Gobi Rack - Advantage and disadvantages

Ordered my Stealth rack for my '17 TRD Pro about a week ago and was quoted 12-16 weeks for delivery.

-No Sunroof, so no cutout needed

-Added 40" light bar, so kept the slight rise to protect the bar

-2 adjustable bars

-accessories galore (hi lift mount, tie dows, ax/shovel mount)

-ladder and HD gas struts for rear hatch included

Patiently waiting for it, and will be also mounting my bikes/kayak mounts up there.

I miss the good old days of getting a quality built rack from Whitson Metalworks in 4-6 weeks for half the price of a Gobi.
 
This has probably been beat to death but I need replies so I can start a thread lol.

I live in anchorage Alaska so anything outside of the city itself is a couple hour drive. Ive had my roof rack on for a few months and would buy it again. There is a little bit of wind noise but even with the radio low enough to hold a conversation, I don't notice it. And for me the mpg did go down a little bit (only using the vehicles average mpg on the cluster) but it isn't bad. I say I would buy it again because having that ability to put stuff securely on the roof (specifically heavy things I don't want rolling around my backseat and recovery gear that can get caked in mud) is higher than the little extra gas money I spend.

Hope it helps.
 
I used to have a Gobi Stealth Rack on my 2014 Trail, and that thing had rust below where the wind fairing made contact with the roof, as well as along one of the brackets where it mounted towards the front of the room where the rain gutter was rust from water getting through the seal and sitting in there.

How would i avoid something like that a second time around? Anybody have this problem?
 
I used to have a Gobi Stealth Rack on my 2014 Trail, and that thing had rust below where the wind fairing made contact with the roof, as well as along one of the brackets where it mounted towards the front of the room where the rain gutter was rust from water getting through the seal and sitting in there.

How would i avoid something like that a second time around? Anybody have this problem?

The only rust risk I see is on things that bolt on or are compression fit to the rack. I see the paint/power coat chipping a bit at those points and that is going to rust if it isn't touched up. Any spot that flexes will eventually create a gap in the weather seal and cause rust. Rusty water will then run down and give a rust color where the water evaporates. Is that consistent with your experience?
 
The only rust risk I see is on things that bolt on or are compression fit to the rack. I see the paint/power coat chipping a bit at those points and that is going to rust if it isn't touched up. Any spot that flexes will eventually create a gap in the weather seal and cause rust. Rusty water will then run down and give a rust color where the water evaporates. Is that consistent with your experience?

I saw rust right where the wind deflector made contact with the roof, as well as on the driver side front where the weather seal from the roof meets the windshield where the bracket was mounted
 
I saw rust right where the wind deflector made contact with the roof, as well as on the driver side front where the weather seal from the roof meets the windshield where the bracket was mounted

The wind deflector is made of plastic so, there are only two ways to see rust. Either the paint on the roof is chipped off and the roof is rusting, or it is rust that was suspended in water that evaporated.

The rusty water can come from points on the rack the rust. For the fairing, the likely candidate area is where the bolts attach the fairing. It is easy for the nuts or the threads of the bolt to have worn through (probably during installation, but maybe over time) the powder coat. Water will seep in, rusting the fairing bracket, the water will run down the back of the fairing, evaporate and leave rust.

I'd suspect the same for the weather seal/windshield, but the rust would be from where the rack mount bracket attaches to the tubing.

Do you see rust at any of these points if you remove the bolts?
 
The wind deflector is made of plastic so, there are only two ways to see rust. Either the paint on the roof is chipped off and the roof is rusting, or it is rust that was suspended in water that evaporated.

The rusty water can come from points on the rack the rust. For the fairing, the likely candidate area is where the bolts attach the fairing. It is easy for the nuts or the threads of the bolt to have worn through (probably during installation, but maybe over time) the powder coat. Water will seep in, rusting the fairing bracket, the water will run down the back of the fairing, evaporate and leave rust.

