Fuel Pump?

J

JHILDE

Junior Member
My girlfriend was driving home when she said it felt like the engine sputtered and later died. She pulled to the side of the road and was not able to restart it. I got there and it turns over but seems like it isn't getting fuel. It still has fuel in the tank and the trip mileage isn't even close to what it would be if it was empty.

Got it home and checked the EFI fuse (good) and you can feel the EFI relay click when you remove it with the key on. Other than cracking the line at the fuel filter is there a way to verify of the pump is moving fuel. I can't hear the pump make any noise but I don't recall ever hearing it in the past.

From reading here it seems that the pumps do not go out very often but still do go out. Where should I start? Yesterday I drove it 175 miles for a trip and all was fine. Today she went about 112 miles (out of a 116 round trip...) when it died and didn't have any problems until it died.

1997 3.4L SR5 2wd 372,7xx miles factory pump
 
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JHILDE said:
My girlfriend was driving home when she said it felt like the engine sputtered and later died. She pulled to the side of the road and was not able to restart it. I got there and it turns over but seems like it isn't getting fuel. It still has fuel in the tank and the trip mileage isn't even close to what it would be if it was empty.

Got it home and checked the EFI fuse (good) and you can feel the EFI relay click when you remove it with the key on. Other than cracking the line at the fuel filter is there a way to verify of the pump is moving fuel. I can't hear the pump make any noise but I don't recall ever hearing it in the past.

From reading here it seems that the pumps do not go out very often but still do go out. Where should I start? Yesterday I drove it 175 miles for a trip and all was fine. Today she went about 112 miles (out of a 116 round trip...) when it died and didn't have any problems until it died.

1997 3.4L SR5 2wd 372,7xx miles factory pump
Click to expand...

I've had a few fuel pump failures on different vehicles including my 4runner. On each failure I could smack the gas tank above the skid plate on the driver side above the rear tire while someone cranks. If it fires up you know it's the pump. Sounds crazy but this has worked on my wife's expedition, mother in law blazer, my 4runner, multiple dsm's and even a few stranded people I've met.

If that don't work pull the fuel line at the rail crank for a good amount and see if fuel is flowing.

Lastly pull fuel pump and test wire it to battery to see if it spins. If it does check voltage at the fuel pump wiring.
 
JHILDE said:
Can you check the voltage at the pump through the port under the seat?
Click to expand...

Yes I believe you could. Should be around 10v I believe at crank? You could also tap the top of housing which might bring the pump alive enough to start her up. I drove 200 miles coming back from Grand Canyon in the rain stopping every 10 miles or so to smack the tank as it would die. Then realized could have popped the cover and had my kids keep hitting it while we drive. Lol
 
Our local Oriely's will loan out tools at no charge if you leave a deposit. If you have one close go snag a fuel pressure gauge. The hard part would be trying to replicate the problem. You might be able to hold onto it for a few days if you talk to someone there.
 
Have you ruled out timing belt? How?

Have you ruled out igniter or other spark issue?

To check pump, under the rear seat,on top of the pump port is Plug F10 leading to the fuel pump. The pump gets 12V+ on the blue/orange wire on Pin 4 and ground on Pin 5 on the white/black wire. It will receive voltage on the blue/orange wire only while cranking or if the Crank Position Sensor tells the ECU the crank is turning.

So first check if voltage is being sent. Then apply battery positive to Pin 4 and ground to Pin 5 and see if you can hear the pump.

Page 3 of the below explains more and gives the resistance spec. It's from 2002 but page 3 is the same. What is different is pump in 2002 runs with key on, not just at crank.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sf5vzfe/fuepum/ovi.pdf

...assuming you've ruled out timing belt.
 
Last edited:
TheDurk said:
To check pump, under the rear seat,on top of the pump port is Plug F10 leading to the fuel pump. The pump gets 12V+ on the blue/orange wire on Pin 4 and ground on Pin 5 on the white/black wire. It will receive voltage on the blue/orange wire only while cranking or if the Crank Position Sensor tells the ECU the crank is turning.

So first check if voltage is being sent. Then apply battery positive to Pin 4 and ground to Pin 5 and see if you can hear the pump.
Click to expand...

You're the smartest man I've never met.
 
TheDurk said:
Have you ruled out timing belt? How?

Have you ruled out igniter or other spark issue?

To check pump, under the rear seat,on top of the pump port is Plug F10 leading to the fuel pump. The pump gets 12V+ on the blue/orange wire on Pin 4 and ground on Pin 5 on the white/black wire. It will receive voltage on the blue/orange wire only while cranking or if the Crank Position Sensor tells the ECU the crank is turning.

So first check if voltage is being sent. Then apply battery positive to Pin 4 and ground to Pin 5 and see if you can hear the pump.

Page 3 of the below explains more and gives the resistance spec. It's from 2002 but page 3 is the same. What is different is pump in 2002 runs with key on, not just at crank.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sf5vzfe/fuepum/ovi.pdf

...assuming you've ruled out timing belt.
Click to expand...

Timing belt has less than 100k on it. When I went back to wait on the tow truck I tried to start it and it fired for less than a second and then died.

While you were typing I was searching more found out about the 4 and 5 pin. It didn't have voltage with the key on so I surmised that it must need a crank signal or a signal that the engine was actually running. Had my GF crank it while I checked the voltage and got 14.5 volts. I guess she had cranked it enough before she called me that the battery was down some so I had it jumped to my Tahoe just to make sure that it was going to get at least 12v. My Tahoe is a police package and will idle up/put out more voltage when the it senses that the battery is low. I'm assuming the 14v was what ever the battery was at.

