General questions

T

TheUltimateBohab

New member
I decided it makes sense to make a general questions thread so when i have a single quick question i dont have to create a whole new thread. I figure it will help keep clutter down to a min.... Anybody feel free to ask questions

Can somebody post a link to removing xreas write up cant find one to save my life i know theres one on here found it in the past but no luck this time.... Used search mutiple times....
 
Register to hide this ad
Fairly simple. you just rip all out with the caveat you probably want to lift your truck to release the pressure and avoid splilling oil all over the place.
 
check out "that titanium 4runner" member, he has a xreas delete pink on his profile... or do a search for xreas delete or removal. or google/youtube search for it, there are lots of threads & vids on how to do it.

the basics are, unhook each shock at the one way check valve, about 10-12" away from the connection on the shock. then remove the distribution blocks on the frame & remove all the remaining lines. the lines can stay if you dont care about it, but the main thing is to dosconnect at the check valves, with all 4 wheels off the ground. the rest is just removing the shocks themselves.

i just did this on my 08 sport & it was pretty simple, hardest aprt was the rear shock top bolt, wouldnt budge due to the flex in the shock/bushings, so i just cut it off with a sawzall.
 
firebirdguy said:
check out "that titanium 4runner" member, he has a xreas delete pink on his profile... or do a search for xreas delete or removal. or google/youtube search for it, there are lots of threads & vids on how to do it.

the basics are, unhook each shock at the one way check valve, about 10-12" away from the connection on the shock. then remove the distribution blocks on the frame & remove all the remaining lines. the lines can stay if you dont care about it, but the main thing is to dosconnect at the check valves, with all 4 wheels off the ground. the rest is just removing the shocks themselves.

i just did this on my 08 sport & it was pretty simple, hardest aprt was the rear shock top bolt, wouldnt budge due to the flex in the shock/bushings, so i just cut it off with a sawzall.
Click to expand...

Lol I appreciate the mention but I dont have the link, I think I know who you are talking about though. Ill try to find him and the link
 
firebirdguy said:
check out "that titanium 4runner" member, he has a xreas delete pink on his profile... or do a search for xreas delete or removal. or google/youtube search for it, there are lots of threads & vids on how to do it.

the basics are, unhook each shock at the one way check valve, about 10-12" away from the connection on the shock. then remove the distribution blocks on the frame & remove all the remaining lines. the lines can stay if you dont care about it, but the main thing is to dosconnect at the check valves, with all 4 wheels off the ground. the rest is just removing the shocks themselves.

i just did this on my 08 sport & it was pretty simple, hardest aprt was the rear shock top bolt, wouldnt budge due to the flex in the shock/bushings, so i just cut it off with a sawzall.
Click to expand...

LMK if you have any questions, though there may be a delay in the response due to some family circumstances.
 
Hey thanks a lot for all the replies fellas I'm finally putting my suspension system on tomorrow I'm super excited I've been waiting since I seen the runner advertised to put this on!!
 
firebirdguy said:
what parts are you using?
Click to expand...

I got Bilstein 5100 adjustables with the Moog front Springs with a 1/2 in wulf spacer I never heard a wulf brand but I figured it's a half inch thick piece of metal how can you go wrong.... and freedom off-road 2in lifted rear coil springs also red polyurethane bushings from energy suspension for all my strut components and my stabilizer bar now I've dedicated myself to all red bushings so now I have to put all red underneath!! But oh the red look sexy on the silver strut!!

It took me forever to find the rear springs I didn't really have the money for the old man emu and the moogs have horrible flash rust reviews the freedom didn't have any reviews at all but I took a shot in the dark and ordered them they look pretty nice and they were packaged really well but I don't have them on yet I'll let you know how they are....

I also have some reviews I was going to put on here for the Eastwood Rust encapsulator ( which very well may be the best stuff on Earth!!) and these freedom Springs I got I just haven't got around to it yet....
 
My strut to lower control arm bolts were pretty rusted so I bought new ones at the hardware store because the auto parts store didn't carry them and I don't want to wait for them to be shipped the hardest they had was 8.8 will that be safe? The auto parts stores that had to be 10.9 but they didn't have 10.9....
 
Well considering I got whole thing apart already I'm just going to use the 8.8 and if they end up being unsafe I'll just take them back out and put in stronger ones I just won't do any off roading until you guys let me know if I'm making a mistake....
 
TheUltimateBohab said:
Well considering I got whole thing apart already I'm just going to use the 8.8 and if they end up being unsafe I'll just take them back out and put in stronger ones I just won't do any off roading until you guys let me know if I'm making a mistake....
Click to expand...

8.8 should be just fine if I were to guess.

The metric equivalent of Grade 5.
 
Inv4drZm said:
8.8 should be just fine if I were to guess.

The metric equivalent of Grade 5.
Click to expand...

AWESOME!! that makes me feel better i kind of figured as much it said hardened steel and when I looked it up it said that it's good for up to a hundred twenty thousand PSI before deforming which seems ridiculously high but that's what the website said I looked at....
 
sounds like a nice setup. i considered the bilsteins but am on a pretty tight budget & dont do or care about serious off roading, so the kyb's were the next best option & ride great & provide some front lift as well. if i want a little more front lift i will check out the wulf 1/2" spacers.

the eastwood rust encapsulator stuff is basically the same as POR15 but a little cheaper price. if you use it be sure to only apply to rusted or properly treated bare metal... its not designed to be applied over existing paint or the factory coating, it will work like that as a paint but is awfully expensive to use as just a paint. i suggest applying over rusted/bare metal, then use a good quality paint if you want to recoat existing paint or factory coatings.

