Going up............Re-suspending the 3rd gen 4Runner for 2012

xcmountain80

New member
It was brought to my attention by my brother the self proclaimed suspension expert that my truck might need just a little more lift. I had already planned on doing an overhaul of ball joint's steering components, and bushings in 2012 mainly because the 4Runner had a fresh motor and should keep pushing me along the terra firma. The front and rear are to be addressed for basin PM need's and if all done at once the likelihood of.....you get the idea.

I'm running the Sonoran Steel lift (there weren't any numerical options when I bought mine in 2005) FRONT: are updated adj. Bilstein 5100's with Tundra 4x4 coils and a 3/8" top out spacer, and limit straps (the coils and spindles rub a bit). REAR: FZJ80 front coils (no idea which is left or right) untrimmed overload cone, and ProCrap 9000's with modified upper shock mount pockets to accept normal shocks and not the PIA stud mounts.

Planning... FRONT: Icon coil overs, Camburg UCA's (greater tire to UCA clearance, noise, and longer BJ life) set at 2.5" and run a 3/4"- 1" top out spacer. REAR: non resivour type Icons or Bilstein 5100's or something similar. The rear coils are nice and soft and broken in so I'm not sure that I'm going to change them at this time.

On another forum a member suggested removing my top out spacer of 3.8" I'm currently running and move the adjustable ring on the Bilstein up. I have room....

I'm not sure how it will ride but my thought was since the coil over can adjust up to 3" of lift I'd run them shorter and fill in some space on top. In theory this keep the spring under less compression (this is in theory of course). I know the Icons will ride better than the 5100's for certain with better adjust ability but perhaps with more maintenance sot long term (ICON rebuilds). I think the 5100's are set 2nd notch

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I could run them up to see what the height adjust ability will be like. My hope was to level the truck, I know some like the raked look but I'm not fond of it and like a level rig.

For the rear, after a trip this past weekend using my roof box the rear sagged about 3/4"-1" with light gear (clothes, clothes, and a dog) enough so that I noticed the headlight climb a bit on the road. I would be up for a heavier spring and better shock, I feel the ride now with no rear shocks is fine (this was to test if the valving was garbage or not) without shocks. The shock load I get hitting holes or dips is likely from the shocks and not the springs, the valving doesn't cycle fast enough to soften the blow and thus shocks the vehicle.
Thoughts

Aaron
 
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When I started my last big re-lift. I did a warranty replacement on the Bilsteins that I had up front. Then I added the Toytec CO pack **SALE** Front adjustable coil over kit for Bilstein 5100's - Toytec Lifts: Toyota Lift Kits: FJ Cruiser Lift Kits, Tacoma Lift Kits, Tundra Lift Kits, 4 Runner Lift Kits, Sequoia Lift Kits, Toyota Truck Lift Kits Now that I have adjustable COs, this is the only way to lift the front (no matter what brand). Fine tuning the exact height, now and later, is great. The back, I started with 9 wrap factory LC coils. They ride great but my loads change so much that when loaded for an ExPo, it squats too much. I just changed to OME 861s. They ride great and handle loads great. I wheeled today and with my usual load, I could almost compress the rear to the bumpstops.
 
I'm guessing mine are out of warranty, just given the amount of time I've hah them. I did see the adjustable CO add on that ToyTec offers and while this is a feasable idea I was hoping for "NEW" suspension for the new year not saying that might not be a bad idea for the time being as it would offer "incremental adjustment".

Aaron
 
THE issue with top out spaces is that they allow the wheels to droop beyond their design. This can overextend the CVs which can cause breakage or totally pulling apart. The bigger the TOS the increased chances of CV issues.

Actually I am. I'm running the ToyTec 1/4" ones. I'm running them for the added droop and not for added lift. I have had zero issues.
 
Wonder if anyone else is running a spacer on top of their coil overs?

A

j-money$$$ put some top outs on his SAW 2.0s and then adjusted them down a little. He ended up with about the same amount of lift, but he said it rides nicer now. Droop shouldn't be an issue since you have limit straps.
 
I have limit straps to keep the CV's from ripping open or out of place that are adjustable just to help with over extension.

