Is there a calibration for the fuel gauge on a 4th gen? On my original fuel sending unit, the gauge would show exactly Full when full. At 2 years old, this failed and the new one I got would only go to 7/8 or so. I assumed they bent it on the install. Now the second one failed and the replacement also only goes to 7/8. Any way to calibrate this to show full?
Fuel gauge calibration on 4th gen?
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S p a r k y
New member
Fill it all the way up, remove the cluster, pull needle off and set to full. That's my thought!
I can't recall at the moment the resistance value of the sending unit when the fuel tank is full. If this was me, I'd open up the little access panel and see if you can manipulate the little arm on the sender. One way should make the fuel gauge needle go way passed full and the opposite way should show Empty. At least this way you'll know if your gauge is working well or not. If the gauge is working fine, then the arm may need to be re-bent. I don't know if you'll be able to bend the arm with this tiny opening to work with however.
You can't get access to the float arm without dropping the tank, which I already did - actually twice in the last 3 weeks since my wife's also needed a new sending unit. I can test the resistance next time I fill up, though the connector is a pain to pull off. I did test the new sending unit before installing and it matched what I read in another thread somewhere.
BTW, the biggest problem I had on both jobs was removing the breather hose "quick connect". I refuse to call it a "quick disconnect" as it took probably 30 minutes the first time and still 15-20 minutes the second time when I actually knew how it was supposed to work. I never found a good way to pop it off and ended up gently prying up the locking tabs with a small screwdriver - risking breaking it. On the second job I removed the breather hose where it hooks into the chassis as opposed to the top of the tank which is virtually inaccessible. It also needs a bit of lube on the O-ring when reinstalling.
BTW, the biggest problem I had on both jobs was removing the breather hose "quick connect". I refuse to call it a "quick disconnect" as it took probably 30 minutes the first time and still 15-20 minutes the second time when I actually knew how it was supposed to work. I never found a good way to pop it off and ended up gently prying up the locking tabs with a small screwdriver - risking breaking it. On the second job I removed the breather hose where it hooks into the chassis as opposed to the top of the tank which is virtually inaccessible. It also needs a bit of lube on the O-ring when reinstalling.
i agree with you assessment of that "quick clip", it's a royal PITA to disconnect. When it comes time to do this work on my Runner, I'm going to cut a rectangular hole on the floor. Dropping the fuel tank is plain stupid. My landcruiser has a larger access hole for the fuel pump that is way more useful, not sure why this one is undersized.
I was definitely annoyed that I had to drop the tank when the fuel pump should be serviceable through the access hole, but it seems like a frame rail is preventing the hole from being large enough. The plastic retainer ring might also be difficult to remove and reinstall. I welded up a tool that looked similar to the Toyota SST. Through the access hole you'd need an extra long tool. The first vehicle (2WD) took me 4 hours including making the SST. The second vehicle (AWD) took 3 hours including 30 minutes trying to siphon 5 gallons out of the tank to lighten it for reinstall.
One other observation...the V8 AWD version is actually a little easier than the V6 2WD version because the drive shafts are in slightly different positions. The 2WD's drive shaft blocks a bolt on the fuel tank protector. I finally got it out using a 1/4" drive socket with a long extension. With 3/8" and a wobble extension, I couldn't get the socket completely on the bolt.
One other observation...the V8 AWD version is actually a little easier than the V6 2WD version because the drive shafts are in slightly different positions. The 2WD's drive shaft blocks a bolt on the fuel tank protector. I finally got it out using a 1/4" drive socket with a long extension. With 3/8" and a wobble extension, I couldn't get the socket completely on the bolt.
BlackWorksInc
New member
There is a way to calibrate the level sensor in the instrument cluster. It's intended to be done when a new unit is installed. I'm not sure if it will fix your issue, but it's worth a shot. I'll see if I can find it in TIS and post it for you later tonight.
Oneluv13T4R
New member
This would be would be great info since I just ordered a new fuel pump assy, and will be doing the same job.
BlackWorksInc
New member
Sorry, I spaced out last night.
Here's the pdf for replacing the cluster and calibrating the level sensor.
View attachment W0__40001_-1.pdf
Here's the pdf for replacing the cluster and calibrating the level sensor.
View attachment W0__40001_-1.pdf
Oneluv13T4R
New member
Worked for me thanks again black working..much appreciated as always
BlackWorksInc
New member
It might not... It's mainly so the vehicle can show correct fuel level when it's at various angles (i.e. uphill, downhill, ect.) if my memory serves me right.
It was a long shot as that's the only "calibration" I could think of for the fuel system.
Out of curiosity, did you check the connectors for corrosion and voltage drop? perhaps there's some resistance in the line somewhere not letting the signal go up/down correctly?
AuSeeker
Elite Member
I'm just guessing here but I would think that would be the odometer reset button, it's use for several other reset functions if I recall correctly.
Bluesky 07
Senior Member
There’s a reset button on the info panel just above the buttons to set the clock. Doesn’t change anything about the perpetually inaccurate MPG readouts (always significantly higher than reality) but it’s there.
I reset the trip odometer at every fill-up. Since my MPG rarely drops below 16 in normal driving, I use that x 23 (tank capacity rounded down) to establish an absolute “comfortable” range of 368 miles. I usually refuel at 340 pr so.
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NCrunner2012
New member
I would kill for 360 miles per tank. 230-240 for me. I have a short commute and mostly back roads, no highway.
Spyder2020
New member
I experienced this issue after having a lot of work done to my 06 V8 and assumed it was due to the battery and fuel systems being disconnected for an extended period. Ran out of gas twice before I realized what was going on. Recalibrated and now I am a whole lot closer to accurate but still off a bit, perhaps due to my lift/level kit. Does anybody know how I could compensate for it so my gauge is accurate or even just forgiving. Do I need to do the procedure nose down or nose up to increase or decrease perceived fuel level? I've thought about just putting a level on a stock t4r running board and then trying to find a spot to match it with my suspension
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