Has anyone ever found a loose propeller shaft bolt?

I

Iowa4Runner

New member
After 13,000 miles my propeller shaft bolts aren't even close to coming loose. I applied the specified torque (and then some) but didn't budge them. I'm wondering... Has anyone ever found a propeller shaft bolt that needed torquing?
 
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Re: Re: Has anyone ever found a loose propeller shaft bolt?

Hitman said:
Were you expecting them to come loose?

If so, why?

If they are properly torqued from the beginning, they should never loosen on their own. I guess it couldn't hurt to check, though...
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Because the manual states to tighten them periodically!

So I'm curious too - this ever happen to anyone?
 
I've had mine checked a couple of times over the last 60,000 miles. Never loose. I tow trailers sometimes, and off road all the time.

What I did do which helped though, was to really grease the drive shaft slip joints. Until I took the time to really pump & pump Amsoil grease into the joint, I could feel the characteristic pop at a stop. I pumped until I could see the blue grease emerge from the other end of the joint. Flawless operation since then.
 
Yes - ditto on greasing it up & getting rid of the noise "pop." Wonder why they designed it like that!?
 
RL Lemke said:


What I did do which helped though, was to really grease the drive shaft slip joints. Until I took the time to really pump & pump Amsoil grease into the joint, I could feel the characteristic pop at a stop. I pumped until I could see the blue grease emerge from the other end of the joint. Flawless operation since then.
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what is this guy talking about? is he saiding if you pump the slip joint full of grease till it come out the other end of the drive shift it will get rid of that F%^&ing clunking noise when you take off after a complete stop on the drive shift?:confused:
 
TRD04RUNNER said:
what is this guy talking about? is he saiding if you pump the slip joint full of grease till it come out the other end of the drive shift it will get rid of that F%^&ing clunking noise when you take off after a complete stop on the drive shift?:confused:
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Yes, it stops the clunck. It works. Just do it.
 
TRD04RUNNER said:
what is this guy talking about? is he saiding if you pump the slip joint full of grease till it come out the other end of the drive shift it will get rid of that F%^&ing clunking noise when you take off after a complete stop on the drive shift?:confused:
Click to expand...

Yes. For some reason the spline shaft / slip joint in the rear driveline is insufficiently greased at the factory. Instead of sliding smoothly, it makes an occasional abrupt lurch. It's that clunk sound you hear when you'd swear someone bumped you from behind. Adding 10-20 pumps of grease into the appropriate zerk fitting solves the problem.

Check out:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13698&highlight=zerk
 
Iowa4Runner said:
Yes. For some reason the spline shaft / slip joint in the rear driveline is insufficiently greased at the factory. Instead of sliding smoothly, it makes an occasional abrupt lurch. It's that clunk sound you hear when you'd swear someone bumped you from behind. Adding 10-20 pumps of grease into the appropriate zerk fitting solves the problem.

Check out:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13698&highlight=zerk
Click to expand...


SWEET!! I been away from T4R.ORG too long! Feel good to be back on line again!:awais:
 
TRD04RUNNER said:
what is this guy talking about? is he saiding if you pump the slip joint full of grease till it come out the other end of the drive shift it will get rid of that F%^&ing clunking noise when you take off after a complete stop on the drive shift?:confused:
Click to expand...

It works like a champ. Just make sure you get to all the zerks. I use the waterproof Amsoil synthetic grease for these, and all other pivot joints.
 
RL Lemke said:
It works like a champ. Just make sure you get to all the zerks. I use the waterproof Amsoil synthetic grease for these, and all other pivot joints.
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Can you use the waterproof amsoil grease you use for the u-joint and slip joint too?? or do you use a different grease for each?
 
Iowa4Runner said:
Why are you so confident they don't need checking?
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Because with all the different vehicles that I have owned over the past 20 years, none of them had a loose U-joint bolt. This is my third 4x4 and I have driving them since 1988. However, I have worn out non-greasable U-joints.
 
TRD04RUNNER said:
Can you use the waterproof amsoil grease you use for the u-joint and slip joint too?? or do you use a different grease for each?
Click to expand...

I grease the drive shaft slip joints and the Total Chaos Upper Control Arms on the 4Runner. I also use it for the pivot points on my motorcycles. All slow moving high friction joints.

As opposed to wheel bearing grease.
 
RL Lemke said:
I grease the drive shaft slip joints and the Total Chaos Upper Control Arms on the 4Runner. I also use it for the pivot points on my motorcycles. All slow moving high friction joints.

As opposed to wheel bearing grease.
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What's a "Total Chaos" upper control arm?
 
What *IS* the specified torque value,

and where is this bolt? (or bolts, front and rear?)

I see that they want me to check it every 6 months. I've got a couple of VERY good wrenches, and don't want to let the dealer mess with it.

Thanks in advance! If it makes a difference, I've got a V8 "sport" from 2005.
 
Iowa4Runner said:
Yes. For some reason the spline shaft / slip joint in the rear driveline is insufficiently greased at the factory. Instead of sliding smoothly, it makes an occasional abrupt lurch. It's that clunk sound you hear when you'd swear someone bumped you from behind. Adding 10-20 pumps of grease into the appropriate zerk fitting solves the problem.

Check out:
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/showthread.php?s=&threadid=13698&highlight=zerk
Click to expand...

Never had a lose bolt either.

Just a note... there was a caution posted on another thread from a toyota engineer warning about ofer lubing the slip joint. If you over fill it, the slip joint my transfer enough shock to the transfer case to crack it. Give it only 3-6 good pumps....do NOT overfill.
 
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