GROUP BUY - Outpost Off Road – OPOR slider Group BUY
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4Runrrun'n
New member
I finally wrapped up my install this morning. This was on a 4th gen with RCI skid plates front to back. Here are my impressions:
Specific to RCI Skids:
- You'll need to modify your slider foot that wraps under the frame so that it doesn't interfere with your RCI skid crossmember. See pics below:
-You'll need to modify the rectangular silver bracket used for the center foot for the driver's side to avoid interfering with the RCI skid crossmember. The reason you only have to do it on driver's side is because the brake line position prevents you from being able to rotate it so that the long side is horizontal. Note the pic below is of the passenger side which I didn't have to cut, but I did because I didn't know better at the time. It shows the clearance issue, but again on the passenger side you could rotate it around to make it work and be okay as there are no brake lines interfering.
- You may or may not need to drop the fuel skid plate to get enough clearance to fit the U-Bolt around the back side of the frame. I had to to do so.
GENERAL OBSERVATIONS
The quality of these seems terrific. I like both the fit and the function these sliders provide and I think at the price they're about the best value out there for my particular needs. No regrets about this purchase whatsoever.
This was much more involved than I imagined it would be. It is officially a bolt on, but it's not as simple as a couple of wrenches and a couple hours in the garage. This included for me 2 or 3 trips to a hardware store, and a trip to a specialty store to find the right size bits. Outside of the painting/prep of the sliders, I probably spent 6+ hours on this install, not counting all the errand trips. The first one took me about 4 hours, the second about 2 taking what I learned on the first go-round. Keep in mind, some of these annoyances are due to running aftermarket skids that cause more hassle with installation.
In the instructions it notes that an 11/16" hole needs to be drilled for the center foot (bolt that goes up through the bottom into bottom of frame into rivet nut). They note you have to install the slider to mark the location. My truck already had a hole here in this location. I'd assume all do, but maybe not. I simply had to enlarge it.
Rivet nuts are a complete headache. Having no experience doing rivet nuts kind of makes it tough to get it right on your first try. As you might imagine, I didn't. When I tried to remove the bolt from the rivet nut installed on the front leg, the rivet nut turned inside the frame. :redbrick:
After some more quality time with the grinder that I got more use out of on this project than I think I have in years, I punched the rivet back through and into the frame and then fished it out. I ended up going another route. I'm not going to recommend it, but I'm pleased with it. I basically used a magnet to pull the bolt from a larger hole within the frame within which it could pass and pulled it through the hole drilled in the frame and then threaded my nut and washers on it from the outside, holding it for tightening with vice grips. Obviously this buggers the threads a bit on the end of the bolt, but I'll consider it a sacrificial bolt if I ever need to remove it. BTW, if you go this route, such a large hole as is needed for the rivet nut isn't necessary. Picture below:
Luckily I had less trouble with the larger rivet nuts, but still don't consider myself proficient at it. I would recommend anyone that is nervous using these rivet nuts to consider buying 2 or 3 practice nuts to use on a piece of steel where you can see and feel what's happening as the rivet crushes into shape. I watched a couple of youtube videos, but still managed to screw up. I suspect on the my first attempt I put too much torque on it and somehow rotated the rivet within the frame and then I was SOL. One other trick I saw online in the event your rivet nut is just spinning in the frame before you can get it to crush in on the back side was to use these little locking washers. You put them between the surface of the rivet and your spacer (oversized nut) to put a bite on the lip of the rivet to keep it from spinning until it begins to crush as you tighten the bolt into the rivet threads. They worked great. Can be found at your local hardware store:
With regard to chasing the factory threads in the front top bolt hole as is recommended in the instructions, I found it wasn't necessary. My truck has never been subjected to any meaningful amount of corrosive material, so if yours has, the instructions should probably be followed. On the first one I did chase the threads. But they didn't seem that dirty and it was a bit of a PITA due to the clearance. So on the next side I simply used some WD40 and the bolt and ran it in and out a couple of times, cleaning the threads each time. By then I could thread by hand. Use discretion and obviously if you feel the bolt not going in smoothly or tightening up, take appropriate precautions.
