going with a daystar spacer lift, questions on 1.5" vs. 2.5" kits and possible issues

[2k1]

going with a daystar spacer lift, questions on 1.5" vs. 2.5" kits and possible issues

For those about to make the argument against spacer thanks but no thanks...I know that some think you should stay away but for the budget I have for this spacers are the way I am going to go.

don't need convincing either way, I was thinking about coils but could not get the needed info and frankly do not want to spend the money for the new coils...lift is just for looks, on road 100% of the time and it is a 2wd

question is, in doing a 1.5" or a 2.5" daystar spacer lift,

will I need to do anything else in going with the 2.5", like extended brake lines, bump stops, or a diff drop?

also I have kyb gas a just shocks on order to replace the originals, will the standard length kyb fit for both the 1.5" and the 2.5" lift kits, or would I need longer shocks for the 2.5"?

getting either:

Amazon.com: Daystar KT09112BK Comfort Ride 1.5" Lift Coil Spring Spacer Kit: Automotive

or

Amazon.com: Daystar KT09106BK 2.5" Lift Kit with Bumps and Boots: Automotive

your advice is much appreciated

thanks for your help

 

[Slow_T4R]

You won't need extended lines, bump stops def not a diff drop for a 2WD and I ran stock shocks (Monroe) on my 2.5 inch daystar lift and it rode pretty nice.

 

[2k1]

OK cool...nice build threads as well...what about torn CV boots if I go to the 2.5 instead of the 1.5? Do 2wd even have CV boots?

With that answered, one last question... besides the 1" of lift what else might be different results of installing the 2 kits...if it is all the same I suppose I would rather go to 2.5 instead of 1.5 because from what I read 2.5 seemed to add a lot of potential problems... can anyone confirm or deny addition possible problems in going 2.5 spacer over 1.5 spacer besides what was already addressed? Thanks

 

[Slow_T4R]

I can't really think of any difference besides being one inch taller. Also you don't have any cv joints to break (which is nice).

 

[2k1]

ok cool...hey slow just for clarification does a 2wd not have cv joints or why did you say I don't have them to break?

if I am understanding this right the 2wd don't have a differential to drop and don't have joints that can break?

do 2wd have cv boots that can tear?

thanks for all the info, where abouts in CA are you?

 

[Slow_T4R]

Yeah you nailed it, there's no differential or cv joints on a 2wd. I'm in central california, fresno (sucks ass ha).

 

[2k1]

nice...less maintenance but less capability I suppose...I don't go off road anyway so a 4wd would definitely be more trouble than it is worth...

I appreciate the info all day...my KYB Gas A Justs just arrived via UPS tonight so this weekend will be the install!

Still amazed that the same shocks for stock will work with a 2.5" lift but I am glad they do, so do the shocks have less travel I guess, but if it is only going to be on road the shock probably does not need too much in the way of travel I guess, huh?

 

[BrandonF]

Stock length shocks with 2.5" of lift will only suck off road. You will not get as much suspension articulation. On the road, I doubt you will notice it. When I installed my landcruiser coils in my 4runner, I temporarily drove it with the stock shocks and it rode terribly. Those gave me over 4" of lift though, which mean't that the little stock shocks were almost fully extended at ride height. At 2.5" of lift, you will not have any problems.

 

[2k1]

ok good deal thanks Brandon appreciate the confirmation, I will never be off road so I should not have any issues with it...thanks, almost went 1.5" I think if I did that every time I looked at it I would think I should have done the extra 1 " and gone with 2.5" so now from the beginning I will just do the 2.5" and ride around nice and tall

 

[2k1]

Any issue with sway bar end links not being long enough or tearing the CV boots?

Does 2wd even have CV boots, I know earlier it was answered there is no CV axles, but what about xv boots?

I will be running 275/70/16s bfg rugged terrain (height wise right in between a 265/70 & 265/75) think those will be too small?

Since I am running 275/70/16 would the 1.5" Daystar be better or more proportional...or is there even a point to lifting that little?

Thanks again I think those are my last questions

 

[Mc1337sauce]

Any issue with sway bar end links not being long enough or tearing the CV boots?

Does 2wd even have CV boots, I know earlier it was answered there is no CV axles, but what about xv boots?

I will be running 275/70/16s bfg rugged terrain (height wise right in between a 265/70 & 265/75) think those will be too small?

Since I am running 275/70/16 would the 1.5" Daystar be better or more proportional...or is there even a point to lifting that little?

Thanks again I think those are my last questions

When I installed my 2.5in lift, I had no issue with the sway bar end links (though if your bushings are worn/cracked/crumbling, you want to replace those with some polyurethane bushings).

Since you have a 2WD truck, you have no CV axles, boots, front differential, or anything related to putting power to the front wheels.

The 275/70/R16 tires are pretty much exactly 31in tall by 10.5in wide, which is the same as the 31x10.5R15 BFG All-Terrains I'm running. I personally like the look of the 2.5in lift with the tire size I'm running, and I certainly won't be running anything larger in the future, so I definitely recommend the 2.5in lift.

 

[zucariniwalter]

You won't need extended lines, bump stops def not a diff drop for a 2WD and I ran stock shocks (Monroe) on my 2.5 inch daystar lift and it rode pretty nice.

Hi, Slow_T4R i was searching some Lift info over this forum, and i found we follow each other at Instagram, maybe you could answer some of my questions about lift.

