Help me w/ aftermarket stereo setup

[McGruder]

I have the standard, entry level stereo system in my 2010 4R. I'm not very familiar with the product lines with mobile audio and could really use some good advice. I already have a Pioneer AVIC-Z120BT double-DIN nav head unit (not installed yet) thanks to the "aftermarket stereo" thread.

The Pioneer has 6 preamp outs, and 14W rms / 50W peak output. I already have the new dash panel for installation.

I plan to have the system professionally installed. I'd like to be all set up and on the road for about $1500-$1700 beyond my head unit investment.

I'm not sure if I should plan for 6 speakers or just 4. My priority is sound quality and ability to play fairly loud but with controlled, clean sound. I'd like approach a neutral sound characteristic, and to not be concerned about the system sounding rolled off and dull or overly bright.

I really don't know much about these products. Here is what I was thinking of so far. I was surprised at how low prices are at Onlinecarstereo.com (this totals to about $1140). I haven't factored in harnesses, wires, and installation costs yet. Any opinions on brands, models or configurations is very welcome.

Alpine PDX-4.150
4-channel 150W x 4 Car Amplifier
$399.00

Alpine SPS-600 Alpine SPS-600
6-1/2" 2-way 240W Car Speakers
$59.00

Alpine SPS-609 Alpine SPS-609
6"x9" 3-way 260W Car Speakers
$74.00

Alpine PDX-1.600
Mono Power Density Digital Amplifier
$319.00

JL Audio CS112RG-W3v3
12" 600W 4-ohm Subwoofer Enclosure
$279.00

 

[subst4nce]

You should be very happy with this setup, I'm a big fan of alpine.

May I ask why you chose the PDX amps? are you trying to save space? If not, then I would look into getting different amps, you can save a decent amount of money with normal sized amps.

 

[BFLAN]

I think you will be happy with this setup, however I would seriously consider installing separates in the front. Separates have a separate tweeter that you would install in your dash or A pillar, a midrange speaker that would go in the door and a crossover unit that filters out the highs and lows to the two separate speakers. This setup usually gives you much better sound quality, as well as better imaging. There are many good brands of speakers that make this type of speaker setup. I have found in my experience that they sound much, much better than coaxials.

I would not worry about separates in the rear, since you are probably only looking for rear fill anyway.

I have an Alpine PDX5 running my whole system and have been very happy with it. They are small, and pack a good punch. Another bonus with these amps is that they are digital and do not get real hot. That is a big bonus when installing because you can mount them just about anywhere and not have to worry as much about airflow, etc and the amp getting too hot and shutting down.

JL Audio makes wonderful subs and you will not be disappointed. However the most important part of any subwoofer is the enclosure. I would be sure that the installer building the box knows what they are doing and follows the manufactures specs so you ensure you will have a good sounding sub in the end.

Hope this helps, and good luck. Whatever you do, it will sound so much better than stock. The stock setup is pretty bad, so anything will be a huge upgrade!

 

[McGruder]

You should be very happy with this setup, I'm a big fan of alpine.

May I ask why you chose the PDX amps? are you trying to save space? If not, then I would look into getting different amps, you can save a decent amount of money with normal sized amps.

I was leaning to the digital amp because of the efficiency, lack of heat issues, space savings, and bass control that class D is renowned for. I know class D isn't perfect either, but it appears as though the technology has matured in mobile audio.

 

[McGruder]

I think you will be happy with this setup, however I would seriously consider installing separates in the front. Separates have a separate tweeter that you would install in your dash or A pillar, a midrange speaker that would go in the door and a crossover unit that filters out the highs and lows to the two separate speakers. This setup usually gives you much better sound quality, as well as better imaging. There are many good brands of speakers that make this type of speaker setup. I have found in my experience that they sound much, much better than coaxials.

I would not worry about separates in the rear, since you are probably only looking for rear fill anyway.

