General questions

[cali2008]

You can regap them if you want too, but that tiny bit of difference won't make much if any difference if at all and won't do any damage, it's only 1/1000th of an inch too big.

I just checked them and the pre gap is .039 so I'm going to keep them at that.

Denso specifically states not to use antisieze on the plugs. I would presume Denso wouldn't state wrong info about oem plugs but others in the forum say to use it.

Antisieze or not on OEM Denso K20HR-U11?

 

[TheUltimateBohab]

2008 SR5 4x2 V6

I want to change out the spark plugs which are NGK iradium and are at 89k.

I decided on going with Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper spark plugs but noticed the pre-gap is .044.
The manufacturer recommendation for 2008 SR5 4x2 V6 is .043.
Should these .044 pre-gap plugs be adjusted to .043?

Thanks

One thing I'm kind of curious about is why would you go from iridium or one of the higher quality plugs back down to Copper? The only way I can figure is the price....

I wouldn't sweat the Gap too much I've owned like 50 vehicles in my life and worked on everyone I know not once in my life have I ever gapped a spark plug from what it comes at. and I've never once had a problem or decrease in fuel mileage I also always use anti seize with denso's or anything really that I take out that's also never caused me any issues....

 

[cali2008]

One thing I'm kind of curious about is why would you go from iridium or one of the higher quality plugs back down to Copper? The only way I can figure is the price....

I wouldn't sweat the Gap too much I've owned like 50 vehicles in my life and worked on everyone I know not once in my life have I ever gapped a spark plug from what it comes at. and I've never once had a problem or decrease in fuel mileage I also always use anti seize with denso's or anything really that I take out that's also never caused me any issues....

The NGKs are at 89k. I recently just purchased this 4runner and wanted to put in original oem plugs to see if throttle response is better. Also during hard acceleration I get occasional sulfer smell coming in from back window. Just passed smog so I don't think it's the cat.

I won't be putting many miles on it per year so it will be many years before spark plug change is needed.

I'm also still undecided on if I will use antisieze because it messes with torque adjustment and Denso says not to use it. If I did use antisieze I would tighten by hand as I am a little worried about the aluminum heads.

If by chance I don't like the copper denso, Ill replace them with ngk iradium plugs. Not a money thing.

It's just everyone in the forums has different opinions and I'm cautious about that.

 

[rdruss]

So I got another random question does anybody else take way more back and dirt roads when they're in their Runner? I do all the time even though I know I'm wasting gas and time it just feels more proper in the runner to explore different back routes home rather than always take the highway....

When I originally posted this thread it was in the process of doing my suspension job after I finished I installed bigger tires 275 70 18 Cooper Discoverer AT3 XLT (they are AWESOME!!) it looks so Beastie now just mean after I get my grill guard it's going to really Set It Off!! SOOO SEXY!!

To my serious misfortune the 275s cut down my fuel mileage about 5 MPG from almost 25 to 20.5-21.8 and rubbed bad on the fender liners which was about a 10-minute fix I just unscrewed them pushed them back drilled new holes and bolted them with washers.... that wasn't an issue but an issue I am having if I turn too sharp like full lock the tires hit on the upper control arms it's worse in reverse but still completely driveable I just have to kind of be careful. I had hoped that the 275s would fit a little less snug considering I read all kinds of guys putting 285 but I suppose that was with different uppers...

Anyway my question is can I take a BFH and a heavy-duty punch and Bend the spot where it's rubbing in a little bit without causing structural damage or safety concerns? It's only rubbing in a really small spot and it wouldn't have to be bent very far but I haven't messed with it because I didn't want to cause any issues plus I'm sure it's pretty hardened steel.... in the future I'll probably just get new uppers but for the time being it feels like way too much winter outside to want to mess with it.

any thoughts?

Don't think I would want to hammer too much on my UCA, but taking a grinding wheel or even buzzing a small chunk out of it, if it's just on the outside edge of UCA might be OK. Seeing a picture of rub area would help.

 

[TheUltimateBohab]

The NGKs are at 89k. I recently just purchased this 4runner and wanted to put in original oem plugs to see if throttle response is better. Also during hard acceleration I get occasional sulfer smell coming in from back window. Just passed smog so I don't think it's the cat.

