Unner
New member
I have a Shrockworks Gas Tank skid plate for sale. Please read the description below carefully, I am fully describing this gas tank skid plate so you know what you are getting.
IMG_20170210_143502976 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
IMG_20170210_143458615 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
IMG_20170210_143555106 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Driver side frame mount:
IMG_20170210_143510972 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Mounting points on the cross member infront of the gas tank. One of these holes needs to be drilled through the crossmember I believe. No big deal:
IMG_20170210_143513772 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Mounting point for bracket on rear driver side of skid plate:
IMG_20170210_143518769 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
I installed this skid plate on my truck when I had stock suspension and had no issues. When I lifted the truck I began to have interference with the driveshaft and this skid plate. I was running LC coils and the stock panhard bar with no drop or anything different than OEM. Shrockworks "redesigned" their gas tank skid plate and sent me a new one that eliminated my contact issues after I did a little work with an angle grinder.
This skid plate that is for sale would be a good candidate for someone who has some tools and a little time to tinker with the skid plate. Apparently some people have contact issues with the rear driveshaft and skid plate and some don't. I did, but I guess it depends on what suspension you are running and what you've done to your rear panhard bar, but I can't say for sure if you will have issues or not.
You will need to either fabricate your own bracket for the mount on the outside of the gas tank (nearest the rear control arm mount) or contact Shrockworks and ask them if you can buy one. It's nothing fancy, just a simple 1/4" steel bracket with a few holes in it. I can provide you with a bracket for the mount by the driveshaft, but it was not bent to the correct angle by Shrockworks. You can probably bend this to the correct angle. I also imagine if you call and tell them you picked a gas tank skid up second hand but didn't get the brackets with it they would sell you just the brackets. You will also need the hardware to mount the skid, 3 bolts go into nuts that are already on the truck. The rest of the hardware is carriage bolts and nuts of varying sizes. You can get all the hardware at any Lowes or Homedepot.
Here is the bracket I will ship with the skid plate.
IMG_20170210_143735664 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
IMG_20170210_143739620 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
The spots I had rubbing at can be seen in the pictures below. Right on the vertical weld here, and on the leftmost bolt in this picture (No bolt in the picture, but the hole where the bolt would go is seen). This bolt is the one on the engine side of the truck. If you can get the skid plate to shift over just 1/4-1/2" to the driver side or so I think you would eliminate all rubbing issues.
IMG_20170210_143532102 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
This is what the mounting points look like on my 4Runner.
Rear driver side mount by driver side control arm mount:
IMG_20170210_143607665 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Frame mount on driver side:
IMG_20170210_143619272 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Mount on driveshaft side of truck:
IMG_20170210_143631724 by Unner Unner, on Flickr
Now for the good about the skid plate! It has been professionally powder coated semi gloss black by my local powder coater (Coating the entire set of skids ran $140) so this is probably a $30 value or so. This is a BEEFY skid plate. If is 3/16" steel and very HEAVY (40+lbs). The stock skid plates bend easily, this one does not. This skid plate is a great candidate if you want to tinker with something to get it to work and don't mind working with it. Considering the only two aftermarket skid plates for 3rd gens run $320 and $400 shipped this can be a great savings to you. This skid plate looks good too!
If you can weld my suggestion is to move the driveshaft mount over 1/2" or so and weld the mount on so you don't have to worry about the bolts sticking out. Why Shrockworks still doesn't do this is beyond me. If you can't weld I recommend elongating the holes in the brackets so you can push the skid more to the driver side and then grind the side by the driveshaft down with an angle grinder as much as you can.
If you have any other questions or need more information send me a PM and I will be happy to help you.
If you are interested in the skid plate and are not local to me PM me for a shipping quote. I have no idea what shipping will run to you specifically because it is so heavy. Rough guesses tell me that shipping to Seattle (farthest place I could think of) would be $85, shipping to Dallas would be $40. I am located in Huntsville, AL and those are just two large cities I picked as a reference. Local pickup would be preferred, but I will ship if you are a serious buyer.
Thanks for looking!