I drive a 2002 4runner SR5 2WD, stock everything and BFGoodrich All Terrain 265/75/16, No rubbing, i drive 100% on road, and i want lift just for the look, here in my country found some Lift Spacers kit made of aluminium for just 14$ dollars very cheap at US dollar currency rate.

i have stock shocks, springs 12 years old, they feel fine but im afraid of damage something with the lift kit.

down here even the stock shock/springs are expensive so i don't want to screw those. what do you think?

 

[absalom]

If it's not too late to talk you out of a spacer lift, I'd like to try.

It will ride like crap. Skittering all over the highway, bouncing off road imperfections, ultra-stiff, crap.

That being said, if you still want spacers, I have a Daystar kit for $80.

If you're willing to open the wallet just a tad more, you could run TRD Tundra strut/springs, and some used Land Cruiser 7 wraps.

 

[Scramble]

I was thinking about coils but could not get the needed info and frankly do not want to spend the money for the new coils

thanks for your help

I did my lift along with other suspension parts by searching this forum. All the info you need is here.

Dont get spacers, just buy 1999 (Tall) springs & it will ride beautifully.

 

[c310sar]

I went with the daystar 2.5 lift on mine bud.. this was about a year ago now. when i first did it, my mechanic tried to advice me to change out the rear shocks before installing the lift due to lack of length. I still installed it without the rear shocks being replaced and it came out fine. The look was enough to convince me I had "lifted" it. Being that it is about a year or maybe a little over now, I have noticed that this lift has become less of a 2.5 raise. In the beginning I remember having to hop into my 4runner (no running boards) and now its much easier getting in. Ive noticed my Gf doesnt struggle to jump in anymore either. mY point is, it will lower after time as expected. The material these spacers are made out of are some kind of hard-plastic/rubber type, so they will cringe up and lower your car.
as for changing stuff out, I didnt have to change a thing.

hope this helps

 

[1985taylor1925]

Op, I think I can offer you some helpful advice.

For onroad driving a spacer lift is fine. Frankly, for off road driving a spacer lift is fine. Unless you are planning on doing some heavy off roading and rock crawling (which you are not), or you are planning on towing/hauling, then you dont need additional wheel travel and the spacer lift will be fine.

There are some misunderstandings about spacers. For the rear, all spacers are the same, in that they simply add more material between the coil and frame. They dont preload the rear coils, and do not reduce suspension travel. They will however extend your shocks by the exact distance of the spacer you add and change the angle of the panhard bar.

For the front, there are two types of spacers. One goes inside the top hat, and therefore preloads the coil. You dont want that type of spacer. Go with the kind that sits between the coilover and mount. This will have no affect on ride quality.

I ran a 2" rear lift with KYB shocks years ago, and it worked fine on road. Im currently running the daystar 1.5" rear spacer with oem 99 coils in the back, and it works very well on road. But I wouldnt run a 2.5" spacer with the KYBs. That would really be pushing it.

I would suggest running the 1.5" spacer front and back for several reasons. 1) Any more than that and you really start to affect the angle of the panhard bar, offsetting the axel. This will make the ride less stable on road, especially at highway speeds. You will also be putting more stress on the sway bar links and u joint. That will cause more highway vibrations. 2) A 2.5" lift wont look right unless you put bigger tires on. Same thing for the front. A 2.5" will put more stress on the lower ball joints by adding much more angle to the a arms. Putting more angle on the control arms is not ideal for on road driving, though being a 2x4 you dont have to worry about cv angle which would be nice.

Conclusion: go with the 1.5" spacer, make sure the front is not the type that preloads the coil (unless you want a much stiffer ride up front). Throw it on and be done

 

[1985taylor1925]

I went with the daystar 2.5 lift on mine bud.. this was about a year ago now. when i first did it, my mechanic tried to advice me to change out the rear shocks before installing the lift due to lack of length. I still installed it without the rear shocks being replaced and it came out fine. The look was enough to convince me I had "lifted" it. Being that it is about a year or maybe a little over now, I have noticed that this lift has become less of a 2.5 raise. In the beginning I remember having to hop into my 4runner (no running boards) and now its much easier getting in. Ive noticed my Gf doesnt struggle to jump in anymore either. mY point is, it will lower after time as expected. The material these spacers are made out of are some kind of hard-plastic/rubber type, so they will cringe up and lower your car.
as for changing stuff out, I didnt have to change a thing.

hope this helps

How many miles on your rear coils? I can assure that the daystar spacer has not squished any. Just look at it and youll be able to tell. Your truck is lowering because the coils are sagging, which the rear spacer plays no part in. The fact that the coils are sagging within the last year is simply coincidental. Chances are it was already sagging before you added the rear spacer

 

[D Farms]

I feel like this is a perfectly fine way to lift our trucks, its a top plate spacer on the stock coilovers and all it does is moves the ride height, our trucks have slightly progressive springs that become stiff if you use a preload spacer or the bilstein style adjustable shocks. this lift setup simply changes the spring position. the tundra shock is a bit longer anyways and does this as well.

 

[1985taylor1925]

I feel like this is a perfectly fine way to lift our trucks, its a top plate spacer on the stock coilovers and all it does is moves the ride height, our trucks have slightly progressive springs that become stiff if you use a preload spacer or the bilstein style adjustable shocks. this lift setup simply changes the spring position. the tundra shock is a bit longer anyways and does this as well.

Exactly. Spacer simply changes the location of coils. But where are you getting that the 3rd gen coils are progressive?

 

[D Farms]

pretty much all coils that have a taper are progressive, but they are only slightly taper on the bottoms.