I won't be putting many miles on it per year so it will be many years before spark plug change is needed.

I'm also still undecided on if I will use antisieze because it messes with torque adjustment and Denso says not to use it. If I did use antisieze I would tighten by hand as I am a little worried about the aluminum heads.

If by chance I don't like the copper denso, Ill replace them with ngk iradium plugs. Not a money thing.

It's just everyone in the forums has different opinions and I'm cautious about that.

I put these plugs in my Runner and they absolutely Rock the starter doesn't even barely turn before it's running

2008 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Spark Plug | RockAuto

The very bottom ones the NGK ruthenium or whatever also run premium will help with your throttle response problem when I first bought it I had a very small Miss at highway speeds I put in a thing of Chevron Techron with a premium tank and it stopped the Miss dead I also changed out my spark plugs with the ones I posted and it made a lot of difference the dealership I bought it from had put two different kinds of plugs in both copper and those bastards were so worn out at 116000 miles that I don't know how it ran at all like jokishly terrible I figured they had to have been used when they put them in.....

But yeah if you haven't already bought your plugs and put them in try those bottom ones I think it's worth the extra few dollars

 

[cali2008]

I put these plugs in my Runner and they absolutely Rock the starter doesn't even barely turn before it's running

2008 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Spark Plug | RockAuto

The very bottom ones the NGK ruthenium or whatever also run premium will help with your throttle response problem when I first bought it I had a very small Miss at highway speeds I put in a thing of Chevron Techron with a premium tank and it stopped the Miss dead I also changed out my spark plugs with the ones I posted and it made a lot of difference the dealership I bought it from had put two different kinds of plugs in both copper and those bastards were so worn out at 116000 miles that I don't know how it ran at all like jokishly terrible I figured they had to have been used when they put them in.....

But yeah if you haven't already bought your plugs and put them in try those bottom ones I think it's worth the extra few dollars

I already got the oem copper denso plugs.
Once finger tight I will 1/4 turn them and be done with it. Just need to weed out the forum talk on the correct antisieze to use. Thanks for chatting and giving your input!

 

[cali2008]

:yield::yield::yield::yield::boink::yield::yield:

I put these plugs in my Runner and they absolutely Rock the starter doesn't even barely turn before it's running

2008 TOYOTA 4RUNNER 4.0L V6 Spark Plug | RockAuto

The very bottom ones the NGK ruthenium or whatever also run premium will help with your throttle response problem when I first bought it I had a very small Miss at highway speeds I put in a thing of Chevron Techron with a premium tank and it stopped the Miss dead I also changed out my spark plugs with the ones I posted and it made a lot of difference the dealership I bought it from had put two different kinds of plugs in both copper and those bastards were so worn out at 116000 miles that I don't know how it ran at all like jokishly terrible I figured they had to have been used when they put them in.....

But yeah if you haven't already bought your plugs and put them in try those bottom ones I think it's worth the extra few dollars

Just changed my plugs to Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper. It runs way better. Throttle response is better, feels like a dream.
I did notice some oil on one plug and a bit in the well. I presume it needs gasket change. I would love to do it myself, but without a garage and a lot of research I think I'm stuck letting my mechanic fix it.

 

[AuSeeker]

:yield::yield::yield::yield::boink::yield::yield:

Just changed my plugs to Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper. It runs way better. Throttle response is better, feels like a dream.
I did notice some oil on one plug and a bit in the well. I presume it needs gasket change. I would love to do it myself, but without a garage and a lot of research I think I'm stuck letting my mechanic fix it.

Yes you need the spark plugs tube gasket replaced which will require the valve cover to be removed so you might as well do both valve covers while you at it, since the other cover gaskets would be in the same condition.

