GMV's Build Thread

[gmv4k]

Been lurking for years since I got my 1998 4runner in Sept 2012. It had about 139,000 miles when I got it. Automatic tranmission, 4wd and elocker. I had no idea what the elocker did, but I just knew I wanted it. To this day I've never needed the elocker, but whenever I get the chance on dirt I drive in 4wd high, lo and locked just to stretch its legs.

I was originally looking for an FZJ80 Land Cruiser (1994-1998, i think those were the years) but they were hard to come by in good condition at a decent price. In the end I'm glad I have the 4runner because getting 12 mpg would have driven me crazy. I can barely stomach 17 mpg in the 4runner. I was basically looking for a vehicle that could haul the family, construction material and be ready at any moment to drive to South America (that's the dream).

I never had any intentions of starting a build thread or doing any serious modding but this site is like a drug and I can't seem to stop myself. Just like any good addict, I figure if I can help just 1 person with their truck I will have done my part.

 

[gmv4k]

Brief Summary of maintenance done

139k time belt / water pump - got kit from ebay aircabinman. tip get new crank bolt before you start.
139k B&M 70268 SuperCooler Automatic Transmission Cooler (bypassed radiator)
139k new Koyo tyc 1998 radiator
139k 199mm TBU (this is a must do for 3rd gen 4runners) I got 199mm because I didn't want to cut anything (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ements-231mm-13wl-tundra-calipers-rotors.html)

139k new napa battery
140k rear brake drum, pads (napa) / new bell cranks (How to change brake shoes / drum brakes | Mike's Tech Blog)
140k new rear axle breather (need to do extension)
141k tightened throttle/cruise cables (http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/45445-how-get-better-throttle-response-free.html)

 

[gmv4k]

144k rust prevention - spray cans from eastwood - internal frame coating, rust encapsulator, chasis black in that order
144k new clutch fan
145k drain and refill atf, twice. Valvoline Maxlife ATF.
147k driver lbj (oem)
147k 4 new Cooper ATP 265-75-16 from discount tire ($110 each)

 

[gmv4k]

150k milestone

150k oem thermostat bc i was running hot.
150k install OEM roof rack from ebay
152k pass lbj


I've been using Rotella T-6 oil and OEM filters (90915-YZZD1) for oil changes every 3k miles.

 

[gmv4k]

reserved.

 

[gmv4k]

Personal bookmarks for future reference

Rear hitch tire carriers

http://www.wilcooffroad.com/shop/hitchgate-tire-carrier-toyota/

http://detoursusa.com/knucklebone.php

 

[gmv4k]

153k Rear springs and shocks.

After a debating for almost a year between Bilstein HD, Bilstein 5100, OME 906 spring or 99 tail springs. The ride in the back of the 4runner was terrible, if I hit a bump or a hole you can almost hear it bang. I finally decided to get Bilstein HD's and leave the springs alone. Then I decided I wanted to lift it a bit after seeing two threads.

Rickashay's
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/101758-**rickashays-ome-vs-trd-tundra-lc-review**.html

and

Speedy's
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/154200-speedys-lift-install-how-video.html

I figured if I get the 5100, I should be ok if I wanted more lift. I would just have to get rear springs later on. So I finally commited to getting tundra 5100 for the rear and OME 906 springs. Little did I know the PO had installed Bilstein HD's but I couldn't tell because they were covered in rust.


The goods

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004P9LWYK/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004P9LWYK&linkCode=as2&tag=nycfoosball-20&linkId=G7JLBTN2SD5IEZVP">ARB 2906 Old Man Emu Coil Spring</a>

Bilstein 24-100144 Shock Absorber x 2 (ebay)

<a href="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004IARRGI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B004IARRGI&linkCode=as2&tag=nycfoosball-20&linkId=LM4RBGVV6C2DNFGW">Daystar KU08007BK Black 3/4" I.D. Standard Hourglass Shock Eye Bushing - Pair</a>




Pre lift passenger side - 36 1/2"

Pre lift driver side - 35"

Post lift pass - 38"

Post lift driver - 37"

Pass - 1 1/2"
Driver - 2" (with gas level near empty)

Don't forget 906 springs are labeled A and B. A is taller and for the driver side. I had to remind the mechanic while I was watching him install.


