Heater Valve Assembly R&R

[nissanh]

Recently I noticed some crust like material building up around the joint at the heater hose and valve assembly.

The 100 series landcruisers have a failing heater T that just fails due to age.

Based on this I decided to replace the heater valve assembly OEM from Amayama.com.

Heater valve assembly: 87240-35050 ($35 + shipping $9)

Heater hose 87245-35680 (didn't replace)

Interestingly, I noticed some wear on the top of the inlet (see picture). No wear on the output side.

Note: I disconnected the rear heater and removed the "T" joints on both heater lines. I then attached hose (87245-35680) directly on to the valve assembly. It sits at a slight angle and this may have caused this wear.

 

[APhelps]

Why wouldn't the inlet side have more wear? Closing the valve is going to let crud accumulate there compared to the outlet.

You can buy these from Oreillys or whatever. They will work fine.

 

[habanero]

For all the ones I've seen that's the side that falls apart, the lip crumbles off or the whole thing breaks off. All of them were as originally attached. I didn't think to note wear as you did [MENTION=85046]nissanh[/MENTION] , will have to do that next time, curiosity being what it is.

I went aftermarket with the first one....won't be doing that again. The price difference doesn't math out in the positive when it fails so quickly.

I used a 4 seasons heater control valve. NOT impressed with its quality. We'll see how long it lasts, there's always a couple of hose couplers in the tool box if trouble shows its ugly face.
The 21 year old Toyota heater control valve is still in decent shape except the lip on the left hose nipple is gone. Missing. No more. The part that's left looks a little crumbly, hopefully the bit that disappeared doesn't become an issue. Explains the minor coolant leak there.
ANSWER: Less than 8 months. Been chasing a small antifreeze leak. It's the 4 Seasons heater control valve, leaking at the screw that holds the actuator to the valve body. Annoying. It wasn't a catastrophic leak, just drip. drip. drip. drip. etc.

 

[nissanh]

Like Habanero said, go with OEM. Do it once and forget it for another 15+ years.

When this valve fails, it will shoot coolant at pressure and probably in less than a minute it can empty the radiator and then $$$ repair + stranded on the road etc.,

The 100 series Landcruisers also have a failing T joint (diverts coolant to rear heater). The first thing LC forum says to their new members is to replace the heater T. Several reported they overheated the engine and had to do HG job just because a broken heater T which is $11 at the dealer!

Never use aftermarket if you plan to keep the truck.

It takes about 2 weeks to receive the package after placing an order at Amayama.

 

[APhelps]

Like Habanero said, go with OEM. Do it once and forget it for another 15+ years.

When this valve fails, it will shoot coolant at pressure and probably in less than a minute it can empty the radiator and then $$$ repair + stranded on the road etc.,

The 100 series Landcruisers also have a failing T joint (diverts coolant to rear heater). The first thing LC forum says to their new members is to replace the heater T. Several reported they overheated the engine and had to do HG job just because a broken heater T which is $11 at the dealer!

Never use aftermarket if you plan to keep the truck.

It takes about 2 weeks to receive the package after placing an order at Amayama.

Mine started leaking after replacing the heater core. I have an aftermarket heater inlet valve that I replaced over a year and half ago, works just like an OEM product. Looked exact like the OEM one. I'm not sure what you guys are doing to aftermarket parts to make them break. I can almost guarantee that Toyota isn't using some sort of special polymer.

I think the coolant shooting everywhere is unlikely. More often than not you'll have a slow leak. I imagine it'll puddle until it completely breaks off.

How do you know you're getting OEM from Amayama? Can you verify their supply chain?

 

[BamaDrewski]

I replaced my heater valve with an aftermarket from FourSeasons several years ago. One thing I recommend: The heater control cable (the one that controls the valve) can get dust and grime in it and bind up. (The wire cable is in a sheath). I took a syringe and "injected" liquid Teflon dry lube down the cable to make sure the cable would not bind. I worked it back and forth to make sure the cable assembly was well lubed. It is smooth as silk now.

I understand this might be OCD but it has really helped. Our rigs are getting older and "a little help helps"

 

[habanero]

...Looked exact like the OEM one. I'm not sure what you guys are doing to aftermarket parts to make them break....

This 'guy' is installing them in a normal and patient manner. Glad to hear you're getting more time than I did on mine. That's awesome. The 4Seasons version definitely was NOT like quality.

Some things I'm fine with aftermarket depending on the company, some things not so much. I'm not okay with things that look and/or feel cheap right out of the box. I'm okay with spending more for something I perceive to be better, whether it be based on past performance or look and feel. For where I go and what I do that perception is very important to me.

And just because I agree with nissanh on this part and I have anecdotal evidence as to why- it doesn't mean anyone else can't put what they want into their truck- or vice versa.


Great mini-write-up and observation nissanh, I don't have rear heater lines on the 96- my husband's 99 does and the rust-prone (earlier 4Runners have them) lines were badly rusted and though they weren't leaking while installed they were falling apart as he pulled them off to replace with a newer junkyard set out of an '02.
Thanks for the heads-up on the 'T'.

EDIT- nice tip BamaDrewski.

 

[nissanh]

The plastic is going to crack and snap, opening about 1/2 inch coolant line to air (100 series landcruiser heater T does the same)