HELP! I cant get this Steering Joint off for my LIFE.. been a week down and counting.

[TheFriZ]

Need some urgent help.... I've been working on this stupid steering rack for a week now....

I finally succumbed to the fact that I wasn't going to get the power steering lines loose... so I had to order new lines... My 4runner has been down for a week+

I finally received my lines yesterday... and now I can't get the steering coupling loose....

I can get it to drop off of the splined shaft, at the very top by loosening the set screw, but once I have the rack on the ground, I cant get the whole assembly off of the old rack to put it on the new rack... I tried reattaching the whole thing, and tightening the top set screw, in hopes that I could get it to pull off of the splines at the bottom set screw... still no luck...

The two 12mm bolts that bolt the bottom half to the top half, with the rubber bushing in between... those will not BUDGE.

I REALLY need to get this done.... I can't explain how much I need to be done with this...

 

[slowpoke99]

Mine gave me a hard time too so what I did was removed the bolt and stuck a prybar in the slot to try and free up the splines then tapped it off a punch and hammer. Looks like rust could be the the problem with yours. It looks pretty dry. Did you soak it in penetrating oil?
Have you considered just putting a new rag joint on that shiny new steering rack?

 

[TheFriZ]

It had been hit with penetrating oil a week ago.... still wouldn't budge.. I am about at the point where I would like to do a new rag joint... but oh the cost.... and more importantly, the time.... ive been running my 69 firebird to death without this thing drivable...

 

[shootmymime]

It had been hit with penetrating oil a week ago.... still wouldn't budge.. I am about at the point where I would like to do a new rag joint... but oh the cost.... and more importantly, the time.... ive been running my 69 firebird to death without this thing drivable...

wedge a wrench in there. then turn the steering wheel and it should break those 2 vertical rubber nuts loose. rest the wrench against the frame.
take it off witht he rack.

there are 4 bolts and 3 ways to take it off.
1. bolt on the slip yoke on the bottom that you have already taken off. (this is not working so move one)
2. 2 bolts that are vertical, remove those and the rubber bushing should seporate there.
3. just like the 1st step. but its the bolt on the top. for the slip yoke.

if you can remove it one of these three ways, pull it off with the rack then get it on the ground and work on it harder. it will come off. you can do it!

 

[TheFriZ]

im trying to find part numbers, but Camelback isn't really clear on what pieces come with what.. If I went through the trouble, I would want the rubber piece as well, it is cracked and worn on mine... I only need the bottom half, the top half I can get separated once the rack is off of the truck (already did it once)... I may just take the rack off and run it up to my friends shop and see if they can get it to pull off

 

[TheFriZ]

AlSO IMPORTANT:

I have my steering wheel locked, dead center with some straps, but now, as much as im having to mess with things, im getting worried about making sure it is lined up on the correct splines...

1. Should i try and center my new rack, and put it on with my steering wheel locked center?

OR

2. Should I try and lock the steering wheel left or right, and lock the new steering rack to the same side, and then slide it up on the splined shaft?

 

[shootmymime]

im trying to find part numbers, but Camelback isn't really clear on what pieces come with what.. If I went through the trouble, I would want the rubber piece as well, it is cracked and worn on mine... I only need the bottom half, the top half I can get separated once the rack is off of the truck (already did it once)... I may just take the rack off and run it up to my friends shop and see if they can get it to pull off

spin the wheel around a bit. on the slip yoke on the bottom where you have that bolt pulled, stick a wedge or screw driver in the slot and smack it with a hammer. open that death grip on the steering shaft. ive done that before.

 

[TheFriZ]

wedge a wrench in there. then turn the steering wheel and it should break those 2 vertical rubber nuts loose. rest the wrench against the frame.
take it off witht he rack.

there are 4 bolts and 3 ways to take it off.
1. bolt on the slip yoke on the bottom that you have already taken off. (this is not working so move one)
2. 2 bolts that are vertical, remove those and the rubber bushing should seporate there.
3. just like the 1st step. but its the bolt on the top. for the slip yoke.

if you can remove it one of these three ways, pull it off with the rack then get it on the ground and work on it harder. it will come off. you can do it!