With that done, the wind chill at 18f, and having to work on it outside.... Out came the dead blow hammer. Used the handle to bang on the tank via the hole in the seat and nothing. A few taps on the side of the tank and it fired right up... Guess it's time for a fuel pump.

Toyota part number 23221-46010
"Local" Toyota dealer $329
Jim White Toyota online $222

O'Reilly Import Direct Pump $112
 
JHILDE said:
. Guess it's time for a fuel pump.

Toyota part number 23221-46010
"Local" Toyota dealer $329
Jim White Toyota online $222

O'Reilly Import Direct Pump $112
Click to expand...

OEM Denso for $85 on Amazon, includes in-tank filter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00274XAEK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Exact same as Toyota but without the red box.

But you'll want this, too:

https://www.amazon.com/Denso-954-0019-Fuel-Pump-Tank/dp/B001FJIQVU/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001FJIQVU&pd_rd_r=FCB46SSW8B0ABMSBT24W&pd_rd_w=G5zQj&pd_rd_wg=2rOtv&psc=1&refRID=FCB46SSW8B0ABMSBT24W

I installed both in mine this summer as PM. Have fun dropping the tank.
 
Last edited:
TheDurk said:
Have you ruled out timing belt? How?

Have you ruled out igniter or other spark issue?

To check pump, under the rear seat,on top of the pump port is Plug F10 leading to the fuel pump. The pump gets 12V+ on the blue/orange wire on Pin 4 and ground on Pin 5 on the white/black wire. It will receive voltage on the blue/orange wire only while cranking or if the Crank Position Sensor tells the ECU the crank is turning.

So first check if voltage is being sent. Then apply battery positive to Pin 4 and ground to Pin 5 and see if you can hear the pump.

Page 3 of the below explains more and gives the resistance spec. It's from 2002 but page 3 is the same. What is different is pump in 2002 runs with key on, not just at crank.

http://tacoma.site40.net/4Runner_96-02_Repair&Wiring/techinfo.toyota.com/ileaf/02toyrm/02toypdf/02rmsour/2002/024runne/sf5vzfe/fuepum/ovi.pdf

...assuming you've ruled out timing belt.
Click to expand...

Last person that called me to diagnose his fuel pump had a timing belt gone. Head and pistons also gone!

Most fuel pumps lose voltage at the pump when cranking due to the wiring. But now that I think about it, voltage drop to around 10v is usually at WOT not crank like I said.
 
Funny thing about the timing belt. I had a massive cooling system failure, top of the radiator blew off, couldn't get all the air out of the system. Turned out the water pump had seized but it wouldn't get hot at idle without the rad cap. I knew the WP was timing belt driven so I pulled the cover back a little and saw that the timing belt was actually moving and still in one piece. Few more attempts to get the air out without luck and finally pulled it apart and saw that the WP pulley was blue from the heat of the belt rubbing across while it was seized. I was shocked. We got it around 80,000 miles and that was at 267,000 miles. I believe that it was the original.
 
JHILDE said:
Funny thing about the timing belt. I had a massive cooling system failure, top of the radiator blew off, couldn't get all the air out of the system. Turned out the water pump had seized but it wouldn't get hot at idle without the rad cap. I knew the WP was timing belt driven so I pulled the cover back a little and saw that the timing belt was actually moving and still in one piece. Few more attempts to get the air out without luck and finally pulled it apart and saw that the WP pulley was blue from the heat of the belt rubbing across while it was seized. I was shocked. We got it around 80,000 miles and that was at 267,000 miles. I believe that it was the original.
Click to expand...

Sorry but that's somewhat your fault ;)

If you got the rig at 80k, you were due for TB/WP/etc at 100k :)
 
thegipper said:
Piston, meet valve.....

Been there, done that...
Click to expand...

NTM he kept cranking it for days trying to diagnose it. I get there, pull fuel line, crank it and I heard the motor lock up. I was like thats bad. Pulled timing belt cover to find the oil pump seized and timing belt ribs all sheared off. Timing belt still intact!!

We always upgraded to kevlar timing belts. Never heard of one failing. Wonder if anyone sells one for our motors.
 
I never broke the timing belt on my 95 talon Tsi but I did blow a head gasket.

My 89 VW jetta gli 16v bad the same thing happen to the belt. The ribs on the belt failed and it skipped timing and bent a bunch of valves. The really shity part was I had a new timing belt kit in the trunk......#facepalm

Sent from my SM-N910V using Tapatalk
 
TheDurk said:
OEM Denso for $85 on Amazon, includes in-tank filter.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00274XAEK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Exact same as Toyota but without the red box.

But you'll want this, too:

https://www.amazon.com/Denso-954-0019-Fuel-Pump-Tank/dp/B001FJIQVU/ref=pd_sim_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001FJIQVU&pd_rd_r=FCB46SSW8B0ABMSBT24W&pd_rd_w=G5zQj&pd_rd_wg=2rOtv&psc=1&refRID=FCB46SSW8B0ABMSBT24W

I installed both in mine this summer as PM. Have fun dropping the tank.
Click to expand...

Is there anything else I need or should watch out for? Just pull the connector via the hole under the seat, drop the skid plate, drop the tank?

Do I need the cushion under the pump, it says that it's not included.
 
amalik said:
Sorry but that's somewhat your fault ;)

If you got the rig at 80k, you were due for TB/WP/etc at 100k :)
Click to expand...

True but in my defense my girlfriend bought it and we didn't get together until later. It took a bit for her to see me wrench on my own stuff before she would trust me with her Yota. Lol
 
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