A
 
Camburg UCA's (greater tire to UCA clearance, noise, and longer BJ life)

You will not see longer life out of those heim joints over the stock ball joint on the UCA. I have never had a heim joint last more than 10K miles before its completely worn out. and thats in the dry desert. Im sure with any regular moisture they go out even faster.

just my 2C on that.

and cost doesnt always mean a better ride. My saw 2.0s rode horrible, and i have been in many trucks with OME struts or the bilsteins and they ride way nicer. The main problem with the saw 2.0s is the lack of down travel, even when only at 2" of lift, I keep it as low as possible. I put a 3/8" top out spacer on top of them and cranked off the springs the same amount. THis let the full extension of the shock be 3/8" lower, and with that positioned about 1/2 way out on the arm it net me just about 1" of droop. then i added some washers under the front bumps to compensate. It rides real nice now. Keep it as low as possible. My saw 2.0s rode so nice before i lifted the truck I ran them at stock height for 6 months or so before i lifted the rear.

and if you shop you can find the SAW2.0s for under $700 a pair. look for tacoma part numbers because i would only buy the extended travel version.
 
You will not see longer life out of those heim joints over the stock ball joint on the UCA. I have never had a heim joint last more than 10K miles before its completely worn out. and thats in the dry desert. Im sure with any regular moisture they go out even faster.

just my 2C on that.

and cost doesnt always mean a better ride. My saw 2.0s rode horrible, and i have been in many trucks with OME struts or the bilsteins and they ride way nicer. The main problem with the saw 2.0s is the lack of down travel, even when only at 2" of lift, I keep it as low as possible. I put a 3/8" top out spacer on top of them and cranked off the springs the same amount. THis let the full extension of the shock be 3/8" lower, and with that positioned about 1/2 way out on the arm it net me just about 1" of droop. then i added some washers under the front bumps to compensate. It rides real nice now. Keep it as low as possible. My saw 2.0s rode so nice before i lifted the truck I ran them at stock height for 6 months or so before i lifted the rear.

and if you shop you can find the SAW2.0s for under $700 a pair. look for tacoma part numbers because i would only buy the extended travel version.


How do you feel about the revised Light Racing UCA's or do you feel a serviceable unit that maintains the Toyota ball joint like a shaved unit from SS. The SAW are better than the Icons....? I remember them from Waaaay back on BajaTacos rig which was one of the initial inspirations for me to mod and travel. I like the bilstien 5100 adj from SS, I also thought about dropping the ring down one spot and adding a 1" spacer, further uncompressing the spring.

Thanks

Aaron
 
How do you feel about the revised Light Racing UCA's or do you feel a serviceable unit that maintains the Toyota ball joint like a shaved unit from SS. The SAW are better than the Icons....? I remember them from Waaaay back on BajaTacos rig which was one of the initial inspirations for me to mod and travel. I like the bilstien 5100 adj from SS, I also thought about dropping the ring down one spot and adding a 1" spacer, further uncompressing the spring.

Thanks

Aaron

Well this will be IMO your opinions may be different, But the LR arms do have a nice sealed ball joint, but i dont personally like those arms. They seem complicated to get aligned and may get knocked out. They are one of the better designs still. The camburg/tc arms are way overkill... the UCA doesnt see much force compared to the lower. and the exposed ball joint is just asking for dirt,mud,rust ext to help wear it out. and most lubricants will help dirt stick to them and further increase wear.

If your going to 35's which im assuming you are planning on it you will need to do something with the UCA. I shaved mine similarly to the sonoran steel arms. Its a super easy job, I filled the hole in with some 3/16 plate. Then still had to get 1/4" spacers up front. so my total Back spacing is 3.5" now. Shaving your own is the most cost effective, It didnt cost me anything. I wouldnt pay for those SS arms. they are really hacked. Im sure they are fine, but still...


And in no way am I saying SAWs are better than icons. Icon has a huge following and many claim the valving is way better, and from what i have seen they do tend to go 50K miles or so before a rebuild is needed. My SAW 2.0s on the other hand needed a rebuild at 15K, camburg did the job and forgot a c, clip so 5K later 1 was leaking again. Im on 10 K now and they are still great. I had a local guy rebuild em this time around....

See you have my idea of uncompressing the spring. I found the ride on mine bad too because of too much pre load. I would say get the adjustable toytecs or SS bilsteins and play with them DONT add a 1" spacer. to your current setup. That will put you with too much down travel and no up travel. Remember its over double the spacer to lift. You have to be careful spacing struts down... In you case with the limit strap you will be just loosing travel. My normal travel SAW 2.0s and a 3/8 topout ride great! that with a heavy front end (2 batteries ,winch w/synthetic line, bud built skid, and a chopped up arb)

hope that helps. Good luck. Ohh BTW the OME setup with 883s from toytec rides really good. I drove Brian2suns truck and its nice.
 

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