Guzzling Gas

joshenator

New member
So before y'all chop my head off for not using the search feature know that I have for the last month or so. My newish to me 06 4runner (V6 121k) has only been getting 11-13 miles to a gallon. I have kept up with oil changes in the 6 months I've had it, replaced plugs put in a k&n intake, changed diff fluids, cleaned the MAF and throttle body and used some injector cleaner all with no effect on gas consumption. I do mostly short trips back and forth to work with some highway here or there. I'm mostly mechanically inclined, just wondering if there's something I have overlooked here. Any input would be appreciated.
 
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Dragging brake?

You know I thought about that. I pulled the front wheels off and turned the rotors by hand, there was a rubbing sound as I turned them. I was able to turn them with no problem at all. Haven't got to the back tires yet. Should I not hear anything when I turn the rotors?
 
You know I thought about that. I pulled the front wheels off and turned the rotors by hand, there was a rubbing sound as I turned them. I was able to turn them with no problem at all. Haven't got to the back tires yet. Should I not hear anything when I turn the rotors?

No idea, sorry about that. Still new to working on my own car :)

Given the history 4Runner's have with seized brakes it seemed like the next reasonable place to look following the maintenance you've done. Sounds like its been awhile, at this point you would prob. start seeing wear on the rotor.

You could try doing a freeway run until the car warms up. Than put your hand near each of the rotors, if one is significantly warmer you likely have a brake issue.

Most places will do a free brake inspection, you could always ask for one.
 
How are you getting the 11-13mpg? Hand Calc? How many miles to the tank?

When I fill up I divide miles on my trip meter by number of gallons...if I remember off the top of my head my last tank was somewhere around 220 miles and filled up with 18-19 gallons. I don't trust the computer because right now it says I'm getting 16mpg.
 
Dragging brakes produce heat. Lots of it. Enough to burn your hand so don't check that way. If you have a non-contact thermometer (under thirty dollars at HF) that's a good way to check. Just Don't pop out of the vehicle in the wrong place with one of those in your hand. Might be mistaken for a weapon...
...mine run under a 100 degrees f for the most part. That's without heavy braking.

How short are your short trips? Are your spark plugs kind of carboned up?
Short trips are not the best thing. Does it get a chance to get fully warmed up?

Low tire pressure. I get 1 -2 mpg better if I go 8-10 psi over what the door sticker says. Make sure you tires can handle the pressure if you start pushing 50 psi.

Allignment that's way off can affect gas mileage. But you should be able to both feel anything that far off and there would be rapid tire wear.

Are you using top tier gas?

Speaking of gas. You didn't state where you are. Urban winter blends take their toll on mpg. Winter cold itself also has an effect. Here in Colorado when it gets down much below 20f I don't give it much mind.

Did you say K&N. I hate them. But that maybe just me. I do know they are very easy to over-oil. And over-oiling them sucks for gas mileage and could effect your MAF. So could cleaning it wrong, but I'm sure you didn't scrub it or such.

Dirty injectors? Have you run a can of sea-foam. I like doing it through the tank. Through the intake manifold scares the crap out of me.

Have you can it for any codes?
 
Dragging brakes produce heat. Lots of it. Enough to burn your hand so don't check that way. If you have a non-contact thermometer (under thirty dollars at HF) that's a good way to check. Just Don't pop out of the vehicle in the wrong place with one of those in your hand. Might be mistaken for a weapon...
...mine run under a 100 degrees f for the most part. That's without heavy braking.

How short are your short trips? Are your spark plugs kind of carboned up?
Short trips are not the best thing. Does it get a chance to get fully warmed up?

Low tire pressure. I get 1 -2 mpg better if I go 8-10 psi over what the door sticker says. Make sure you tires can handle the pressure if you start pushing 50 psi.

Allignment that's way off can affect gas mileage. But you should be able to both feel anything that far off and there would be rapid tire wear.

Are you using top tier gas?

Speaking of gas. You didn't state where you are. Urban winter blends take their toll on mpg. Winter cold itself also has an effect. Here in Colorado when it gets down much below 20f I don't give it much mind.

Did you say K&N. I hate them. But that maybe just me. I do know they are very easy to over-oil. And over-oiling them sucks for gas mileage and could effect your MAF. So could cleaning it wrong, but I'm sure you didn't scrub it or such.