Option 3 works, i can get it on the ground, I actually took this picture after i put it BACK up there and tried to do option two (without the steering wheel part) I just feel like im going to round off the nuts, or tear the rubber bushing one if i try that... I may try it.. or i may try and fight it all off with the rack on the ground...

If i do fight it off with the rack on the ground, my only worry is making sure everything is lined up again.....

 

[shootmymime]

AlSO IMPORTANT:

I have my steering wheel locked, dead center with some straps, but now, as much as im having to mess with things, im getting worried about making sure it is lined up on the correct splines...

1. Should i try and center my new rack, and put it on with my steering wheel locked center?

OR

2. Should I try and lock the steering wheel left or right, and lock the new steering rack to the same side, and then slide it up on the splined shaft?

centered, you will mostlikely be off a tooth. i am on mine and gave up on trying to get it 100% perfect.

do fix it i am ( did) remove the slip yoke on the top, slid the yoke off the shaft and rotated it 1 tooth to get it back on. its pretty simple but hard work.

 

[TheFriZ]

well, i got the rag joint off, finally.... It took an air chisel to finally beat it off.....

Now, on to lining up the steering rack... there has to be a more definite way to ensure it's straight....

Has anyone ever tried putting the wheel and the rack both at full lock? why wont that work?

 

[nevada]

well, i got the rag joint off, finally.... It took an air chisel to finally beat it off.....

Now, on to lining up the steering rack... there has to be a more definite way to ensure it's straight....

Has anyone ever tried putting the wheel and the rack both at full lock? why wont that work?

turn the rack both directions until it stops, count the turns so you can find center.

then center the wheel and line it up. it likely wont be exact, and WILL need to be corrected with an alignment.


edit: the wheel has no full lock once disconnected from the rack. it will spin freely forever.

 

[BlazeRunner]

Be careful spinning the steering wheel while everything is loose, I personally wouldn't. There's a wound spring inside the wheel and you could damage it. Just make sure the wheel is centered from when you removed the rack, it helps to have everything centered when you pull the car into your work spot. I use large zip ties to hold the wheel. As far as the rack, just get the tie rods even on each side when you install it and when you do your alignment should center the wheel. Doesn't have to be perfect down to the exact spline.

 

[TheFriZ]

Be careful spinning the steering wheel while everything is loose, I personally wouldn't. There's a wound spring inside the wheel and you could damage it. Just make sure the wheel is centered from when you removed the rack, it helps to have everything centered when you pull the car into your work spot. I use large zip ties to hold the wheel. As far as the rack, just get the tie rods even on each side when you install it and when you do your alignment should center the wheel. Doesn't have to be perfect down to the exact spline.

This makes me feel better! Thanks man!

 

[BlazeRunner]

This makes me feel better! Thanks man!

Glad I could help, good luck!

 

[nissanh]

Remove the driver side steering rack to frame blot and lower the rack a bit to pull the spline out.

 

[sterbenlicht]

If you still have the old rack, and the wheel is currently held in place where it was when you took the old rack out, place the new rack on the ground beside the old rack parallel to it. Then gently turn the shaft in the new rack with some pliers until the inner tie rod matches the inner tie rod of the old rack. It helps to do it with a line on the floor or something.

Don't turn the wheel around without it connected to the rack. The rack is what keeps it from spinning freely and it'll just spin around and snap your clock spring (spiral cable) and your airbag light will be on. You may have to wiggle the upper steering shaft when putting it on the new rack once it's in the truck, and possibly wiggle the steering wheel inside when slipping it on. Try cleaning as much of the rust out of that thing as possible and soaking it with some penetrating oil of some kind to get it on.

As far as getting the old one off, I start by soaking it down and position the tip of a pry bar against the very end of the shaft right where it slides on the rack. Enough banging and it'll start to slide up little by little. It helps to have it on a lift to get a good swing.