Tips:
Use jack stands (with blocks to avoid scratching your new paint) to help hold your slider in place if working alone. Depending on the height of your rig, a 5 gallon bucket also may put it pretty close to where you need it.
Don't tighten your bolts until you have them all in and partially threaded. The instructions say to tighten the center large bolt first. Given my uneasiness about the rivet nut, I did thread this in until it started to get some tension, but then tightened my front bolts. Then I went after the rears, then the lower bolt on the center foot and finally the horizontal bolt on the center foot. I used a jack to make sure the slider was positioned where I wanted it while tightening the hardware.
If you take as long as I do with this stuff, put a charger on your battery or you'll run it down listening to the classic rock. :doh:
Good luck!
Thank you ARunner for figuring this out and posting it up for those of us with 4th gens and RCI skids
End product looks great!!!
jbjones85
New member
a few installed pictures. Still waiting on the rear drivers side bracket to come in but can still install without it.
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/D...BRulhjc2GSflqUgSCplRfQe1d4D22y0cs47XBZvI=s480
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O...ADDyNibFK9vJIxA2cxkQA8g24HrKQAVhIHvH0lL8=s480
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/D...BRulhjc2GSflqUgSCplRfQe1d4D22y0cs47XBZvI=s480
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/O...ADDyNibFK9vJIxA2cxkQA8g24HrKQAVhIHvH0lL8=s480
Sliders Installed on LE and Questions
Got my sliders installed today. It took my friend and I about 3 hours. The hardest part was figuring out how they installed on the frame and then getting the bolts started and wrenched in using the gussets.
I have a few questions for those of you who have them installed on a LE (2 legs):
1) The plate on each foot has 3 holes...
Overall, I am very happy with the sliders. The powder coating from Metal Tech was very good and the extra wrapping and packaging kept the finish flawless during shipping.
Seems like if I had mud flaps, I would have had enough room on the front and back without pinching the mud flaps. I read on some posts that their mudflaps were pinched. Wonder if I had a an updated design or if the LE is different.
Thanks and good luck to the rest of you during your installs.
Got my sliders installed today. It took my friend and I about 3 hours. The hardest part was figuring out how they installed on the frame and then getting the bolts started and wrenched in using the gussets.
I have a few questions for those of you who have them installed on a LE (2 legs):
1) The plate on each foot has 3 holes...
- I found 3 threaded holes in the frame for the driver's side rear, but only 2 holes on the driver's front and both the passenger side rear and front. Is that right?
2) What gap do you have between the slider frame and your rocker panel?- I put a 3/8" spacer on the front and rear part of the slider where the LE rocker curves down, but this left a ~3/4" gap in the middle. Is that too much? I want to leave enough room to flex when using a hi-lift jack, but I also want to maximize my ground clearance.
3) Did you have extra bolts (8mm and 3/8") left after your install?Overall, I am very happy with the sliders. The powder coating from Metal Tech was very good and the extra wrapping and packaging kept the finish flawless during shipping.
Seems like if I had mud flaps, I would have had enough room on the front and back without pinching the mud flaps. I read on some posts that their mudflaps were pinched. Wonder if I had a an updated design or if the LE is different.
Thanks and good luck to the rest of you during your installs.
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mattr
New member
That's correct. The 3rd hole is so you can put the X-REAS clip you removed to install the sliders back in place in the frame. This confused me as well.
Mine is not even because I'm having too much run on the front mud flap. I haven't had time to mess around with it yet, but I'll likely end up trimming or removing the mud flap.
Once they sent me the correct hardware (I got the trail hardware the first time) I had zero leftover anything. Double check the hardware list in the instructions to make sure you were sent extras and didn't miss a step.
I'm not able to get the front of my sliders as tight to the body as I would like because of this. There's really no forward / back adjustment on these, it might be a 14+ thing for me?
[/QUOTE]
Thanks mattr.
So you just have 2x 8mm bolts per foot (4 bolts per side)? I hope that these are strong enough to hold the weight of the vehicle when I use the hi-lift. I know there are gussets, but I am surprised that is all there is supporting the slider when the other kits have 3 legs.
Are you planning to have the slider base touch your rocker panels or are you going to leave a gap too? On the 2013 LE, it looks like the lower part of my rocker panel has some play/give so I could possibly get closer.