Truck before

Truck after

I ended up taking it to a shop because it was my only vehicle and I didn't want to be stuck in my driveway if I couldn't finish the job. The shop ended up charging me 2.5 hours. I probably should have done it myself. If you have to take it to a shop I recommend you press out the bushings before hand, if you want to save some money. It took him awhile just to do that, maybe 30 minutes. The rest was pretty easy. They ended up using a blowtorch to cut the old Bilstein HD's at the top. It took him several tries on the driver side.

Also to note, instead of using the locking nylon nut at the top, the shop used a 2 nut system to lock it in place. I forgot to ask for the original locking nuts so I could put them on. I asked the mechanic he said he guarantees it won't come lose. He cranked one down, then cranked another on top of it. Took him a few minutes for each.




Old shocks

 

[gmv4k]

My Bilstein 5100 / OME 906 review

This setup rides 10 times better on the street than my old setup.


I had original springs with Bilstein HD's and the ride was too firm. Hitting bumps and pot holes on the highway was jarring. Whenever I make my communte there's one bump on the highway where the woman catches air everytime we pass it (she's in the back with the kids).

After the 5100/906 upgrade, now when we hit the same bump on the highway she doesn't catch air anymore. No more thud. The woman approves of the new lift.

I guess it's only 1 1/2". I was worried it was going to be too high, but 1 1/2" or 2" isn't that much. It's hardly noticeable I think.

If I had to chose between my old Bilstein HD and my new 5100, it's a no-brainer. It's not really comparing apples to apples. But I was really torn chosing between the two. I think I bought the HDs (which I sold later to someone on here) for $65 a piece. I think I got the 5100's for $80 a piece on ebay.

I'll give an update later with more saddle time, but so far it has been a major improvement.

 

[gmv4k]

Cup Holder / Center console Mod from a 1999+ 4runner to 1998 4runner

153K

Not much to it. I was stressing out about this one, but it's really easy if you have the Center console, e-brake and bracket. The whole process took me 1.5 hours from start to finish including looking for tools. Nothing frustrating about this one, it's just busy work, which I think is fun. No cutting, no drilling, no broken bolts to deal with (since most of the bolts are inside) and my truck is fairly rusty.

This write up helped the most.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/61128-cup-holder-mod-center-console-upgrade.html

I personally like a lot of pictures, they help ease my mind. There's not much to add but I took some pictures anywhere.

He's my original. Remove 2 screws on the side and then 2 bolts inside the storage. Easy.

Popped the switches out by putting my hand inside the ebrake area.

Unclip the wire for the heater controls underneath.

Remove the slider button from the rear vent, it just pulls out. Slide the entire assembly out. I had to put it into 4Lo to slide it out.

Original bracket (rusty)

Swapping out Ebrake. Before I removed the old ebrake I measured the top part of the adjustment nut so I could get it close when I installed the new one. It's just a double nut system (I used a wrench and a socket when tightening it). Pretty easy. Remove both the nuts and then there's a metal bendy piece that holds the wire in. Then it slides out. The whole ebrake comes out with 2 bolts. If you look closely at the pic you can see it.

Updated bracket (less rusty). 3 bolts as you can see. Easy.

The bezel for the shifters just pops out. I had to expose the wires to move the Back Window and ECT buttons to the left of the steering wheel.

Cutting and removing electrical tape took a few minutes.

Remove the cover under the steering. It's just 4 bolts. Easy.

Pop out the cover plates, easy once the cover is remove. Pop in the switches. It's nice because the switch with the white plug (rear window) matches with the white plug.

Don't plug them back in yet, like I did in this photo. The wires need to run behind a square opening.

I thought this photo might help someone. This is the housing to the left of the shifter in the footwell. Notice the hooks at the top. They slide out to the left. They slide in to the right. I almost broke it by pulling straight out.

I saved the plastic cover around the wires and reused them and taped everything back up.

Done. Time to test it out.


If anybody wants my old console let me know.

Thanks to [MENTION=90352]UnderFire[/MENTION] for hooking me up with everything.

 

[gmv4k]

Changed forward o2 sensor.