I'd suspect the same for the weather seal/windshield, but the rust would be from where the rack mount bracket attaches to the tubing.

Do you see rust at any of these points if you remove the bolts?

From what i remember, the rust from fairing was likely water that got trapped between the bottom of fairing and roof. The other part of rust was inside the weather stripping seal on the roof, next to where the bracket sat. The water got through the seal and sat inside and started rust.
 
From what i remember, the rust from fairing was likely water that got trapped between the bottom of fairing and roof. The other part of rust was inside the weather stripping seal on the roof, next to where the bracket sat. The water got through the seal and sat inside and started rust.

That is not good in either case since it isn't the rack that's rusting but the vehicle roof. I pretty sure neither of those things is supposed to happen. I have a clear plastic protector adhered under the fairing to protect the roof, which ought to prevent rust (but I thought the paint would do that regardless). Not sure what to do about the mount points apart from maybe some silicone.
 
I wonder if anyone has line x'd their rack. That would hold up better against paint scratching off and starting rust.
 
The only disadvantage to my Gobi rack was shelling out the money it cost to order one. I love mine.
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OME 895E/883 + Bilstein 5100 | GOBI stealth | RCI alum front skid | FN Countersteer X | BFG 265's | AVS hood visor | morimoto HID's
 
This got me curious, so I did a little research.

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/general-discussions/203660-roof-rack-controversy-gobi-vs-whitson.html

Looks like Gobi (a.k.a. Intelligent Designs 2000) had the brilliant idea a few years back to patent the very concept of a direct bolt-on roof rack for an SUV where it attaches to the factory mount points. Any design, any look, any configuration. And then sue any small shop making inexpensive versions to put them out of business.
:wtf:

I understand patenting a new or novel concept, say a specific feature in your rack that you developed. But people have been building aftermarket roof racks for SUV's for decades.

I don't care if they're a good quality rack or not; any company with that tactic (patent trolling) as their business model won't get a dime from me if I can help it.


I knew a guy that "invented" a device that bolts /pinches onto the metal rib of a metal roof to prevent snow from sliding off, he also made a screw down version. After years of making this he got sued and turns out another guy had already patent every which way you can attach a snow stop device to metal roofs. In the end he had to pay the guy with the patent per device and ultimately settled.

Its too bad the whole patent trolling has destroyed any creativity that people can come up with, yet to find that its already patent. Makes it tough to come up with original designs.


From what I read their patents cover certain design elements such as

The roof rack is also rotatably interconnected to a support structure associated with the rear of the vehicle such that it is capable of moving from a first position of use adjacent to the roof to a second position of use away from the roof where the light bar remains interconnected to the vehicle adjacent to the windshield. As such, electrical connections associated with the light bar remain intact when the roof rack is rotated away from the roof.

Unless this sums it up

It is one aspect of the present invention to provide
a roof rack that is adapted for interconnection to an SUV.

however
Referring now to FIGS. 1-40, a roof rack 2 adapted
for interconnection with an SUV 4 is shown. More specifi
cally, a roof rack 2 that consists of a lower Structure 6 and
upper Structure 8 that is separated by a plurality of Vertical
members 10 is provided herein. The lower structure 6 is also
comprised partially of transverse members 12 and other
support members 14 covered by wire mesh 16 in selected
areas. Generally, the members of the rack are constructed of
tubular material Such as Steel, aluminum, Inconel, iron, etc.
A plurality of brackets 18 are provided that are interconnected to predetermined locations on the lower Structure 6
and which interface with structure on the SUV

Specifics on nut plates
Referring now to FIG. 8, the method of installation
of one embodiment of the present invention is shown herein.
Generally, SUVs arrive equipped with factory supplied roof
Structures. These structures are generally made of hollow
channels 28 that extend from the front to the rear of the roof.
In addition, transverse beams 30 are supplied that extend
from one channel 28 to the other, and which span the width
of the roof. In one embodiment of the present invention, a
plurality of nut plates 32 are Supplied that Selectively
interface with the channels 28 to provide mounting locations
for brackets

Finally I believe this covers the full patent.