So you just have 2x 8mm bolts per foot (4 bolts per side)? I hope that these are strong enough to hold the weight of the vehicle when I use the hi-lift. I know there are gussets, but I am surprised that is all there is supporting the slider when the other kits have 3 legs.
Are you planning to have the slider base touch your rocker panels or are you going to leave a gap too? On the 2013 LE, it looks like the lower part of my rocker panel has some play/give so I could possibly get closer.
mattr
New member
Just the two bolts going into the frame for each leg, then the additional 2 bolts holding the gusset to the slider, you've got those in there as well right?
I think 3 legs would be better / stronger. I haven't tried to jack it up yet but I plan do it on solid ground slowly and inspect everything before I try it on the trail.
Here you can see all 4 bolts on one leg:
I will have a gap no matter what, there's bound to be at least a tiny bit of movement if you're going to ever use these as sliders, I'd much rather have a little gap to allow for that than risk contacting the rocker panels even if it costs a little ground clearance below the sliders.
Yup, I got the 2 frame bolts and the the 2 gusset bolts installed. Except in the rear of the drivers side where I put in an extra bolt because the frame hole behind it was threaded. I will likely remove it and put in the xreas clip like you say.
Do you happen to have a picture taken from the other direction where you have your xreas clips installed?
Also, I see your brake line is pushing tight against the gusset just like mine. I thought I might be putting too much pressure on the line.
mattr
New member
I don't have a picture from the other direction, to be honest I might not have put the clip back in there. I am not actually using X-REAS any more since I put in the Fox suspension so the lines are just there to help lower my centre of gravity
I tried running the line over the gusset at first but it seemed like there was less stress on the line to run through it. The instructions weren't that great and only mentioned the X-REAS lines so I just guessed this was the best way to go.
thetechnolust
New member
Just a quick Pic Update
Got mine installed, got the raw sliders and did a hammered black finish. Mine arrived unscathed and with all the parts needed. Truck has KDSS but in all took me about 2 hours to install and align.
IMG_0083 by Josh, on Flickr
IMG_0081 by Josh, on Flickr
IMG_0080 by Josh, on Flickr
Got mine installed, got the raw sliders and did a hammered black finish. Mine arrived unscathed and with all the parts needed. Truck has KDSS but in all took me about 2 hours to install and align.
IMG_0083 by Josh, on FlickrIMG_0081 by Josh, on FlickrIMG_0080 by Josh, on Flickr
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davester00
New member
Torque Specs on bolts for OPOR Gen 5 sliders
I was wondering if anyone has installed their OPOR sliders on a gen 5.
I was wondering what torque specs you guys are using on your bolts. Just called Metal Tech and the nice lady on the phone said "we don't have torque specs, just tighten until snug." I have a really hard time with this since I chronically over-tighten things.
Anyone with a recommendation in ft/lbs on what "until snug" means.
Thanks in advance.
I was wondering if anyone has installed their OPOR sliders on a gen 5.
I was wondering what torque specs you guys are using on your bolts. Just called Metal Tech and the nice lady on the phone said "we don't have torque specs, just tighten until snug." I have a really hard time with this since I chronically over-tighten things.
Anyone with a recommendation in ft/lbs on what "until snug" means.
Thanks in advance.
jbjones85
New member
I need to install my KDSS bracket in the couple of days and will put a tq. wrench on mine to see what I did mine to but I want to say around 70.
thetechnolust
New member
If you are curious I use the following to calculate the maximum tq a bolt can handle by grade and size https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/bolts/US-Recommended-Torque.aspx these value are the reccomended tq based on the hardware so you will want to be in that neighborhood. I don't recall the bolt size that rating (3/8 maybe, assuming grade 8, i hope) This puts the recommend tq at around 33-37 ft-lbs according to the hardware (thread dependant), mind you tq specs can be and are application dependent. But if none are given I would use the hardware specs as a ballpark and go from there.
Rob71
New member
who painted for you and what was the cost?
thetechnolust
New member
Me, $25 and a Saturday afternoon. Oh and a tent to keep the wind/dust away. Its all about prep, primer and cleaning.
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