LuckyRunnerLTD
New member
why not goto autozone have them loan you a compressor and there you have it, trouble and $$ saved.
Front shock install, no compressor method.
- Thread starter TN22Corps
- Start date
98OzarksRunner
New member
I've done it 2 or 3 times without a spring compressor. Quick, easy, safe (much safer than the time I used a parts-store compressor and about shot it through the garage wall). Here are some links:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/80789-no-need-spring-compressor.html (Read all the posts for pictures.)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/100697-anyone-tried-shock-disassembly-method.html
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/80789-no-need-spring-compressor.html (Read all the posts for pictures.)
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/100697-anyone-tried-shock-disassembly-method.html
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flyinbrick
New member
I just used this method today and I can confirm this works for OME 881 springs. I did loosen the lower control arm bolts and it did help. I was able to just push down the lower control arm with my foot and get the lower strut bolt out. Having used spring compressors before, if I had to do it again, this is what I would do - quicker and safer IMO. For anything longer, YMMV - you could probably use a pry bar to push the lower control arm further down and there are several ways to do that but I couldn't find a really good position without the bar slipping off or putting stress against the LBJ or sway bar end links.
For those like myself who insist on using a torque wrench, I was able to torque down the center nut using a crowfoot extension and a small wrench to hold the flat portion of the strut rod on top. The lower control arm bolts are 22mm. However, the tie rod was too close to the rear control arm bolt head to be able to put a socket in so I had to use an adjustable wrench and just estimate by referencing the front bolt torque by feel. If you must torque it, you'll have to use a puller to pop the tie rod end off the LBJ first. Having said that, I'll need an alignment afterwards anyway so I'll just ask the alignment tech to at least check the tightness even if he doesn't need to touch them.
For those like myself who insist on using a torque wrench, I was able to torque down the center nut using a crowfoot extension and a small wrench to hold the flat portion of the strut rod on top. The lower control arm bolts are 22mm. However, the tie rod was too close to the rear control arm bolt head to be able to put a socket in so I had to use an adjustable wrench and just estimate by referencing the front bolt torque by feel. If you must torque it, you'll have to use a puller to pop the tie rod end off the LBJ first. Having said that, I'll need an alignment afterwards anyway so I'll just ask the alignment tech to at least check the tightness even if he doesn't need to touch them.
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