Fumoto Drain Valve Mod

Snesley Wipes

New member
Fumoto Drain Valve Mod Mod *Pics*

Hey all, I finally decided to grab a Fumoto valve because I am sick of oil drain pans! However, when I received it in the mail, I wasn't thrilled about that long threaded stem that screws in the oil pan in your car. I have seen other posts saying because of the length of the stem, it may leave ~10-20ml of oil in the pan...that's not ok with me because I have OCD and like every drip of oil out of my pan when I change it.
Having said that, I decided to mod the valve. I took a Dremel 454 bit to the top of the threaded part of the valve and just sliced a channel down it. I left ~ 2mm from the bottom of my cut to the top of the teflon plug gasket that you get from the dealer. I would assume this is about the thickness of the pan and would allow all of the oil to drain out.
Fumoto1.jpg~original

Fumoto2.jpg~original

Fumoto3.jpg~original

Just thought I would share my experience in case any of you guys are interested.
Snes
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Nice. Looking at that I wonder if simply drilling a hole in it would work.

I think a hole or two would be equally efficacious. I forgot to mention to blow out and rinse out the metal shavings before opening and closing your valve again. The shavings could potentially scrape the seals on the inside.
Snes
 
i would also use some PTFE paste on it since you have cut out some threads possibly allowing it to leak. Goop it up good with some paste and u should be fine, let us know if it leaks. Did you have to run it down a die?
 
Did it screw in after that?

I have not changed my oil yet... another 3K and im there.

i would also use some PTFE paste on it since you have cut out some threads possibly allowing it to leak. Goop it up good with some paste and u should be fine, let us know if it leaks. Did you have to run it down a die?

I am predicting my cut will be about even with the thickness of the pan. Regardless if you leave the plug un-modded, cut off, or channeled like mine, the threads on the lower portion of the valve will have contact with the threads on the oil pan so there should not be any leaks. I also did not run it down a die...I actually just used a bolt of similar size.

Snes
 
Why didn't you just cut it off at the desired thickness/length? You said you had a bolt on to clean up the threads. I would think cutting would be easier and would alow the last bit of oil to drain quicker.
 
Why didn't you just cut it off at the desired thickness/length? You said you had a bolt on to clean up the threads. I would think cutting would be easier and would alow the last bit of oil to drain quicker.

I would imagine the rate and amount of oil drained would be similar. I just felt more comfortable with the extra threads present incase the valve came loose for some odd reason.
 
I was thinking the same thing....:wow2:

OK judging from the pictures it looks like the threads are butchered and frayed and looks way worse than it actually is. The camera really exaggerates the cut. However, in hand and right in front of your face the threads are actually clean and do not have any protrusions around the edges. As i mentioned earlier, the valve spins smoothly and easily into the female bolt no problems.
 
*update*

OK I could not wait for another 3k to change the oil so I went ahead and swapped the drain plugs. The fumoto screwed in nice and easy. No leaks, have the nipple on just in case. Will update in another 3k...I will drain completely with the switch and then unscrew the valve to see if any residual oil left behind. Can't wait for no mess!
Snes
 
*Update*

I apologize for the late update guys. Oil change after installation. I let my oil drain at least 15 minutes, unscrewed valve and found NO leakage except for a couple of drips from the oil stuck to the threads of the oil pan, not in the oil pan. My cut + washer thickness is pretty much inline with the thickness of the pan so there were no suprises. The nipple I used came from an IV bag from a hospital. Its a plastic/rubber type material and fits tight and snug.

On a side note, regarding the oil filter debacle with the V8's, my method of changing it with no headache is: purchase cheap aluminum pie pans from local supermarket, grab about 4 or 5 paper towels and lay them flat in the pie pan, turn front wheels all the way to the left, wedge the pie pan with the paper towels between the skid plate (topside), and the engine compartment from the drivers side wheel well, then unscrew oil filter from the engine bay by reaching your arm straight down the engine bay just to the left of the battery, finagle the filter rightside up with your hand and pull it straight out. I get just a few drips coming from the filter area that fall directly into the piepan/paper towel setup. When I reinstall, I usually wipe the filter area with another paper towel to ensure no oil is stuck to the area outside of the filter/screw area. Lastly, slide the piepan/papertowel contraption out the same way you got it in. It will bend and such but any oil from the filter is absorbed in the papertowel portion so you should not have any mess.

Sorry for the "offtopic" addition...

Snes
 
Hey all, I finally decided to grab a Fumoto valve because I am sick of oil drain pans! However, when I received it in the mail, I wasn't thrilled about that long threaded stem that screws in the oil pan in your car. I have seen other posts saying because of the length of the stem, it may leave ~10-20ml of oil in the pan...that's not ok with me because I have OCD and like every drip of oil out of my pan when I change it.
Having said that, I decided to mod the valve. I took a Dremel 454 bit to the top of the threaded part of the valve and just sliced a channel down it. I left ~ 2mm from the bottom of my cut to the top of the teflon plug gasket that you get from the dealer. I would assume this is about the thickness of the pan and would allow all of the oil to drain out.
Snes

Awesome idea with the cut out. Thanks for looking out for us that have OCD!
 
Would you need to cut that much? Wouldn't that just be sitting in the threading of the pan itself? Or does the 4runner not need an adapter so thats why it would stick up inside the pan?
 
I decided not to cut mine. When I went to install it i took a piece of bent wire and used it to measure the depth. With that measurement the uncut piece didnt protrude into the oil pan past the threads. So It didn't look like it would do anything to relieve it.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,307
Messages
3,554,050
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top