 

[firebirdguy]

:yield::yield::yield::yield::boink::yield::yield:

Just changed my plugs to Denso K20HR-U11 oem copper. It runs way better. Throttle response is better, feels like a dream.
I did notice some oil on one plug and a bit in the well. I presume it needs gasket change. I would love to do it myself, but without a garage and a lot of research I think I'm stuck letting my mechanic fix it.

just wanted to reply to how new plugs (of any type) will usually make a noticeable difference... its the same for almost any new part that has anything to do with the way an engine runs or the car drives, you are replacing a old worn out part, so the new part makes a big difference bringing the engine back to how it should run. so new plugs replacing worn out ones will make you think they are better than what they replaced when in reality they are just getting back to stock specs. same for the guy that used the high $$ kryptonite plugs above, he would have likely noticed 99% of the improvements from OEM copper plugs too because what was replaced was so worn out.

same goes for tires for example, everyone raves about how good their brand of tire is, but the vast majority of people changing to new tires had very worn out tires that road like crap, & many of them are crappy oem tires to begin with or a cheap replacement a previous owner used... so any decent new tire will seem like its the best tire in the world!

just keep it in perspective, when you replace an old/bad/worn out part, even a oem new part will make a huge improvement. the v6 engine will see very little benefit using high dollar plugs over the oem plugs, aside from maybe life span & even then oem coppers can go to 75k+ & look & function fine. if toyota felt the v6 needed special plugs they would have used them like they did in the v8 with irridiums.

 

[cali2008]

Yes you need the spark plugs tube gasket replaced which will require the valve cover to be removed so you might as well do both valve covers while you at it, since the other cover gaskets would be in the same condition.

Any threads for someone who has never done open heart surgery before? :sadwave: I don't have a garage to work in either, just outside under a carport.

 

[AuSeeker]

Any threads for someone who has never done open heart surgery before? :sadwave: I don't have a garage to work in either, just outside under a carport.

A carport should be fine for doing this job and you have the basic tools, not really all that hard as long as you pay attention to what you're doing, since you have never done this depth of work on an engine before I would suggest taking photos as you go so you can see how it looked before taking things apart, organize all the parts as you take them off, have ziplock baggies for small parts, nuts and bolts, label the baggies if need be, have plenty of grease rags/shop towels, a few pair of medium duty latex or mechanic's gloves will help to keep your hands mostly clean, I also like to have a table or cart or similar to put things on so they're aren't on the ground or vehicle, etc., etc.

I found 2 topics, one is very well written with a parts list, list of tools needed, etc. and has a lot of photos...but the photos are from Photobucket and since Photobucket has started being a pain in the a$$ and charging a ton of money to host photos all the photos are blurred out, the second topic has a few photos but not many showing all the steps and the write up is not all that great, but the photos are clear and in focus, so using both topics may help you do the job, but if I were you I would search YouTube as well and there may very well be few videos to help as well.

Here's links to the topics, the first one is the well written topic but out of focused photos.

https://www.toyota-4runner.org/4th-...eplacement.html?highlight=Valve+cover+gaskets

4.0L V6 Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

 

[cali2008]

Thank you AUSeeker.
When are ya comin over?! :couch2:

 

[AuSeeker]

Thank you AUSeeker.
When are ya comin over?! :couch2:

The drive from South Carolina will take me around 3 to 4 days, so let's say Saturday.:car:

 

[cali2008]

Now thats what I'm talkin about! See ya then. arty:

 

[Jpilot]

All great info, thanks guys/gals.

 

[TheUltimateBohab]

Any threads for someone who has never done open heart surgery before? :sadwave: I don't have a garage to work in either, just outside under a carport.

Hey you're still doing better than me I don't even have a carport I have a driveway that's dirt and I still do everything but if you want to pay a guy I would just recommend the dealership I had them do my valve covers on my 3rd gen before I became an adult and build the confidence to do it myself and they charged me $295 for both sides so it's not terribly expensive and it will get done correctly I figure if I was you I would just go that route if you don't eventually you'll kill your coils from all the oil never happened on my Runner because Runners are tanks but it definitely happened on all of my BMWs valve cover would go coils would burn out

 

[TheUltimateBohab]

Okay so I got a new question I want a grille guard horribly bad I've been searching around for a place to buy one I don't have a shitload of money I was looking at real truck they had a black horse for $355 shipped I see since I looked last time the price went up to 400 does anyone know of a place that has a reasonably priced full grille guard that's around that price range?

Also has anybody used black horse? Are they garbage? I figured it's just steel tubing so it should not really matter but I don't want one that's going to be solid rust right away...