Goodies in the mail

[IanB]

"really nice speakers"? All things considered, they are pretty entry-level. Not to mention now you are getting highs from two different locations, which could cause some imaging problems.

But, if you like 'em and they sound good to you, that's what matters!

I don't plan on hooking up the factory tweeters when I install my co-ax speakers in the front doors, do people actually do that?

 

[Shawn5800]

I prefer the highs from the tweeters coming from the factory location on the doors. To get the feel of "loud" music you don't have to crank the stereo up...therefore increasing the chances for quality issues.

Think of sound like you would light, you would not point a flashlight two feet below the project your working on right? Point that flashlight directly on your intended project (in this case our ears) Using the stock tweeter location as opposed to in door is much better imo.

 

[OnTheEllipse]

I don't plan on hooking up the factory tweeters when I install my co-ax speakers in the front doors, do people actually do that?

does the woofer get the full signal and an inline crossover on the tweeter?

I just finished a pretty intensive install on my Subaru and told myself I'd not get into that with the 4Runner. However, if I could just pop a decent coax in place of the woofer and not worry about mounting a crossover, I'd do that.

 

[IanB]

does the woofer get the full signal and an inline crossover on the tweeter?

I just finished a pretty intensive install on my Subaru and told myself I'd not get into that with the 4Runner. However, if I could just pop a decent coax in place of the woofer and not worry about mounting a crossover, I'd do that.

That's the only way that makes any sense to me, the tweeter isn't getting a signal directly from the head unit, there is a right front and a left front set of speaker wires coming from the headunit. At some point there is a passive crossover that splits that signal to the separate woofer and tweeter in the stock stereo. You just need to take your signal before that crossover, and feed the signal into your new co-ax speakers. Easy peasy.

If you want to get technical, as far as front soundstage is concerned, you want the highs coming from the same area as the lows, so the high mounted tweeter isn't sonically accurate in the factory setup anyways.

That being said, if I wasn't hung up on running speakers off the deck and wanted to add an amp, I would have gone with a component set for the front and used that stock tweeter mounting spot, just cause it's there.

 

[OnTheEllipse]

That's the only way that makes any sense to me, the tweeter isn't getting a signal directly from the head unit, there is a right front and a left front set of speaker wires coming from the headunit. At some point there is a passive crossover that splits that signal to the separate woofer and tweeter in the stock stereo. You just need to take your signal before that crossover, and feed the signal into your new co-ax speakers. Easy peasy.

I think the inline crossover/cap at the tweeter is probably how it is in this car (pretty common).

If you want to get technical, as far as front soundstage is concerned, you want the highs coming from the same area as the lows, so the high mounted tweeter isn't sonically accurate in the factory setup anyways.

That being said, if I wasn't hung up on running speakers off the deck and wanted to add an amp, I would have gone with a component set for the front and used that stock tweeter mounting spot, just cause it's there.

The stock tweeter spot is tempting, but I'm not going to mess with it in this car. I have active crossovers with digital domain time delays in my Subaru, so it was easier to dial in without physical point source positioning of the tweeters, but I don't have that luxury (or care) in this car. I think I'll toss in some head unit powered Polk dBi's and be done with it.

 

[BrianSD_42]

:rockthrow:

I don't plan on hooking up the factory tweeters when I install my co-ax speakers in the front doors, do people actually do that?

If we are talking about installing a two or three way speaker in the door and keeping the factory tweeters active by wiring them in parallel ... then don't do it unless you want to burn down your car to the sound of blown tweeters .

 

[IanB]

:rockthrow:

If we are talking about installing a two or three way speaker in the door and keeping the factory tweeters active by wiring them in parallel ... then don't do it unless you want to burn down your car to the sound of blown tweeters .

1st off, I have no plans of hooking up the factory tweeters, as stated.

2ndly, how would that blow tweeters let alone burn the truck down? I'm thinking it would just change the resistance on those channels from 4ohm to 2 ohm, wouldn't it? If the load is too much for the deck to drive it would shut off, right?

Not that I think this is a good idea, once again.

 

[SantaCruzRunner]

Update,
I got the new mounts for the back speakers and will be putting them in either tomorrow or monday. Pics will be up.

 

[BrianSD_42]

1st off, I have no plans of hooking up the factory tweeters, as stated.

2ndly, how would that blow tweeters let alone burn the truck down? I'm thinking it would just change the resistance on those channels from 4ohm to 2 ohm, wouldn't it? If the load is too much for the deck to drive it would shut off, right?

I should have been more clear

I only mentioned this because a friend of mine once hooked them up as I described above.

If wired into a deck, it may cause the deck to short out, break or cause a fire.

If wired that way into a amp, the amp will most likely just shut off, clip-out at higher volumes.

Very few 4 channel amps (& no head units I know of) are fully functional at 2 ohms.

Basically don't wire door speakers in parallel unless you really know what you are doing.

 

[SkidPalace]

Unscrew the black screw inside door handle. Pop off the handle that you close the door with cover (look at it at eye level if you have to). Unscrew the two screws in that. Pop out the two pop rivets on the door. One on top right. One on side of door. Reach down to bottom of door and pull straight out. Should hear popping sound. Do this all the way around. Push the plastic door handle opener forward (I believe) to loosen it. Lift door up to get off of door lock. Twist entire door to get over handle (I don't take handle off).

Take your time. Tell yourself itll take several hours. Be careful of breakage when taken door off the above mentioned way.

Before you do this, make sure you do NOT just pull all of the clips out all the way around the door. The one just above and to the front of the speaker is not a pull-out clip. It is meant to stay in and you just key the door panel into it. Just leave it alone and it undoes itself when you push the door panel up to unhook from the window edge. Both of mine are broken of just like the pics in OP's writeup. Look at the broken panel piece still on the clip to the right of the unclipped orange tweeter lead.
Lousy design if you ask me.

I just installed the same fronts and I do like the sound. Agreed these are not spectacular speakers, but they sound noticeably (not dramatically) better than stock. For $50 it is a no-brainer. The best part being that the bass that does not fall apart and get muddy when you drive the stock head unit with a decent amount of bass adjustment. Of course you do have to turn the fader mostly to the front now. For this reason I will get the rears to match so I can set the fade back to normal to utilize the wasted rear channels amp power.