154040 miles

Current Avg MPG before new o2 sensor install: 17.4mpg

===

Part Number: Denso 234-4154 Oxygen Sensor(i think or Denso 234-4162, those are the 2 I bought for before and after cat)
Amazon.com: Denso 234-4154 Oxygen Sensor: Automotive


OEM nuts (part number 90179-08059) x 4

===

Been sitting on the forward o2 sensor for awhile and finally got around to trying it. I didn't have codes or anything, just working on maintenance stuff. I read removing the plug was going to be real pain but it was actually really easy. My o2 sensor was missing one nut. I broke the other nut/stud trying to remove it. Next time heat it up, I can't believe I forgot. But I used this

Irwin Industrial Tools 394001 Bolt-Grip Bolt Extractor Base Set, 5-Piece - Bolt Extractor Kit - Amazon.com

And it really gripped the old rusted nut... well too much, I think I used the 13mm one (doesn't come with the 12mm). It took the whole stud with it. I figured I was only running with 1 nut for awhile anyway. I'll see how this goes. If it leaks or I get codes I'll get it welded. I was thinking about putting steel worm-clamps on it too if it becomes an issue. And I anti-seized the crap out of the one nut on there.


This pic really helped to remove the plug

taken from 4x4Wire - Tech: Time to Replace the O2 Sensor on your 3rd Gen Toyota?

With a small screwdriver, seen in the next image, with my feet dangling out the passenger side, looking over the exhaust I used the small screwdriver to pry the latch up. Very easy. I used a flashlight to highlight the area. Didn't remove any bolts. Took 15 seconds once I saw the picture above.

old o2 sensor and small screwdriver to remove the plug.

So far so good. I probably should have disconnected the battery. But i think it's improving. Not as sluggish anymore. I'll update later with mpg and experience.

 

[gmv4k]

Front D Ring Mounts

These are the ones [MENTION=24804]legokcen[/MENTION] sells.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/26221-front-d-ring-mounts.html

Trackdecal.com - Road Course Decals and Motorsports Graphics


Finally got around to installing these. Had them sitting for over a year. I was a little confused with the bolts. After you remove the passenger side you're left with 2 long bolts, I tried to re install my new mount but one of the bolts were too long. Then I did the driver side and one of the bolts was too short. Ah ha.

Threw some anti-seize on it and torqued it 83 ft/lbs. I couldn't find a torque spec for it so I just did what I would do for wheel lugs.

Removing these bolts were easy even on a NE vehicle.

Off with these.

From the front. I think I'm going to have a problem clearing the front fairing when a D shackle is under load.

I'll work on getting a shackle on there.

 

[gmv4k]

Addco 483 rear sway / new end links

Since installing Bilstein 5100's in the rears with OME 906, from Bilstein HD's with stock coils, my ride has been a little soft with a lot of roll/sway. Before my ride was too firm with no roll. The roll/sway has been almost scary, but the ride is great. So I immediately started researching sway bars, unfortunately there's only one option, and they are pricey.


Addco 573 - front
Addco 483 - rear

I tried to find some used, but they are hard to find. I ended up paying about $200 each.

I was planning on re-using my original end links but I figured out there was no way I could remove the old ones from the old sway bar. FYI there's a 6mm hex that is used to take the bolt off, it's not easy. But thanks to [MENTION=54438]trailmix[/MENTION] and this link I found a cheaper alternative to knock-off end links (almost got moog ones)

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/97769-built-new-swaybar-endlinks-my-runner.html

There's was some confusion about which energy suspension links to buy. I ended up getting the wrongs one first time around. The energy suspension website had it wrong, at least for me. trailmix got 4 1/4 links, I wanted something a little shorter.

I decided on 9.8124G

Amazon.com: Energy Suspension 9.8124G End Link Set with Hardware: Automotive

Which is 3 9/16 inches

Hopefully this pic will help somebody out.

I also used

Stanley Forged Eye Bolts 3/8 x 2-1/2" N245-126 / 3260BC

I got off of ebay. ($4 each)


I got 4 x M8x1.25x20mm Grade 8.8 bolts for the new brackets as per this site and some split lock washers (the sway came with regular washers that I used)

Toyota 4Runner Handling Modifications Addco Sway Roll Bars



Removal was easy. I jacked up the rear of the truck from the hitch point and I took off the passenger rear tire. Note when re-installing put the truck back on the ground. I had to loosen everything back up because I tightened everything down while the truck was jacked up and I ended up with a clunk. Total time with mistake 2 hours. I doubled nutted the eyebolt (jamb nut) to connect to the sway bar.

This was a big help

4 Pc Metric Offset Ratcheting Wrench Set

The blue 17mm/14mm offset ratcheting wrench for getting the nut on in the wheel well.

