Fuel Frustrations - 1993 4Runner

I have a 1993 Toyota 4Runner with the V6 3VZ-E engine that I bought from some friends about six years ago. I've never had any problems with this truck, until now. This truck originally came from Florida, I know that there was a recall on it to replace the head gaskets (they've been replaced twice), and I'm the third owner. This truck was in excellent condition, as it was from down south, and it had, and still has very low miles for being a '93 - it currently has around 170,000 miles on it.

About a month ago, I noticed that there was a slight hesitation after taking off from a stop sign or traffic signal. My husband has replaced the fuel filter but it didn't solve the problem.

Then a couple of weeks ago, I was driving about 55-60 mph when I noticed that my speed was dropping off. When I tried to accelerate, the gas pedal was at first unresponsive, then with it floored it would finally begin to accelerate again very quickly (as if the gas pedal were stuck). I backed off once I reached 55-60 mph and it was fine for a bit, then it would start the cycle all over again.

It has been throwing a code 25 indicating a weak fuel mixture problem. My husband thought it was a vacuum problem and started searching for broken/cracked hoses - he found two, one he replaced and the other was the big hose that attaches to the throttle body that he band-aided temporarily with electrical tape until he gets the part. He also noticed a small crack in the distributor cap and that some of the little nubs had been worn down, so he replaced the distributor cap and rotor. Then he checked the spark plugs and learned that one of the wires was torn under the boot, so he replaced all the spark plugs and wires, as it had been about 4 years since the last time he had replaced them. None of this has fixed the problem - we're both getting very FRUSTRATED!!! I should also note, that I was standing behind the truck yesterday when my husband pulled out of the driveway and I noticed a very strong gas smell.

Oh, I should probably mention that my check engine light had been on for over a year, however, when it first came on he ran a code check that told him to replace the fuel filter. He bought the filter but never put it on (don't ask me why) until I recently started having the acceleration problem. What is really strange is that just before the recent problems surfaced my CEL went off. Seems like it was shortly after the CEL went off that I started having this problem. Why would it have ran fine when the CEL was on, and now that the CEL if off it runs like crap? We almost wish the CEL would come back on because that's when it ran fine...totally confusing me and my husband.

My husband has the original repair manual for this truck and knows that the problem that still exists could be caused by a number of things. We're hoping that someone out there has had the same problem and can point us in the right direction before he continues the process of elimination to find the right fix.

Any advice anyone can give us would be GREATLY appreciated!!! Thank you!
 
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UPDATE - My husband just noticed that there was a crack in the EGR vacuum modulator that he temporarily band-aided with some super glue. He just took it for a test drive and said that it ran fine, no bogging or unresponsive gas pedal. Could the crack in the EGR vacuum modulator possibly have been the problem? We'll drive it for a longer distance later this afternoon...fingers crossed!
 
The 3.0 is VERY fussy about spark plugs. Use ONLY NGK or Denso OEM plugs!!

The engine also doesn't like any vacuum leaks. Replace any components you find that are cracked, or will soon be cracking due to age.

Trust me on this - I've learned the hard (ready $$$) way.
 
Thank you Riff Raff, I'll check to see what brand plugs he put in. Do you think it's possible that the crack in the EGR vacuum could have been the problem? We'll be taking it for another test run this evening...sure hope this is it, as it's been baffling my husband for over a week now! Thanks again for sharing your 4Runner knowledge with us, it's much appreciated!
 
Thank you Riff Raff, I'll check to see what brand plugs he put in. Do you think it's possible that the crack in the EGR vacuum could have been the problem? We'll be taking it for another test run this evening...sure hope this is it, as it's been baffling my husband for over a week now! Thanks again for sharing your 4Runner knowledge with us, it's much appreciated!

Any component that has failed (cracked EGR), or has a leak (cracked or split hoses) can cause you all kinds of problems.

The Toyota 4Runner Dorman Air Cleaner Intake Hose is especially problematic. If there is the slightest air leak your engine can just stop dead. (I know this from experience).

toyota_4runner_1993_air_cleaner_intake_hose_oem_1788165020.jpg


My advice - fix everything that is bad, and work your way from there.

:bluejump:
 
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Hey, Riff Raff..Since we last spoke we've learned MUCH more that I'm hoping will help you to help us!!!

