Grease Gun Slinger
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bulldog-yota
New member
I just got the big grease guns with flexible hose connectors. I got 2 one for the normal lithium blah blah grease and one for the moly lithium grease (slip joints).
I dont know the packaging of the Toy grease, I just got the spec lithium grease from the auto store.
I dont know the packaging of the Toy grease, I just got the spec lithium grease from the auto store.
G3 Trout Runner
New member
What Kind of prices are we talking about if I was to get the gun and some grease?
Thanks,
G3 Trout Runner
Thanks,
G3 Trout Runner
bulldog-yota
New member
The guns are anything from 10 -40. I got these as they work pretty nice
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00920379000
Grease is anything from 5-12, but get the lithium, GLI-2 stuff. One Moly and one not. I didn't bother to get the syn stuff as I couldn't get anything that stated whether they are lithium, GLI-2 ,oly or not.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&pid=00920379000
Grease is anything from 5-12, but get the lithium, GLI-2 stuff. One Moly and one not. I didn't bother to get the syn stuff as I couldn't get anything that stated whether they are lithium, GLI-2 ,oly or not.
greasefingers
New member
The key to easy access is the flexible hose that people have mentioned. It minimizes starting and engine several times and rotating the shafts to re-position those Zerks. You will still have to do this but it will help some. I try to eliminate getting in & out of the vehicle, as much as possible. Especially when there is an opportunity for grease to stick to you.
<<<<
Senior Member
I'm going to store tomorow, getting a gun and ammo... o, I mean grease, and going to attack those pesky zerks. 
I'm in South of KC, Ricnkc but work in KCMO, long drive but it's all fun... I see some 4-R's in the area but rarely. If you see one with the Trident on Right rear splash guard honk at me...
I'm in South of KC, Ricnkc but work in KCMO, long drive but it's all fun... I see some 4-R's in the area but rarely. If you see one with the Trident on Right rear splash guard honk at me...
Bobby
New member
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=37573
$29.99
I'm gonna have to order one.
$29.99
I'm gonna have to order one.
MicaBlue03
Member
Greasing suggestions
Greasing the prop shafts (universal and slip joints) isn't too tough, but I found a number of opportunities for confusion.
Grease types: The guys at the local dealers were clueless about the two grease types called out in the Toyota repair manual. After some quizzing it became clear that they simply have a lube supplier that comes in once in a while and fills their guns. One type of grease only, and they don't know a thing about it. I could buy only a single name-brand grease from their parts shop, and it wasn't what their mechanics actually used. I looked all around and wasn't able to find both greases the repair manuals called out, so I simply bought the expensive synthetic (premium multipurpose Mobil 1) kind and used that.
Joint types: For the new generation 4Runners, the repair manuals describe greasing the double-cardan (did I get the spelling right?) joints, but the vehicle doesn't have them anymore. Even the updates to the 2003 repair manuals didn't correct things. Also no mention of the Torsen center differential. Maybe the newer repair manuals are better.
Gun types: I'd recommend a full-sized (14 oz) pistol-grip gun with a flexible hose. I didn't need the extra pressure capability of the traditional lever-type gun, and the pistol grip allowed me to hold the gun with one hand while I positioned the tip on the zerk fitting with the other.
Misc stuff: 1) The first time, it was a bear to remove the gun tip from each zerk fitting. It went on fine, but didn't want to come off. Prying wasn't much help, but wiggling a lot finally did it. Maybe it was just the paint on the zerk. 2) The spiders (the active parts of the hooke-type universal joints) took only a few shots of grease each, but the slip joints took a bunch the first time. I've heard that these joints aren't really filled at the factory, and I can believe it. 3) What's with the instructions to always check the torque on the (many!) prop shaft bolts whenever you grease? The bolts seemed way tighter than the torque specs, and none of them were even thinking about going loose. It's hard to believe they'll ever need tightening. 4) Take a rag under the vehicle with you and wipe up any grease squeezed out during the greasing. You don't want it attracting dirt down there or making its way onto the exhaust system and stinking.
Greasing the prop shafts (universal and slip joints) isn't too tough, but I found a number of opportunities for confusion.
Grease types: The guys at the local dealers were clueless about the two grease types called out in the Toyota repair manual. After some quizzing it became clear that they simply have a lube supplier that comes in once in a while and fills their guns. One type of grease only, and they don't know a thing about it. I could buy only a single name-brand grease from their parts shop, and it wasn't what their mechanics actually used. I looked all around and wasn't able to find both greases the repair manuals called out, so I simply bought the expensive synthetic (premium multipurpose Mobil 1) kind and used that.
Joint types: For the new generation 4Runners, the repair manuals describe greasing the double-cardan (did I get the spelling right?) joints, but the vehicle doesn't have them anymore. Even the updates to the 2003 repair manuals didn't correct things. Also no mention of the Torsen center differential. Maybe the newer repair manuals are better.
Gun types: I'd recommend a full-sized (14 oz) pistol-grip gun with a flexible hose. I didn't need the extra pressure capability of the traditional lever-type gun, and the pistol grip allowed me to hold the gun with one hand while I positioned the tip on the zerk fitting with the other.
Misc stuff: 1) The first time, it was a bear to remove the gun tip from each zerk fitting. It went on fine, but didn't want to come off. Prying wasn't much help, but wiggling a lot finally did it. Maybe it was just the paint on the zerk. 2) The spiders (the active parts of the hooke-type universal joints) took only a few shots of grease each, but the slip joints took a bunch the first time. I've heard that these joints aren't really filled at the factory, and I can believe it. 3) What's with the instructions to always check the torque on the (many!) prop shaft bolts whenever you grease? The bolts seemed way tighter than the torque specs, and none of them were even thinking about going loose. It's hard to believe they'll ever need tightening. 4) Take a rag under the vehicle with you and wipe up any grease squeezed out during the greasing. You don't want it attracting dirt down there or making its way onto the exhaust system and stinking.