I now have extended links, so far there's no contact with anything, which I was worried about. I forgot to take a picture to compare the 2 links. But removing the entire link would probably take 10 minute each if I ever get a chance to go off-roading. From what I read I should be ok leaving them in. I'm still slightly weary that I might snap the eyebolt, but so far it's been solid.

Currently I only have the rear installed but it drives soo much better. I used to drive like a grandma, but now I'm turning and switching lanes like a high school kid. I can't wait to installed the fronts. But it actually drives really well and I'm in no hurry to install the front sways bars. But remember I still have HD's up front.

 

[TCMach]

Truck looks good man. Done some good work on it already! Just leave the front sway bar off. I love the ride with my front off much more than with it on.

Just a question is your driver side rear lower link bent? might just be the picture..

 

[gmv4k]

[MENTION=82211]TCMach[/MENTION]

Thanks for posting. I wasn't sure if anybody was reading.

But yeah, both rear control arms are bent exactly the same. The truck seems to drive pretty straight. It's not high on my list of priorities at the moment but it's on my never ending list of things to do.

 

[TCMach]

Thanks for posting. I wasn't sure if anybody was reading.

But yeah, both rear control arms are bent exactly the same. The truck seems to drive pretty straight. It's not high on my list of priorities at the moment but it's on my never ending list of things to do.

Hahaha it seems that way sometimes. I know how you feel. Forums been slow recently

Well if it drives straight then ya I wouldn't worry to much about it. Plus it gives you an excuse to build some beefy ones down the road!

 

[KANO]

[MENTION=82211]TCMach[/MENTION]

Thanks for posting. I wasn't sure if anybody was reading.

hahaha! This made me laugh a bit.

How do you like the D Ring mounts? I would like something similar too for the front and rear.... but I don't see how my bumper would not get destroyed if there was any angle on the strap/winch line??

And yes..... it's been pretty slow lately. I keep catching myself looking at posts from 2008, 2009, etc and I'm about to hit "reply with quote" and i'm thinking to myself...... these people will never respond to you from a post from 6 years ago. :nono:

 

[gmv4k]

hahaha! This made me laugh a bit.

How do you like the D Ring mounts? I would like something similar too for the front and rear.... but I don't see how my bumper would not get destroyed if there was any angle on the strap/winch line??

And yes..... it's been pretty slow lately. I keep catching myself looking at posts from 2008, 2009, etc and I'm about to hit "reply with quote" and i'm thinking to myself...... these people will never respond to you from a post from 6 years ago. :nono:

Sorry I didn't see this reply before, but..... I haven't put shackles on my D Ring mounts yet, but as soon as I get a chance I'll post some pictures.


Some updates. The nuts holding down my rear sway bar to the eye bolt kept getting loose, creating a banging noise. I got a locking washer and compressed a rubber grommet inside, between the eye bolt and sway bar hole to minimize any movement. So far it's been holding up and not getting loose.

Also I installed my front sway bar. It was pretty painless since I had recently change the all the bushings. I think I did it in an hour. If I had power tools it would have been a lot faster.

I want to say it improved the ride 20%. It wasn't night and day like the rear sway bar (80%) but noticeable. Once again if you're on a budget I would try doing the rear first. I probably didn't need the front sway bar, but since I had it. I was worried it was going to handle oddly or unpredictably, but for me it was fine.

 

[crunchtime]

Nice looking ride. So how has the MPG faired since the new O2 sensor?

 

[gmv4k]

Nice looking ride. So how has the MPG faired since the new O2 sensor?

Thanks.

It's definitely improved. Off the top of my head I think my Ultra-Gauge is now reading 18.7 mpg. But I also attribute better gas mileage to the sway bars. My commute is up and down windy roads. Before I had to slow down for all the turns but now I can maintain my speed, so less accelerating. Conversely I've been driving a lot faster than before I had my new sway bars. I'm doing 70-75mph where I used to do 60mph. Maybe it's not helping

Did the new O2 sensor help? I want to say yes but not that much. 1/2 mile to 1 mile per gallon better at most.

I have the original sticker invoice for the truck. I think it said epa estimates 17 city/ 19 highway. I'm doing 18.7 mixed. I should be happy, but I'm not. I wish I could hit 20 mpg. But last week gas was under $3.00 in NJ. I think I paid $2.60 a gallon. That made me happy, I wish I could stock up on gas.

 

[LookAtThatDog]

Nice read, man. Keep it up.

I don't see a lot of rust justifying the 'rust bucket' in your signature though haha