What is claimed is:
1. Astorage rack adapted for interconnection with the roof
of a vehicle, comprising:
a lower Support Structure having a front member and a
rear member with two side members positioned ther
ebetween, Said rear member also including an arcuate
member located between said two side members and
extending toward Said front member;
an upper Support Structure of generally the same shape of
Said lower Support Structure;
a plurality of Vertical members interconnecting Said lower
Support Structure to Said upper Support Structure to
define a Semi-enclosed Storage area; a plurality of transverse memberS Spanning between Said
two side members of Said lower Support Structure;
a plurality of longitudinal memberS Spanning between at
least two of Said plurality of transverse members, and
a spare tire Support Structure interconnected to Said lower
Support Structure and bounded by Said arcuate member
wherein a spare tire may be Selectively interconnected
to Said Storage rack Such that it rests on Said Spare tire
Support Structure adjacent to Said arcuate member of
Said lower Support Structure and Said arcuate member
of upper Support Structure, wherein the Spare tire may
be selectively positioned and removed from Said Stor
age rack without lifting the Spare tire over Said upper
Support Structure

They do have diagrams on the brackets but a simple change like making them angled with a diagonal brace, or something else can by pass the patent. However be prepared to fight it out and a judge to decide if its different enough.

https://patentimages.storage.googleapis.com/64/b8/ad/2d44d9b4bbf828/US20050082326A1.pdf

Apple patented the rounded corners on iphones/ipads, no other phone manufacture can make a device with rounded corners like theirs. Samsung lost a while back because of this. Same goes with the round home button.
 
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Am I dreaming or did I read that Gobi now ships their racks with a strip of clear vinyl for protecting the paint from the wind fairing? Anyone know?
 
Am I dreaming or did I read that Gobi now ships their racks with a strip of clear vinyl for protecting the paint from the wind fairing? Anyone know?

That’s correct, a 2” strip with self adhesive backing.

Install tips:
1. It comes rolled up. Suggest stretching out over night before installing.
2. Dry fit the fairing and account for curvature of fairing on each end. Use masking tape to mark 1” from the edge from fairing.
3. Remove fairing and clean surface with denatured alcohol.
4. Prepare a dish soap/water mixture in a squirt bottle. Spray roof area before applying the plastic strip.
5. Buy a $2 bondo sqeegy to remove the bubbles as you lay the strip down.
6. Peel the backing tape off in sections at a time. Get the first section started, place along the edge of masking tape, remove bubbles, then peel away some more.

If you do it right you can curve the rectangular protective strip so there is 1” of protection on either side of the fairing

You can go to the Gobi accessories web site and download some of the above instructions and see pictures.
 
That’s correct, a 2” strip with self adhesive backing.

Install tips:
1. It comes rolled up. Suggest stretching out over night before installing.
2. Dry fit the fairing and account for curvature of fairing on each end. Use masking tape to mark 1” from the edge from fairing.
3. Remove fairing and clean surface with denatured alcohol.
4. Prepare a dish soap/water mixture in a squirt bottle. Spray roof area before applying the plastic strip.
5. Buy a $2 bondo sqeegy to remove the bubbles as you lay the strip down.
6. Peel the backing tape off in sections at a time. Get the first section started, place along the edge of masking tape, remove bubbles, then peel away some more.

If you do it right you can curve the rectangular protective strip so there is 1” of protection on either side of the fairing

You can go to the Gobi accessories web site and download some of the above instructions and see pictures.

My man! Thanks. My rack is arriving today so I want to make sure all my ducks are in a row before getting halfway through only to realize I'm missing something.

It's interesting they don't talk about using silicon sealant on anything when it seems most people on the forum use some when installing. But then again, the OEM rails don't use silicon sealant so it's kind of curious.
 

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