Help Adjusting Settled Suspension....

[Soneill]

So my Toytec lift has finally settled and is starting to wear in inside of my front tires. I'm going to get it realigned but wanted to raise the front back up some. When i do that to get the truck level do all 4 wheel wells need to measure the same height all the way around?? Thanks in advance.

 

[TEujunga]

No, the rear wheel well openings are taller than the fronts, so if you make it so that the wheel well measurements are the same all around, you'll have a reverse rake (i.e., the tail will be low).

Generally about 1"-2" more rear wheel well clearance makes for a level stance, but a lot of what defines "level" is in the eye of the beholder.

 

[Soneill]

No, the rear wheel well openings are taller than the fronts, so if you make it so that the wheel well measurements are the same all around, you'll have a reverse rake (i.e., the tail will be low).

Generally about 1"-2" more rear wheel well clearance makes for a level stance, but a lot of what defines "level" is in the eye of the beholder.

This is kinda what I was thinking. Do I even need to raise it up or should i just get it aligned?

 

[TEujunga]

Up to you. There's no one right answer. Just be sure to set the height where you want it first before doing the alignment, of course.

 

[MeefZah]

My BOSS settled like crazy, especially the driver's side. Good luck adjusting that preload, it's a mother ****er to spin the proprietary wrench on the adjustment, even with a breaker bar.

With any sort of lift I always advocate getting a lifetime alignment from Firestone (or whatever shop in your area offers it). In the case of Firestone, go back whenever you want and get it aligned... saves a ton of money in the long run. I believe the up front cost is twice what a 1-time alignment is.

 

[Septimius]

My BOSS settled like crazy, especially the driver's side. Good luck adjusting that preload, it's a mother ****er to spin the proprietary wrench on the adjustment, even with a breaker bar.

With any sort of lift I always advocate getting a lifetime alignment from Firestone (or whatever shop in your area offers it). In the case of Firestone, go back whenever you want and get it aligned... saves a ton of money in the long run. I believe the up front cost is twice what a 1-time alignment is.

are you making sure to take the load off before trying to spin the collar on the coil? if you take the load off the corner, it should be able to spin (albeit difficultly) even by hand

 

[MeefZah]

are you making sure to take the load off before trying to spin the collar on the coil? if you take the load off the corner, it should be able to spin (albeit difficultly) even by hand

Yeah, elevated on jack stands to frame and wIth wheels off.

Dunno.

 

[Soneill]

Up to you. There's no one right answer. Just be sure to set the height where you want it first before doing the alignment, of course.

1st just wanted to say thanks for all the response and sorry for the delay getting back. So I decided to just raise the front a bit. 1inch diffrence rear to front on drivers side and 1.5inch in the passenger side. Took her in to get an alignment and these are my results.
https://flic.kr/p/WZJyWz
2 questions
1. How does the alignment look?
2. Whay is the left front toe still -0.03
In the red.
Thanks again to [MENTION=164114]TEujunga[/MENTION]

 

[TEujunga]

Kind of a sloppy alignment, looks like they just did a "toe and go" without adjusting caster or camber. I'd like to see more consistency between the two sides.

The caster looks OK -- I'm guessing you must have aftermarket UCAs to get numbers like that with a lift? The camber is in spec but it seems like that much negative camber might contribute to your inside tire wear.

The tiny bit of toe-in on one side is no big deal, as the total number is in spec.

Does it drive OK?

 

[Trixx]

My BOSS settled like crazy, especially the driver's side. Good luck adjusting that preload, it's a mother ****er to spin the proprietary wrench on the adjustment, even with a breaker bar.
QUOTE]

On my passenger side with my reservoirs there was no way that wrench was coming on, so I used a long flat head and a rubber mallet. It was slow, but I think it was 1000x easier than using the wrench. If I have to adjust either side again I'll be going that route.

 

[Soneill]

Kind of a sloppy alignment, looks like they just did a "toe and go" without adjusting caster or camber. I'd like to see more consistency between the two sides.

The caster looks OK -- I'm guessing you must have aftermarket UCAs to get numbers like that with a lift? The camber is in spec but it seems like that much negative camber might contribute to your inside tire wear.

The tiny bit of toe-in on one side is no big deal, as the total number is in spec.

Does it drive OK?

Yes I do have UCA's. Do you think that the tires are still going to wear on the inside? I just rotated tires and don't want to prematurely wear the other one's as well. Yes, it drives just fine. Thanks again for getting back.

 

[Soneill]

My BOSS settled like crazy, especially the driver's side. Good luck adjusting that preload, it's a mother ****er to spin the proprietary wrench on the adjustment, even with a breaker bar.

With any sort of lift I always advocate getting a lifetime alignment from Firestone (or whatever shop in your area offers it). In the case of Firestone, go back whenever you want and get it aligned... saves a ton of money in the long run. I believe the up front cost is twice what a 1-time alignment is.

i was able to get in there with the spanner wrench they gave with the kit and a 1/2" ratchet. took about 5 min to get 1 turn but I got it. lol