 

[TheFriZ]

I actually just noticed that the new OEM Toyota rack came marked at dead center, and I have measured to make sure... Now the only problem is getting the bottom half of the rag joint aligned to make it slide up on it... The bottom half of the rag joint doesn't have a specific orientation, as where the top half has to be on a certain way... im going to lift it up, make the top half, and mark the bottom half.. and then separate it, beat the bottom half onto the new rack, and put the top half on the splined shaft in the truck, and bolt it together All will be good

Ill be so glad to have this finished, I couldn't work on it today because I had to go to Greensboro and finish my move back to Virginia... but tomorrow morning I will finish it up!!!

On a side note, I ordered brand new Gates Pressure and Return lines for the Power steering, and they are SPOT ON. Nice lines, steel, not aluminum like most aftermarket, all the correct bends, etc... And I found a new return line tube, OEM Toyota piece on Ebay for $16 new... Toyota wanted something like $60 bucks for it... The gates power steering lines were $200 for both, so I have about $216 bucks on new power steering lines.... Toyota wanted $402(and that was from Camelback) just for the Pressure line!!!!

Im going to start a build thread tomorrow and I'll list everything I've gotten with part numbers and some pics... All in all, ive made out well getting good quality aftermarket (Gates, KYB, etc..) and OEM Toyota Parts for good prices. Im pretty STOKED to get this done and aligned.

All said and done:
NEW OEM Toyota Lower Ball Joints
New OEM Toyota Outer Tie Rod Ends
New OEM Toyota Rack and Pinion
New OEM Toyota Inner Tie Rod Ends (came with Rack)
New OEM Toyota Power Steering Return Tube
New Gates Power Steering Pressure Line
New Gates Power Steering Return Line
Energy Suspension Poly Rack and Pinion Mounts (I do believe I'm only going to use the big bushing for now, the one on the passenger side)
KYB Monomax Heavy Duty Shocks for the Front And Rear
Daystar 1" Front Spacers
Daystar 1.5" Rear Spacers

Next will be:
Weathertech Liners for the whole rig
Some stereo bits
Transmission Cooler
and a visit to Ding King.... (rescued a friend from a jail visit and his DRUNK girlfriend punched a dent in my truck thankfully, sober, she realized it and is paying)

Im ready for this thing to be drivable... although I do love having an excuse to drive this around....


Thanks for all the help guys!!!

P.s. I made a thread for this, but no one has replied... I want to make sure I have the right springs on the right side...
Obviously the back are both Yellow/Red markings, and they are not side specific,

THE FRONT however are Blue/Red and Blue/Blue... I didn't pay attention when I took them off... (I wasn't aware they were side specific until afterwards..) anyway, which side is which... is the Blue/Red the driver and the Blue/Blue the passenger, or vice-versa?

Thanks again!!!

 

[sterbenlicht]

Well I don't know about the springs, but dammit sir that is one gorgeous firebird. I just sold my 99 Trans Am about a month ago and there have been a couple of days lately when I've missed it. Anyway, awesome car and I hope you get the 4runner up and going asap.

 

[TheFriZ]

Well I don't know about the springs, but dammit sir that is one gorgeous firebird. I just sold my 99 Trans Am about a month ago and there have been a couple of days lately when I've missed it. Anyway, awesome car and I hope you get the 4runner up and going asap.

Thank You!!! the firebird is something new for me, I recently sold my 2004 STi and got the firebird... WAAYYY different.. LOL

Good news is the 4Runner is DONE!!!
thanks a bunch for everyone's help!!

Here's the old gal, for viewing pleasure... LOL On Virginia International Raceway handing an M3 it's ass

 

[O2RunnerSR5]

wedge a wrench in there. then turn the steering wheel and it should break those 2 vertical rubber nuts loose. rest the wrench against the frame.
take it off witht he rack.

there are 4 bolts and 3 ways to take it off.
1. bolt on the slip yoke on the bottom that you have already taken off. (this is not working so move one)
2. 2 bolts that are vertical, remove those and the rubber bushing should seporate there.
3. just like the 1st step. but its the bolt on the top. for the slip yoke.

if you can remove it one of these three ways, pull it off with the rack then get it on the ground and work on it harder. it will come off. you can do it!

First thank you, your advice worked well.
Second, I bought a new hp power steering line and wondering where the oring that came with it goes? On the line to the rack? Or on the pressure sensor at the pump