IMG_20170210_143502976 by Unner Unner, on FlickrIMG_20170210_143458615 by Unner Unner, on FlickrIMG_20170210_143555106 by Unner Unner, on FlickrDriver side frame mount:
IMG_20170210_143510972 by Unner Unner, on FlickrMounting points on the cross member infront of the gas tank. One of these holes needs to be drilled through the crossmember I believe. No big deal:
IMG_20170210_143513772 by Unner Unner, on FlickrMounting point for bracket on rear driver side of skid plate:
IMG_20170210_143518769 by Unner Unner, on FlickrI installed this skid plate on my truck when I had stock suspension and had no issues. When I lifted the truck I began to have interference with the driveshaft and this skid plate. I was running LC coils and the stock panhard bar with no drop or anything different than OEM. Shrockworks "redesigned" their gas tank skid plate and sent me a new one that eliminated my contact issues after I did a little work with an angle grinder.
This skid plate that is for sale would be a good candidate for someone who has some tools and a little time to tinker with the skid plate. Apparently some people have contact issues with the rear driveshaft and skid plate and some don't. I did, but I guess it depends on what suspension you are running and what you've done to your rear panhard bar, but I can't say for sure if you will have issues or not.
You will need to either fabricate your own bracket for the mount on the outside of the gas tank (nearest the rear control arm mount) or contact Shrockworks and ask them if you can buy one. It's nothing fancy, just a simple 1/4" steel bracket with a few holes in it. I can provide you with a bracket for the mount by the driveshaft, but it was not bent to the correct angle by Shrockworks. You can probably bend this to the correct angle. I also imagine if you call and tell them you picked a gas tank skid up second hand but didn't get the brackets with it they would sell you just the brackets. You will also need the hardware to mount the skid, 3 bolts go into nuts that are already on the truck. The rest of the hardware is carriage bolts and nuts of varying sizes. You can get all the hardware at any Lowes or Homedepot.
Here is the bracket I will ship with the skid plate.
IMG_20170210_143735664 by Unner Unner, on FlickrIMG_20170210_143739620 by Unner Unner, on FlickrThe spots I had rubbing at can be seen in the pictures below. Right on the vertical weld here, and on the leftmost bolt in this picture (No bolt in the picture, but the hole where the bolt would go is seen). This bolt is the one on the engine side of the truck. If you can get the skid plate to shift over just 1/4-1/2" to the driver side or so I think you would eliminate all rubbing issues.
IMG_20170210_143532102 by Unner Unner, on FlickrThis is what the mounting points look like on my 4Runner.
Rear driver side mount by driver side control arm mount:
IMG_20170210_143607665 by Unner Unner, on FlickrFrame mount on driver side:
IMG_20170210_143619272 by Unner Unner, on FlickrMount on driveshaft side of truck:
IMG_20170210_143631724 by Unner Unner, on FlickrNow for the good about the skid plate! It has been professionally powder coated semi gloss black by my local powder coater (Coating the entire set of skids ran $140) so this is probably a $30 value or so. This is a BEEFY skid plate. If is 3/16" steel and very HEAVY (40+lbs). The stock skid plates bend easily, this one does not. This skid plate is a great candidate if you want to tinker with something to get it to work and don't mind working with it. Considering the only two aftermarket skid plates for 3rd gens run $320 and $400 shipped this can be a great savings to you. This skid plate looks good too!
If you can weld my suggestion is to move the driveshaft mount over 1/2" or so and weld the mount on so you don't have to worry about the bolts sticking out. Why Shrockworks still doesn't do this is beyond me. If you can't weld I recommend elongating the holes in the brackets so you can push the skid more to the driver side and then grind the side by the driveshaft down with an angle grinder as much as you can.
If you have any other questions or need more information send me a PM and I will be happy to help you.
If you are interested in the skid plate and are not local to me PM me for a shipping quote. I have no idea what shipping will run to you specifically because it is so heavy. Rough guesses tell me that shipping to Seattle (farthest place I could think of) would be $85, shipping to Dallas would be $40. I am located in Huntsville, AL and those are just two large cities I picked as a reference. Local pickup would be preferred, but I will ship if you are a serious buyer.
Thanks for looking!
