Help Diagnosing

WEAK_E90

New member
103k miles
icon lift (done at approx 60k)
bigger tires
spc upc - replaced ball joints at 90k
Last alignment - 8k miles ago

Brake life - getting down there - tech said I am in the last yellow before red (on my list to do in next weeks)

Background/finding: on my way to work i take back roads (55mph) 2 round abouts. Sometimes upon exiting a round about i get a "pulse" or a small steering wheel shake (feels like its passenger side more) but if I let go of the steering wheel it has the oscillation of left to right and continues from exiting round about to desired speed of 60mph. Sometimes I can get it to reduce or go away but either 1) braking moderately 2) touch left to right lines quickly

Issue:
When the vibration/oscillation occurs it is obviously amplified when hitting brakes - as you push down more the shake gets more aggressive (makes me think warped rotor) BUT its not every time I hit the brakes... Its starts as im going up to speed usually after a turn.

Example i can slam on the brakes and get no pulse or pull much of the time...

The vehicle tends to "float" or drift. I find myself touching lines left and right or not tracking very straight - last alignment was 8,000 miles ago and was perfect.


Time to start replacing things...
- Lower control arm bushings?
- tie rod bushings/ends?

wondering what people would suggest.
 
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103k miles
icon lift (done at approx 60k)
bigger tires
spc upc - replaced ball joints at 90k
Last alignment - 8k miles ago

Brake life - getting down there - tech said I am in the last yellow before red (on my list to do in next weeks)

Background/finding: on my way to work i take back roads (55mph) 2 round abouts. Sometimes upon exiting a round about i get a "pulse" or a small steering wheel shake (feels like its passenger side more) but if I let go of the steering wheel it has the oscillation of left to right and continues from exiting round about to desired speed of 60mph. Sometimes I can get it to reduce or go away but either 1) braking moderately 2) touch left to right lines quickly

Issue:
When the vibration/oscillation occurs it is obviously amplified when hitting brakes - as you push down more the shake gets more aggressive (makes me think warped rotor) BUT its not every time I hit the brakes... Its starts as im going up to speed usually after a turn.

Example i can slam on the brakes and get no pulse or pull much of the time...

The vehicle tends to "float" or drift. I find myself touching lines left and right or not tracking very straight - last alignment was 8,000 miles ago and was perfect.


Time to start replacing things...
- Lower control arm bushings?
- tie rod bushings/ends?

wondering what people would suggest.

Brake life makes sense. bigger (heavier) tires, aftermarket stuff adding weight to the 4runner. will wear out faster. changed mine all around at 80 ish thousand, and there was little pad left.

The wandering sounds like an alignment issue. It could be related to the tie rod ends; they are easy to replace and relatively cheap. However, before you go throwing good money after bad; go get an alignment and specify that you want at least 3.5 to 4.0 degrees of caster. they can use the adjustable SPC uppers to dial this in.
NOTE: not every alignment shop knows how to use the SPC alignment shim that is built in to the UPC's!! go to SPC's website and download the instructions for them, and take it to your preferred shop.
Also give them the torque specs on the 4runner LCA's. It is much higher than most people think it is...like 175 ft lbs...if my memory serves.

Lastly, the lower control arm bushings are a colossal PITA to change. you are better to just buy a set of LCA's and replace them that way. you can find inexpensive arms on ROCK AUTO.

If you REALLY WANT a set of LCA's that do not use cheap squishy rubber or squeaky polyurethane bushings; Dirt King makes a set of LCA's that uses DELRIN as the bushing. BUT, that set will set you back 1800+ for the set of two. I am currently saving my pennies for a set...
Good luck with it!
AMLOR
 
Brake life makes sense. bigger (heavier) tires, aftermarket stuff adding weight to the 4runner. will wear out faster. changed mine all around at 80 ish thousand, and there was little pad left.

The wandering sounds like an alignment issue. It could be related to the tie rod ends; they are easy to replace and relatively cheap. However, before you go throwing good money after bad; go get an alignment and specify that you want at least 3.5 to 4.0 degrees of caster. they can use the adjustable SPC uppers to dial this in.
NOTE: not every alignment shop knows how to use the SPC alignment shim that is built in to the UPC's!! go to SPC's website and download the instructions for them, and take it to your preferred shop.
Also give them the torque specs on the 4runner LCA's. It is much higher than most people think it is...like 175 ft lbs...if my memory serves.

Lastly, the lower control arm bushings are a colossal PITA to change. you are better to just buy a set of LCA's and replace them that way. you can find inexpensive arms on ROCK AUTO.

If you REALLY WANT a set of LCA's that do not use cheap squishy rubber or squeaky polyurethane bushings; Dirt King makes a set of LCA's that uses DELRIN as the bushing. BUT, that set will set you back 1800+ for the set of two. I am currently saving my pennies for a set...
Good luck with it!
AMLOR

Thanks for the feedback. I am ready to start throwing money at it...
Alignment: the mechanic is a friend of mine and familiar with the SPC's and setting them

Brakes I know need to be done but dont feel its that as its not every time i hit the brakes and it also does the "shimmy" when driving and no brakes AND NOT ALL THE TIME (which would be a sign of warped rotor).

Think its either the tie rod ends or LCA bushings (which yes, i have already eyed dirt kings).

Throw the sink at it and do brakes, LCAs, and tie rod ends - BUT now im also contemplating long travel up front... Well see what my bonus is this year :rofl:
 
like wheel bearings?

Yes


Put the front end in the air, spin then shake the wheels, have someone turn the wheels all the way back and forth while you listen for any grinding, clicking, popping, or other noises that seem out of place. If something is off you hopefully you can trace it back to the source.
 
another curve ball...

steering wheel shakes when applying brakes in 2wd but when in 4wd steering wheel does not when applying brakes...

:smashputer:
 

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