Front sway bar links - Do I really need them?

[OCMike]

So, I'm trying to decide if I really need to replace one of the front sway bar links, or if I should just remove them all together. What are the pros/cons if I just take them both off? I've been driving for a few weeks with one of them disconnected. Must have lost the nut and bushing out on the trail somewhere. I can't get in there and remove it due to my crappy tools, and I don't want to pay a mechanic to either replace it or remove the one last bolt.

I'm running stock suspension right now, so I'm thinking it's going to be a little bouncy in the front. If I keep the rear links connected, should that help enough with the roll? Right now, the front feels a little like it's floating with just one of the links connected. Also, will removing them do anything to my alignment? The parts guy said it will, but I'm not sure I want to believe him. Also, if I can run without the links up front, that'll save me $30 I can put towards something else on the truck.

 

[Redneck92]

It won't mess with your alginment, the way it drives now is about how it will drive with both side disconnected. You can run without it but it's not really recommended for street use.

 

[OCMike]

It won't mess with your alginment, the way it drives now is about how it will drive with both side disconnected. You can run without it but it's not really recommended for street use.

I knew that guy was talking out his a$$. Anyway, I think I found my answer in another thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/72816-sway-bars.html

 

[Redneck92]

I knew that guy was talking out his a$$. Anyway, I think I found my answer in another thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/classic-t4rs/72816-sway-bars.html

Yeah word of advice don't listen to what the people behind the counter say, half the time they think they know what they are talking about and they really don't. I've looked at some of them before and asked "Are you F***** Reta****" It was funny as hell but they didn't think so.

 

[bigbsvo]

Parts guys

Yeah word of advice don't listen to what the people behind the counter say, half the time they think they know what they are talking about and they really don't. I've looked at some of them before and asked "Are you F***** Reta****" It was funny as hell but they didn't think so.

Yes, most of them think they know more then they do, some are intelligent though and know what they are talking about, but very few of them do.

I own a repair shop in Texas, when I have to call the parts store I always hate it when someone new answers the phone, or someone who I don't like answers the phone. It makes my job much easier when the right person answers.
Lucky for me, O'Reilly's set up what's called First Call online for shops, I just log onto my account and I can search their entire inventory for what I need. I can even enter in the Vin number to make sure I'm getting the right part. I can also view a picture of the part to make sure it's correct. Saves me the hassle of having to call and explain what it is I'm looking for.

Now, as far as the sway bars go, I would buy replacement links and hook it back up the way it's supposed to be. It's not wise to run a T4R without the links hooked up, especially if your driving it on the road, there are many horror stories of these vehicles rolling over and a sway bar is designed to connect each lower control arm to each other to control body sway to reduce the chance of rolling the vehicle.
Now if your turning it into an off road only vehicle then remove the bar so you can get more travel out of your suspension to climb over obstacles. As long as your trailering your rig to the place your taking it off road at.

 

[OCMike]

Ok. I'm going to take everyone's advice and get the link replaced. I'm going to hate taking it over to my mechanic and pay him $60 or so just because I can't get the top nut loose. I've tried spraying the heck out of it with WD40 with no luck. Should I try some other loosening spray 1st?

Also, I have another problem, but after searching around on here, it might be a normal sound. When I;m driving slowly in our parking garage and turn into my spot, I crank the wheel and make a hard left turn. The right wheel starts making noises like metal knuckles cracking. It doesn't do it every time though. And it only happens when I crank the steering wheel until it can't turn anymore. It doesn't do this on the left wheel if I make a hard right turn either.

 

[Awz]

Don't know about the wheel noise. I get it because my big nobbly tires rub against sway bar when I do that. As for loosening the nut. PB blaster has loosened far more rusty nuts for me then WD40 ever has.

Good luck (and for the record I recommend sway bar links too )

 

[purevenom1]

That noise is prob the steering stop rubbing up and down on the control arm stop. There is suppose to be a rubber cap on the stopper and is prob missing or damaged. Mine does it all the time.

 

[OCMike]

That noise is prob the steering stop rubbing up and down on the control arm stop. There is suppose to be a rubber cap on the stopper and is prob missing or damaged. Mine does it all the time.

Does yours make a couple clicks then pops a few times? I'm going to listen more closely next time so I can describe the noise a little better hopefully.

 

[OCMike]

Is this what you're talking about? The flat part on the right and the bolt on the wheel?

 

[purevenom1]

Yes that is it. Although I may have found another problem on mine also. The lower control arm bushings are worn out. So it will pop sometimes when you hit the brakes hard or turning sharply. There is also the screeching sound coming when the wheel is at full turn and you go over a slight raise you will hear the piece scraping.