Gielamonster's Build Thread - 99 LTD

In one of your earlier pics it looks like your cv boot is torn. How's the angle on the cv's? Is there a body lift too or are the front coilovers just jacked way up? When I saw your first pic it reminded me of Singtoe's truck.
 
Nice looking rig. Bike too.

As far as your rough ride. I would blame it on the OME shocks. I don't know what rear coils you have but I have had 890, 891, stock LC, and now 861 and have never said "Overpasses have a tendency to bounce me out of the seat for an instant".
 
didn't know mongoose bikes were still in the game, i thought they transition to target and other main places

i ride in your neck of the woods too, sweet picture @ cooks corner!
 
didn't know mongoose bikes were still in the game, i thought they transition to target and other main places

i ride in your neck of the woods too, sweet picture @ cooks corner!


LOL!

Mongoose still puts out some quality bikes, however, the price jump from Target to their "good" stuff is a couple thousand!
 
Yeah, I love the 'goose. The drop seatpost and Hammerschmidt up front are the coolest parts, feels like I'm riding a bike from the future. The rides are much more enjoyable than on my old one.

So the Aussie Locker should be here early next week. I'm hoping that I'll remedy the wet/slow drip from the diff cover at the same time:

P1030489.JPG


I read somewhere that the diff covers can get so rusty that they are actually leaking through the metal themselves? This seems really unlikely, I'd expect it just rusted at the flange. What do you guys think? Should I go find a new cover too?
 
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In one of your earlier pics it looks like your cv boot is torn. How's the angle on the cv's? Is there a body lift too or are the front coilovers just jacked way up? When I saw your first pic it reminded me of Singtoe's truck.

Yes, the inner CV is torn on at least one side. Apparently this is a pretty common problem with 2-3" lift. I think the PO installed a 3" lift, no body lift. I don't know if it has a diff drop installed or not. (Truck has been so damn reliable I haven't been under it for almost a year!)

I was reading up on a mod where you just stretch the inner CV boot a little further down the axle and that prevents tearing new ones:

Boot Slide With No Glue - TTORA Forum

I also found some info about using Porsche 930 boots as they're a little longer/bigger? What do you guys think?
 
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No replacing your diff cover...

P1030489.JPG


I read somewhere that the diff covers can get so rusty that they are actually leaking through the metal themselves? This seems really unlikely, I'd expect it just rusted at the flange. What do you guys think? Should I go find a new cover too?

Unfortunately, if you look closely at your rear diff "cover", it is not a cover at all - it is an integrated (welded) piece of the entire rear axle housing (tube)...

I hope for your sake that there is not a crack or hole in it - mine developed a hole around that center bracket for the e-brake guide... However, my 4Runner has always been a "rust belt" Runner...

Here is my recent repair thread:

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/104883-rust-belt-rear-axle-housing-swap.html

After seeing my thread you will see that the "rust" you speak of on your 4Runner is nothing to get bent out of shape about... Trucks around here will look like yours within a few years of driving off the dealer's lot new...

Looking at your differential "cover" - I would guess that you simply need a new crush washer for the fill plug...it could be leaking around that...

When you are ready to put in your new locker, be sure you replace that washer - along with the one for the drain plug.

Do yourself a favor and replace the axle breather while you are at it. Or better yet, go all out and spend $30 on a relocation kit for that breather...

It will save you a lot of grief in the future, and help prevent premature failure of your axle seals...

Hope this helps...
 
Wow, excellent link. Thanks! I didn't realize the construction of the axle housing. You're right, I definitely hope its just a leaking crush washer!

Looks like I better get started on this job ASAP, I have a wheeling trip coming up next weekend.
 
Next weekend = this weekend coming. Look what just showed up!

IMG_20120124_142945.jpg


I think I'll start tackling that job tomorrow along with the CV boots. It seems like my leaking diff is actually a leak further upwind. So I still need to hunt that down too. Hopefully its something easy!
 
Great looking bike and 4runner man! If you want a more accurate way for fuel level then I would look into getting a scangauge. I really don't pay attention to my gas gauge since they are usually so off, I just wait till the gas light comes on and then I fill up which is usually around 13 gallons like you said. Looking forward to seeing it with some 285s underneath it. :thumb3:

Where do get a scan gauge?
 
They're on amazon and ebay. But they're about $125. I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on this method instead:
Torque OBD 2 engine diagnostics — Torque

Here's a video:
Torque on Android / HTC EVO 4G + OBDII/ELM327 Bluetooth Dongle - YouTube

You need one of these for $15:
OBD bluetooth | eBay

And then this app for Android (probably something similar for iphone):
https://market.android.com/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

Total cost is only $20 and it actually has a lot more features than a scangauge.
 
They're on amazon and ebay. But they're about $125. I'm pretty close to pulling the trigger on this method instead:
Torque OBD 2 engine diagnostics — Torque

Here's a video:
Torque on Android / HTC EVO 4G + OBDII/ELM327 Bluetooth Dongle - YouTube

You need one of these for $15:
OBD bluetooth | eBay

And then this app for Android (probably something similar for iphone):
https://market.android.com/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

Total cost is only $20 and it actually has a lot more features than a scangauge.

I am thinking about going with one of these as well, Since I already have/like the free Torque app version.

PS: Love the '99 as well.. :D
 
Performance with 33's

Geila,

Your 4Runner looks bad ass. Love those wheels and tires!

Question: You put 33's on your 4Runner. That's a much, much taller tire than the factory 31's.

Did you notice any effect on off line acceleration?
Ability to maintain highway speed against grade?
Ability to stay in overdrive at highway speed against grade?

Did your truck have 4.10's or 4.56's from the factory?

I'm really curious, because I have to buy all new tires and I'm considering upgrading to 32's on my new 4Runner. My diff code is A03A. What is your code?

Thanks,

fastcar
 

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