& if your factory bolts are just surface rusty like mine were, you can just wire wheel them clean & use some antiseize for protection, if they arent pitted they are stronger than 8.8... but im sure 8.8 would be fine if you dont abuse it. grade 5 is middle grade for bolts, grade 8 are the hardest ones probably closer to the 10.9 that they should be.

& just a nit pick- but the fronts are not struts, they are coil over shocks. ;)
 
Last edited:
firebirdguy said:
sounds like a nice setup. i considered the bilsteins but am on a pretty tight budget & dont do or care about serious off roading, so the kyb's were the next best option & ride great & provide some front lift as well. if i want a little more front lift i will check out the wulf 1/2" spacers.

the eastwood rust encapsulator stuff is basically the same as POR15 but a little cheaper price. if you use it be sure to only apply to rusted or properly treated bare metal... its not designed to be applied over existing paint or the factory coating, it will work like that as a paint but is awfully expensive to use as just a paint. i suggest applying over rusted/bare metal, then use a good quality paint if you want to recoat existing paint or factory coatings.

& if your factory bolts are just surface rusty like mine were, you can just wire wheel them clean & use some antiseize for protection, if they arent pitted they are stronger than 8.8... but im sure 8.8 would be fine if you dont abuse it. grade 5 is middle grade for bolts, grade 8 are the hardest ones probably closer to the 10.9 that they should be.

& just a nit pick- but the fronts are not struts, they are coil over shocks. ;)
Click to expand...

That's what makes Eastwood The Rock so much it doesn't matter what you paint over I painted it right over painted frame and obviously the surface rust at the welds and it adhered just fine the encapsulator is the one you want the converter is the one that has to go over just rust I spent a long time researching these shits before I bought one and that's the one I decided on trust me it rocks absolutely love the stuff but it does have to be warm I tried to get the spots behind my struts last night it's about 30 already outside and the stuff didn't dry correctly....

I only paid about $27 for three of the spacers ( when I opened the package they were so tightly wrapped I didn't realize there was two in there so I got a hold of the company and they sent me another one free) pretty reasonably priced and they get the job done they're coated and like I said before I can't justify paying $75 or more for just small pieces of flat half inch thick metal.... on Amazon I paid $344 for all four of the Belsteins.... the front coils I got on RockAuto for $60 and the freedoms were a little more pricey at $107 for the rear.... I haven't put them on yet I'm in the process of it as we speak but they definitely look good and considering how thick the coating is I don't think they'll rust like the Moog rears but if they do I'll definitely post on here about it....

Yeah my bolts in the front weren't great when I went to take them off the nut was fine but the actual bolt head was stripping pretty bad I used 8.8 on my wife's Lexus for the strut bolts and haven't had any issues but obviously that's a car I'm not going to be going off road...

Oh yeah you're right I mean shocks LOL.... :embarassed:
 
So I got another random question does anybody else take way more back and dirt roads when they're in their Runner? I do all the time even though I know I'm wasting gas and time it just feels more proper in the runner to explore different back routes home rather than always take the highway....

When I originally posted this thread it was in the process of doing my suspension job after I finished I installed bigger tires 275 70 18 Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT (they are AWESOME!!) it looks so Beastie now just mean after I get my grill guard it's going to really Set It Off!! SOOO SEXY!!

To my serious misfortune the 275s cut down my fuel mileage about 5 MPG from almost 25 to 20.5-21.8 and rubbed bad on the fender liners which was about a 10-minute fix I just unscrewed them pushed them back drilled new holes and bolted them with washers.... that wasn't an issue but an issue I am having if I turn too sharp like full lock the tires hit on the upper control arms it's worse in reverse but still completely driveable I just have to kind of be careful. I had hoped that the 275s would fit a little less snug considering I read all kinds of guys putting 285 but I suppose that was with different uppers...

Anyway my question is can I take a BFH and a heavy-duty punch and Bend the spot where it's rubbing in a little bit without causing structural damage or safety concerns? It's only rubbing in a really small spot and it wouldn't have to be bent very far but I haven't messed with it because I didn't want to cause any issues plus I'm sure it's pretty hardened steel.... in the future I'll probably just get new uppers but for the time being it feels like way too much winter outside to want to mess with it.

any thoughts?
 
2008 SR5 4x2 V6

I want to change out the spark plugs which are NGK iradium and are at 89k.

I decided on going with Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper spark plugs but noticed the pre-gap is .044.
The manufacturer recommendation for 2008 SR5 4x2 V6 is .043.
Should these .044 pre-gap plugs be adjusted to .043?

Thanks
 
cali2008 said:
2008 SR5 4x2 V6

I want to change out the spark plugs which are NGK iradium and are at 89k.

I decided on going with Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper spark plugs but noticed the pre-gap is .044.
The manufacturer recommendation for 2008 SR5 4x2 V6 is .043.
Should these .044 pre-gap plugs be adjusted to .043?

Thanks
Click to expand...

You can regap them if you want too, but that tiny bit of difference won't make much if any difference if at all and won't do any damage, it's only 1/1000th of an inch too big.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 254 (members: 0, guests: 254)

Forum statistics

Threads
278,306
Messages
3,554,045
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Share this page

Trending content

Back
Top