Here is a list of the components that I installed when I did my suspension overhaul.
FRS 883-06-130 Fox 2.5" Factory Series Coil-Over Pair, Remote Reservoir, DSC Adjuster
FRS 985-26-116 Fox 2.0" Remote Reservoir Rear Shock with CD Adjuster
ROK RM43017 Rear Lower Trailing Arms
1A Auto OEM Replacement Front Lower Control Arms
I also replaced the front sway-bar end-links, as well as brake rotors and pads at all 4 corners.
Here's a pic of some of that stuff.
Some things that I ran into.
Adjusting the pre-load collars on these coil overs was a MAJOR pain in the ass. The tolerance between the threads on the shock body and the preload collar is extremely tight. In fact, I'd wager that the tolerances on the collar did not take into account surface build-up from the anodizing operation, and the resulting fit is much tighter than it should be.
One of the coilovers was MUCH more difficult to adjust than the other, and required that we put a set of spring compressors on to reduce friction in the threads. The spring compressor lugs also had to be ground down so that they'd fit between the relatively narrow coil spacing of the Fox spring. We used a LOT of anti-seize and a LOT of elbow grease to get mine adjusted. We backed the collar almost all the way up on the one side so that we could get good anti-seize coverage on the threads before really reefing on it to adjust back downward.
Mid way through, we learned a valuable lesson about which spanner hole to use when trying to adjust the pre-load collar. It's very important which spanner hole you engage on the collar, depending on which way you're trying to spin it. Depending on which side of the collar opening you're on, and which way you're trying to spin it, the action of the spanner pin will either be trying to "pry open" the collar, or "push closed" the collar around the shock body. You want to spin from the hole that will "open" the collar gap and reduce thread friction. This made a HUGE difference. It's a bit difficult to convey in words, and if you've adjusted coil-overs like this before you may have discovered it on your own, but I can try to elaborate more if you want.
Also of note: A 5/16" pin punch can be used in place of the Fox Adjustment tool. However caution should be exercised as not to damage the pre-load collar.
The driver's side reservoir mounting bracket needed to have one of the holes enlarged so that it aligned with the mounting hole in the frame. The passenger side may have as well, I don't recall. Not a big deal, just something to be aware of. So have a drill handy. The mounting bolts for the reservoir brackets will self-thread into their respective frame holes if you install them with an impact gun. You can try tapping the holes by hand and putting the bolts in manually but that'd be another ass pain that's easily avoided.
Orientation of the reservoirs on the mounting brackets wasn't what I'd call "obvious" from the instruction manual. The way that Fox arranged the hard fittings between the shock body and the reservoir leaves a little to be desired I think. Specifically the way the 90 degree elbow comes out of the reservoir body. I wasn't about to go cracking them loose to rearrange them though. I think it would have been better if they made the hose long enough to make a nice U shape that goes under the UCA then back up far enough so that you can mount the reservoir with the adjustment knobs facing up. But I digress..
There's really only one way that the reservoir can be arranged, but it doesn't necessarily look or "feel" like the right way, when you're putting them in place.
Because of how the hose fittings and connections are arranged, the hose takes that weird shape as you move the reservoir into place. Pay attention to how far it bulges out below the UCA. Depending on how high you mount the reservoir and at what angle it sits when you tighten down the clamps, the hose may contact the inside wall of your tire. For some reason my driver's side tire was much closer than on the passenger side and would actually touch the hose at full right turn lock. I had to shift the reservoir down slightly to take some of the "bulge" out of that lower bend in the hose to gain tire clearances. Notice where the top of the reservoir is in relation to the clamp on the driver's side vs. the passenger side. Also, on both sides, the 90 degree fitting coming out of the reservoir has to be right up against the frame.
Because of the weird looking hose path, it looks like the hose may come into contact with the underside of the UCA, but at full suspension droop there is actually about 3/8" of clearance between them.
You'll want to verify this stuff on your own setup as well, as all trucks are probably a little bit different.
Passenger side Reservoir Mounting
Driver's side mounting
Another helpful thing to note is the ratio of adjustment from the actual tire to the coil-over. It's approximately 2:1. So if you adjust your coil-over preload collar down by .5 inches, then it raises the suspension height at that corner by 1 full inch.
The Lower spring perch of the 2.5" coil-overs interfered significantly with the sway bar, even with the sway bar relocating blocks installed. A majority of the interference was between the stud of the end-link hitting the lower edge of the actual coil, and the lower spring perch on driver's side.
So the sway bar can either be removed, or you can figure out a way to work around it.
I bent out the ends of my sway bar to add clearance. Then also ground down the excess threaded studs of the end links so that it was flush with the nut. I wouldn't recommend that unless you have an impact gun to get the nuts back off. I also had to add a split collar to the sway bar to keep it from shifting laterally (side to side) as the suspension flexed. I found that my sway bar had a tendency to shift within the mounts towards the driver's side, resulting in lots of clearance on the drivers side and interference on the passenger side.
This pic shows the resulting clearance after I did the stuff above (reference blue line). Still not a lot, but enough.
Nothing too crazy to deal with for the rear shocks. You can see how I positioned the reservoirs in the first pic above, as well as below. I did it that way in an effort to maximize clearance between the rear lower links, the parking brake cable, and the rear sway bar.
In this pic you can kind of see that there's a fairly narrow window between the parking brake cable and the rear lower link where the shock and its reservoir need to live. The lower link, the cable, and the rear axle make a narrow "triangle" gap that you can make out in the picture. That's the window.
Another thing I did to help with parking brake cable clearance was to tweak the sheet metal cable guide in a way that moved it away from the up/down path of the reservoir body. Adding a couple of zip-ties forward of the cable guide helped as well. This was done on both sides.
Here's another view showing the orientation of the reservoir relative to the shock body. You can also get a feel for how close the reservoir ends up being to the lower link and the parking brake cable.