Dirty injectors? Have you run a can of sea-foam. I like doing it through the tank. Through the intake manifold scares the crap out of me.

Have you can it for any codes?

Well I guess that gives me a reason to go buy another tool. I'm in CT so maybe winter gas...I was getting this mileage back in September so I don't know if that rules that out.
I let the car warm up before I start driving. All the other notion aren't applicable... good alignment and all.
I haven't had cel since I bought the vehicle...maybe I have some stored?
 
Josh, the way I understand it, it's most likely best not to idle modern engines to "warm up". In the old days carburetors and intake manifolds needed to be warm to get the proper "atomization" of the fuel mixture. With injection that is no longer the case. Modern engines dump lots of gas into a cool engine to get the cats going. Some say this rich fuel mixture will dilute the oil on the cylinder walls leading to premature wear. I'm not sure about that but it makes some sense. Besides you have to warmup other systems like trans steering fluid gear boxes ect. I think I give it about 30 seconds if temps are much lower than 15f or so maybe 2 minutes at most. I drive gently to till the temp gauge starts to move off the peg.
September, hum. When do you guys switch to winter blends on the east coast?
Non- contact termometers are cool but you can Check hub temps by holding the back of you hand an inch or two from the wheel. You should smell dragging brakes too.
 
Josh, the way I understand it, it's most likely best not to idle modern engines to "warm up". In the old days carburetors and intake manifolds needed to be warm to get the proper "atomization" of the fuel mixture. With injection that is no longer the case. Modern engines dump lots of gas into a cool engine to get the cats going. Some say this rich fuel mixture will dilute the oil on the cylinder walls leading to premature wear. I'm not sure about that but it makes some sense. Besides you have to warmup other systems like trans steering fluid gear boxes ect. I think I give it about 30 seconds if temps are much lower than 15f or so maybe 2 minutes at most. I drive gently to till the temp gauge starts to move off the peg.
September, hum. When do you guys switch to winter blends on the east coast?
Non- contact termometers are cool but you can Check hub temps by holding the back of you hand an inch or two from the wheel. You should smell dragging brakes too.

As far as when they switch to winter blend up here I've got no idea. Just got stationed up here in September, originally from TX, spent the last 6 years in southeast GA, didn't even know about winter blends til I got up here. I've read a lot about the whole warming up issue...I guess old habits die hard though. I think i'm going to look into the whole seafoam notion. If the rust I had to deal with on the underside is any indication of how the last owner took care of the truck I figure it can't hurt.
 
As far as when they switch to winter blend up here I've got no idea. Just got stationed up here in September, originally from TX, spent the last 6 years in southeast GA, didn't even know about winter blends til I got up here. I've read a lot about the whole warming up issue...I guess old habits die hard though. I think i'm going to look into the whole seafoam notion. If the rust I had to deal with on the underside is any indication of how the last owner took care of the truck I figure it can't hurt.


winter blend usually happens around thanksgiving here, sometimes earlier. the best way ive found to check for a stuck caliper is the back of the hand heat test, i just used this last week and rebuilt a caliper that was slightly stuck. where in CT are you located, i may be able to take a look
 
This doesn't help diagnose your problem, but I you should be getting better than that with the V6 in the northeast, even on winter gas, even with short trips- unless maybe you're incrementally drag racing the entire way.. Now I'm just thinking of the Top Gear where they try to run out of gas before getting to Chernobyl...

Without any codes that's difficult to diagnose. I know it's a contentious topic, but I +1 the "paper" filter over an oiled filter with a modern MAF vehicle.
 
winter blend usually happens around thanksgiving here, sometimes earlier. the best way ive found to check for a stuck caliper is the back of the hand heat test, i just used this last week and rebuilt a caliper that was slightly stuck. where in CT are you located, i may be able to take a look

I'm in Groton...I can wrap my head around using the back of my hand. I'll give it a shot, if it snows like they are saying it's going to I will go do some donuts and check it out. If your close enough by I will keep you in mind when I eventually do my lift. Gotta pay off the wife's van first.
 
I'm in Groton...I can wrap my head around using the back of my hand. I'll give it a shot, if it snows like they are saying it's going to I will go do some donuts and check it out. If your close enough by I will keep you in mind when I eventually do my lift. Gotta pay off the wife's van first.

sounds good, just let me know. i used to spend lots of time in that area during the summers.
 

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