Help - can figure how to get the strut back in -daystar lift

Fired Up

New member
Help - can't figure how to get the strut back in -daystar lift

I need some help guys - got my strut out and for the life of me can't get it back in - doing the daystar leveling kit. I followed the SP8balls instructions but stumped - that was for a 1" toytech so maybe thats the diff. Do I have to drop the sway bar? it seems that is what is holding me back. I did not disconnect the top a-arm either - maybe that's the problem..any help is appreciated.
 
Last edited:
Register to hide this ad
Disconnect the sway bar, separate the spindle from the lower ball joint, and use a prybar to push down on the LCA; you'll have plenty of room. Make sure to remove the ABS sensor wire before doing any of this.
 
I did disconect the sway and unbolted the LCA from the spindle. The LCA's are super hard to push down even with a long pry bar. I have been watching youtube vids that show guys loosening the LCA bolts and then they just fall down - any advice on this? seems like the easiest way? Seems like there are a couple of diff way to go about this..
 
If the sway bar is disconnected and the spindle, the only force keeping the LCA in position is the rubber bushing, it should not be difficult to push down with a 24"+ pry bar in one of the holes on top of the LCA. Loosening the LCA bolts shouldn't be needed, and will mess up your alignment a lot.
 
I hear you - I dont fet it either - my buddy have to put some serious strain in the LCA's and the barely move. The truck only has 17K miles maybe thats why not sure? question -if i have to get it aligned anyway why not just loosen the bottom LCA bolts?
 
I hear you - I dont fet it either - my buddy have to put some serious strain in the LCA's and the barely move. The truck only has 17K miles maybe thats why not sure? question -if i have to get it aligned anyway why not just loosen the bottom LCA bolts?
90% of alignment techs have no idea what they are doing, all they can do is set toe. You can also have a dangerously handling vehicle, depending on where the LCA adjusters wind up.

I have removed my coilovers at least a half dozen times, and my go to method is to disconnect the LBJ, 24" pry bar in the LCA with my knee on it, and fairly easily remove/install the coilover.
 
Do you bing the whole unit up between the lca and sway bar? Th sway bar seems to be my biggest barrier. Can I just drop the whole bar?
 
Loosen the lca bolts that go to the frame
They are really tight. When u are don't tighten back up the alignment can will not move so don't worry about it
 
Do you bing the whole unit up between the lca and sway bar? Th sway bar seems to be my biggest barrier. Can I just drop the whole bar?
I have KDSS, so my sway bar is lower, but I always disconnect it from the suspension. I also disconnect the tie rod ends or remove the UCAs to make room for maneuvering the coilover.
 
Loosen the lca bolts that go to the frame
They are really tight. When u are don't tighten back up the alignment can will not move so don't worry about it

Sorry dude..you lost me. There are two sep bolts down there I think? Sorry for all newbie questions..
 
The lower control arm bolts, once this is done they lower control arm will move easier for you, once u are done tighten it back up
 
Do you bing the whole unit up between the lca and sway bar? Th sway bar seems to be my biggest barrier. Can I just drop the whole bar?

I would. Think your issue is once the spacer is installed, the shock is 2 1/2" longer and does not have enough clearance to slide back in because the end of the sway bar is in the way.

My experience when installing kit in my driveway (non KDSS, with stock UCA's) was........remove retaining bolts for the ABS harness (Spindle, UCA, and top of frame by brake line, did not remove sensor). Disconnected sway bar end links, then unbolted sway bar mounts from frame. Removed upper and lower shock mounting bolts and nuts. Separated Upper ball joint from spindle with floor jack under lower control arm to prevent the assembly from dropping. Slowly lowered jack enough to gain clearance to remove shock all while making sure ABS harness is free and not pulling on sensor (there is plenty of slack). Installed stud extenders using Loctite, added spacer to top of shock, then reassembled.

Good luck.
 

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
278,317
Messages
3,554,129
Members
248,016
Latest member
Advally Service

Trending content

Back
Top