anyway).

3. Get ready for the fight of your life with some big crow bars and a center punch.

 

[freshley]

If you do end up getting this to work, I'd be worried about your CV joints. Just looking at the pictures you posted, they are at some extreme angles.
Also remember that using top plate spacers will double your lift (ie 1/2" will give you full inch). This is another reason you are having trouble.

 

[4-Ripcord]

If you do end up getting this to work, I'd be worried about your CV joints. Just looking at the pictures you posted, they are at some extreme angles.
Also remember that using top plate spacers will double your lift (ie 1/2" will give you full inch). This is another reason you are having trouble.

Thats the fully drooped position.. ride height is nowhere near that.

 

[opie74]

Floor jack under the lower control arm and remove the bolts holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Lower the jack till you can get the shock bolt through.

You MUST have a jack under the arm. You also MUST have jack stands under the frame.

 

[WrexHAmm]

Wrexhamm, I have a few ideas for you since I've fought that fight on my truck 3 times... once on the initial install, again when I went from notch 2 to 3, and again when I rotated my springs.

Each time I did it by myself (no helping hands) and without spring compressors.

First, loosen the nut on the big bolt that goes through the UCA. The UCA bushings are STATIC bushings and with the bolt tight, the rubber in the bushings is being twisted within the UCA, resulting in significant resistance to downward travel of the UCA. Once you loosen that bolt, you'll notice the suspension will fall to max droop easily.

Second, disconnect the sway bar, looks like you got that.

Third, put the shock coil assembly in place, and hand tighten the 3 nuts onto the top plate studs.

Fourth put the bottle jack between the UCA and the top of the inner fender, and start pushing the suspension down. Don't crank on it too hard, just until you feel it "stop". It will hit a point where it won't want to droop any further.

At this point, take a look @ the spindle where it surrounds the UBJ. Based on your picture, I'll bet that part of the spindle will be solidly contacting your spring. This will prevent you from getting the suspension to droop any further.

If I am correct and the spindle/coil interference is preventing further droop, then you can:

1. unbolt the 4 bolts @ the LBJ, insert the bolt through the lower eye of the shock, put a jack under the LCA and compress the shock/spring, then re-insert & tighten the 4 LBJ bolts.

2. disassemble the coil/shock and rotate the spring to eliminate the the interference. (I'd recommend this, because if you are getting coil/spindle interference, you are in for some major front end noise/clunking anyway).

3. Get ready for the fight of your life with some big crow bars and a center punch.

Thanks for the advice! I will attempt to use some of it but I am not sure I want to use all of it. I was really, really hoping to complete this without disassembling the front coils. If I have to go to the trouble of doing that then I might as well not use the spacers then.

If you do end up getting this to work, I'd be worried about your CV joints. Just looking at the pictures you posted, they are at some extreme angles.
Also remember that using top plate spacers will double your lift (ie 1/2" will give you full inch). This is another reason you are having trouble.

What Ripcord said. Ride angles are nowhere close to those angles shown. I also have the diff. drop installed to help minimize the angle.

Floor jack under the lower control arm and remove the bolts holding the ball joint to the knuckle. Lower the jack till you can get the shock bolt through.

You MUST have a jack under the arm. You also MUST have jack stands under the frame.

I think this will be my next step. Thank you Opie! Jack stands under the frame... check. Jack under the arm.... check. Will hit it first thing in the morning.

Last but not least. I was about 1.25 inches off from rear to front with the Tundra and 890 combo. The spacers are these:
Front Top Plate Spacer Kit - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits
I believe I might have misquoted earlier the size of 1/2 inch which they are actually 3/8 inch. I am not going to have an reverse rake with these am I? I believe I will still be about .5 inch higher in the rear and then taking in consideration for a little more settling of the 890s eventually be about level.

Also a big thanks for all of your quick replies. I very much appreciate the help.

 

[BigFishAllDay]

Thanks for the advice! I will attempt to use some of it but I am not sure I want to use all of it. I was really, really hoping to complete this without disassembling the front coils. If I have to go to the trouble of doing that then I might as well not use the spacers then.

Best of luck Senor! Keep that advice in mind though, because even if you go up a notch on the 5100's you may run into the spring/spindle interference issue.

 

[WrexHAmm]

Started to remove the LCA bolts this morning. Ran into another fun situation. Was only able to get one out before the others started to round. Now I can't even get the socket to sit properly let alone apply any torque to the bolt.

Sigh....

 

[nevada]

Started to remove the LCA bolts this morning. Ran into another fun situation. Was only able to get one out before the others started to round. Now I can't even get the socket to sit properly let alone apply any torque to the bolt.

Sigh....

make sure you're using a 6 point socket.


and, are you talking about the lower balljoint bolts?

 

[cj80cruiser]

Started to remove the LCA bolts this morning. Ran into another fun situation. Was only able to get one out before the others started to round. Now I can't even get the socket to sit properly let alone apply any torque to the bolt.

Sigh....

Sucks man! You'll have to use a smaller socket and hammer it on. Did you install your ball joints or are they the originals? If you used loctite then heat would be a good answer to the problem. Even if those bolts came out easily I'd still replace them with new to be on the safe side anyway.

 

[theizzardking]

Started to remove the LCA bolts this morning. Ran into another fun situation. Was only able to get one out before the others started to round. Now I can't even get the socket to sit properly let alone apply any torque to the bolt.

Sigh....

you got to get your jack under the lbj and jack up just a hair to get the tension off the bolts , take the jack off the uca's first, you got all of the info you need here but the process is wrong, wrong order...

sway bar off, lbj off, tie rod off, jack on uca, pry bar/punch or large screw driver and alot of swearing ....i've never disconnected any of the ca's but suppose you can if you want a bit more droop

 

[WrexHAmm]

Winner! Thank you for all who posted. I would have never been able to get it done without you. That's what makes this forum freaking awesome. I never went about removing the LCA but if made it really, really easy. Had to make a quick run to Sears to pick up some special sockets that worked awesome. They are called Grip Tite:

Finally able to get the bolt in. Just going to torque down the bolts and move onto the passenger side.

Again thank you so much! Huge help all of you!