Novashards
Member
So when I was flushing out the cooling system in my 4runner about a month ago I noticed that the outlet pipe on it was crumbling away. With research I found a few threads where others stated theirs was found crumbling away or had crumbled completely and left them stranded. Unfortunately the OEM replacement was over $100 and the aftermarket replacements while reasonably priced have horrible reviews stating they basically all leak right away or within a few months. This did not seem like a good solution and I continued to look into it while praying the outlet pipe did not crumble the rest of the way. Well with a bit a research I looked at one of the aftermarket replacements and pulled up the specs from the manufacturer.
Four Seasons Heater Valve 74650
Key Characteristics;
Description:Cable Operated Non-Bypass Pull to Open Heater Valve
Operation Type: Cable Operated
Style:Non-Bypass
Opening "A" "IN":0.625
Opening "B" "IN":0.625
I decided to look through their catalog and see if I could find a metal replacement valve with the same specifications.
I found two metal valves with the same specs as the plastic one. Both are also available on Amazon.
Four Seasons Heater Valve 74827
Four Seasons Heater Valve 74828
Both of these had the same specs as the plastic replacement. The only difference seemed to be the built in cable clamp and the lack of OEM screw connection points to secured it to the bracket.
After looking at both of these I could not find a difference between the two, maybe someone smarter will see what I missed. I decided to go with the Four Seasons Heater Valve 74827 simply because it had a bit better reviews on Amazon.
Upon receipt of the valve It appears just like the photos. I closed the valve and filled it with water. There was no leakage. The valve has a very smooth easy action. It appears to be well built.
I removed the crumbling plastic valve.
Upon test fitting the metal valve I found that the hoses slid easily (maybe slightly too easily) onto the valve pipes. The OEM hose clamps did not seem to secure the hoses well so I used new clamps. After adjusting the valve all the way off and making sure the climate control was also set all the way off I found that the best position for the valve to have the control cable close the valve completely and secure the cable in place was to have the valve facing downwards. The caused the lever to rub against the original valve's bracket. To prevent any issues I trimmed the bracket figuring if this doesn't work out I can always pick up another one cheap from a junk yard. I then zip tied the valve to the remaining bracket, one on each side of the valve and up through the hole. (Hmm, I forgot to get a final picture). After the valve was secured to the bracket I made sure the cable was in a good position pushing the valve completely shut and then I secured the cable clamp with a 1/4" socket.
Oops, I forgot to get a picture of it zip tied in. I'll try to remember to do that tomorrow.
It all appears to be working well with no leaks. I'll advise further if I have any issues pop up. I am also considering cutting the heater core return line and inserting one of these valve to prevent the passive heat from affecting my cooling. I would connect the return valve to the main valve with a control cable so hopefully both would be controlled by the climate control.
Four Seasons Heater Valve 74650
Key Characteristics;
Description:Cable Operated Non-Bypass Pull to Open Heater Valve
Operation Type: Cable Operated
Style:Non-Bypass
Opening "A" "IN":0.625
Opening "B" "IN":0.625
I decided to look through their catalog and see if I could find a metal replacement valve with the same specifications.
I found two metal valves with the same specs as the plastic one. Both are also available on Amazon.
Four Seasons Heater Valve 74827
Four Seasons Heater Valve 74828
Both of these had the same specs as the plastic replacement. The only difference seemed to be the built in cable clamp and the lack of OEM screw connection points to secured it to the bracket.
After looking at both of these I could not find a difference between the two, maybe someone smarter will see what I missed. I decided to go with the Four Seasons Heater Valve 74827 simply because it had a bit better reviews on Amazon.
Upon receipt of the valve It appears just like the photos. I closed the valve and filled it with water. There was no leakage. The valve has a very smooth easy action. It appears to be well built.
I removed the crumbling plastic valve.
Upon test fitting the metal valve I found that the hoses slid easily (maybe slightly too easily) onto the valve pipes. The OEM hose clamps did not seem to secure the hoses well so I used new clamps. After adjusting the valve all the way off and making sure the climate control was also set all the way off I found that the best position for the valve to have the control cable close the valve completely and secure the cable in place was to have the valve facing downwards. The caused the lever to rub against the original valve's bracket. To prevent any issues I trimmed the bracket figuring if this doesn't work out I can always pick up another one cheap from a junk yard. I then zip tied the valve to the remaining bracket, one on each side of the valve and up through the hole. (Hmm, I forgot to get a final picture). After the valve was secured to the bracket I made sure the cable was in a good position pushing the valve completely shut and then I secured the cable clamp with a 1/4" socket.
Oops, I forgot to get a picture of it zip tied in. I'll try to remember to do that tomorrow.
It all appears to be working well with no leaks. I'll advise further if I have any issues pop up. I am also considering cutting the heater core return line and inserting one of these valve to prevent the passive heat from affecting my cooling. I would connect the return valve to the main valve with a control cable so hopefully both would be controlled by the climate control.
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