Getting ahead of rust

wrpsuite

New member
Regarding my O2 sport which lives in Maryland with 210,000 miles. Three or four years ago I used fluid film on the underneath and frame which seems to be working fine. I’ve recently noticed on the left side of the truck inside the wheel well under the rocker and inside the door frame, some rust while the other side is perfectly clean. I don’t know if this was related to the sunroof drain issue I had a few years ago where water was coming into the cab, but that has since been resolved. I guess my question is any idea on why just decide to get ahead of it I do plan on keeping this truck as long as possible.
4500f781896727ee1543cf987a13d1c1.jpg

202a8a6cc1cd9d96828a1240a6998b4e.jpg

8738b7de09abc20ddd5ef01c8df84a8b.jpg

16713ded986a8af17f27e8fa7dab43dc.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Register to hide this ad
If you're not going to wash the salt off of the truck in the winter you're fighting a losing battle. From your pics a few spots are already too far gone to only treat with rust preventative though it may slow it down a bit.

Fluid film is great for the underside but you need to do it more. I do a treatment every fall. Come spring I give the underbody a thorough cleaning.

For the really rusty spots you can slow it down by bringing it back to bare metal and painting. Cosmetics of these repairs will rely on your skill or amount of money you're willing to throw at it.
 
Regarding my O2 sport which lives in Maryland with 210,000 miles. Three or four years ago I used fluid film on the underneath and frame which seems to be working fine. I’ve recently noticed on the left side of the truck inside the wheel well under the rocker and inside the door frame, some rust while the other side is perfectly clean. I don’t know if this was related to the sunroof drain issue I had a few years ago where water was coming into the cab, but that has since been resolved. I guess my question is any idea on why just decide to get ahead of it I do plan on keeping this truck as long as possible.
4500f781896727ee1543cf987a13d1c1.jpg

202a8a6cc1cd9d96828a1240a6998b4e.jpg

8738b7de09abc20ddd5ef01c8df84a8b.jpg

16713ded986a8af17f27e8fa7dab43dc.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Think about slapping on some good corrosion inhibitor. Stuff like wax-based undercoatings or rust-preventive sprays can put up a shield against moisture and salt.
For minor rust spots, use a rust converter to neutralize the rust, followed by a touch-up with matching paint. This can stop that rust from going any further.
Check out electronic rust inhibitors too. They shoot out a low-voltage current to stop rust from taking hold.
 
Would be a good idea to wash the rig more.. fluid film will not stay and will need to be redone every year. Basically, you need to create an oxygen bearer on the steel.

You need to get fluid film inside the rockers ... inside the frame to slow the rust down. Fender well areas are hot zones.

I use paint as a steel indicator. When it flakes off or bubbles under the steel isn't happy.

Sent from my SM-A536V using Tapatalk
 
Your rocker panel looks a lot like mine till last year.

Driver side only, driver door only, rear door section was still solid.

Had it cut out and a fresh section welded in. Hence knowing farther back was still fine.

Cost $600, paint and all, well worth it, as I had perforations that wouldn't get better on their own.

Why just that area, I can only assume due to body orientation during parking.

I went the NH Oil route, they shot into frame, doors, tailgate. rocker panels, etc. Pretty cheap at $200 and follow up touch ups are even cheaper. I no longer drive in the salt/winter, so I',m pretty comfortable I've stopped my issues where they stand.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,309
Messages
3,554,070
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top