After gluing the EGR vacuum modulator, my husband attempted to take it for a test drive and only made it about a half mile when it totally DIED!!! He tried to start it three times, to no avail. So we towed it home and then he started checking for spark from the coil. He had spark at the coil, so he pulled a plug wire to check for spark and it started on only 5 cylinders. So he shut it off and put the plug wire back on and then started it again to see if he could make it quit. After 20 minutes of running, it DID quit. So then he checked for spark again, and there was no spark at the coil. So he just got done replacing the coil, took it for a drive, and the problem STILL EXISTS!!!!

So now he's thinking that it may be the EGR valve, since it seems to happen once it heats up. He also replaced the tail pipe about 6 weeks ago, just thought this should be mentioned because I read something on one of these forums about an oxygen sensor located just beyond the catalytic converter. My husband doesn't think this has anything to do with it, but I just didn't want to leave anything out, just in case.

Anxiously awaiting a reply! Thank you Riff Raff!
 
One additional thought... I'm wondering if it could be the Dorman Air Cleaner Intake Hose, as I mentioned earlier that he did find a crack on this that he temporarily tried to fix with electrical tape. He inquired about that part this morning when he picked up the new coil and learned that this is a part that has to be ordered by Toyota. Could his "quick fix" with the electrical tape be the problem? Thank you again, and again, and again for your assistance!!!

Denise
 
If you have no spark @ the coil...you need to check for good power & grounds. I doubt that that the intake hose has anything to do with that. You probably still need to replace it but not going to cause loss of spark.
 
Once he replaced the coil today, he took it for a drive only about 1/4 down the road and the gas pedal was still doing the non-responsive thing. Now he thinks that it might be the igniter, as he said that it was really hot...the frustration continues!!!! Any thoughts? Thanks again!
 
it sounds as though you are on the right track with an ignition issue, however it seems at this point you are just guessing and throwing parts at it - this gets expensive quick not to mention frustrating

with no spark, most people think the coil is bad and replace it to no avail, sometimes coils do fail but rarely are they the cause of a no spark issue, they are simple and durable electronic items

more likely the culprit is a sensor or trigger device which tells the coil to fire or a voltage supply/ground issue - get yourself a factory service manual from the stickies at the top of the froum page (download from a separate website) and have aread on the engine ignition info - there is a troubleshooting guide which will lead you in the right direction
 
My husband has the Haynes Toyota 4Runner Repair Manual for the years 1979-95, published 1995. He has thoroughly read through everything on the engine ignition, and has visited the troubleshooting guide many, many times. Tonight he pulled out the igniter or ignition module, that is located right next to the coil. This is his next suspect as he said it is extremely hot after running for 15 minutes, so hot that you can't touch it. What are you thoughts on this.
 
I just realized that a couple of other people jumped in on this forum to offer their advice...THANK YOU! I'm new to this site and just assumed that I was still talking to Riff Raff.

I should also mention that my husband checked into getting a new igniter/ignition module...to get it here in Michigan at Advanced Auto they wanted $170.00 for a new one, don't know the brand name...so after checking the internet we found one in Georgia for $65.00 that is the Denso brand. Why such a difference in price? Thanks again, everyone!
 
Go for the Denso!

Double check all your grounds. Remove them, sand them down and apply dielectric grease to them before recoonecting. Pay special attention to the battery posts!

With old vehicles, this is a big problem most of the time!
 
My husband has the Haynes Toyota 4Runner Repair Manual for the years 1979-95, published 1995.

the problem with haynes, clymer, seloc, etc...manuals is that they are published by third parties who may or may not have like they clain to have, completely disassembled the vehicle and measured everything - doubtful

not to mention your manual covers 1979-1995?? 16 years worth of vehicles, do you know how many changes happened in those years?? more than can be printed on 200 pages

your best bet is to get the factory service manual for yur vehicle, see here:

Toyota Tacoma 4Runner/ FJ Cruiser FSM Page

this has over 700 pages dedicated to YOUR specific vehicle, along with great explainations and troubleshooting guides - btw, feeling that a component is hot is NOT troubleshooting, that component although hot to the touch may actually normally run that hot
 
Sorry - I've been without internet since my last post. Thunderstorms here in WV fried a junction box, and they just now repaired the damage.

What's the latest?

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