I have an Alpine PDX5 running my whole system and have been very happy with it. They are small, and pack a good punch. Another bonus with these amps is that they are digital and do not get real hot. That is a big bonus when installing because you can mount them just about anywhere and not have to worry as much about airflow, etc and the amp getting too hot and shutting down.

JL Audio makes wonderful subs and you will not be disappointed. However the most important part of any subwoofer is the enclosure. I would be sure that the installer building the box knows what they are doing and follows the manufactures specs so you ensure you will have a good sounding sub in the end.

Hope this helps, and good luck. Whatever you do, it will sound so much better than stock. The stock setup is pretty bad, so anything will be a huge upgrade!

Thanks, maybe I should consider the same amp you have. Where did you mount your component tweeters? Do you have pics? I thought I'd mount the amp on the back of a passenger seat. Where did you mount yours?

Also, did you use all of the speaker locations, including passenger doors and rear lift gate? How is your power distributed? I thought I could use the amp in the head unit to power the rear liftgate if I went with 6 speakers.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm inexperienced with car audio, but love great sound.

 

[Hawkdog21]

I am in the process of doing my entire vehicle as well audio wise so I will chime in. You definitely want to put components in the front. The tweeter will do in the factory location in the dash (in the corners near the windshield). This is where the majority of your highs and mids are coming from as the driver, and were you should spend a little more money. Rear doors are not as important but do help with staging and fill.

Drop the two AMP idea you have and look into the PDX-5, it is a great amp for the money and fits perfectly in your budget. You can pick one of those up for around 400 I believe. It will run your whole system and push that w3 well. They were only recently dethroned as the all around best digi amp so you should be able to pick them up for pretty cheap now (GET IT FROM AN AUTHORIZED DEALER, don't buy an amp to run your whole system that doesn't have a warranty, because on the off chance you got a bad one, you would be up poo creak without a paddle).
EDIT: Mount your amp under the passenger seat, it is stealth and will not get in the way. On my first 4runner I mounted a giant amp on the back of the rear seats and this proved to be a mistake for many reasons (live and learn.)

I would also drop the speakers you have listed, they are fairly wimpy and will not really do the PDX justice. With the PDX-5 and the sub enclosure you have listed (the w3 is a good entry level sub from JL, you will be happy and will never have problems with it so that sounds good to me) you have about 400 you can spend on speakers. An easy solution would be to just bump up to the Alpine type Rs instead of the Ss you have listed. Alpine Type R Components You could get two set of these for the front and rear doors and be very happy.

Amp (PDX-5) - ~400
Sub w/ Enclosure (JL w3)- ~280
Speakers (Alpine type R components)- ~400
Amp Kit- ~85
12ft of good wire- ~40
Labor- ~300-400

Total- ~1505-1605

Those are all ball park estimates of the complete out the door cost. It falls right in line with your budget. (Which I have to say was a very realistic and mature budget for what you wanted)


I will posting my build stuff soon if you want to know specifically what products I am putting in my truck (don't want to hijack your thread).

 

[shishibo]

good ideas, people... any chance of installing a 3 way focal sep up front with a non jbl system? (pulled my system out before i traded in for the sr5) also, any ideas stealth sub box or can you convert the factory jbl sub box? thx.

 

[Hawkdog21]

You can def do a focal 3 way, but you will need something to power them, so as long as you already have/going to get an amp you will be fine. The 3-way would be the way to go if you want the best.

There is no stealth box for our generations as of yet. I am doing a full fiberglass enclosure in mine that will pretty much replace the majority of one of the side panels.

 

[shishibo]

cool, would love to see photos, need ideas. thanks hawkdog.

 

[adio3x]

If you don't care about losing a little space in the trunk, Id recommend going with a JL w7. I'm running the avic z120bt, JL 10w7 prowedge, and JL 500/1 v2. Paid just under 1 grand for the sub/enclosure and amp. Its super clear sounding and bumps like no other. I have it with stock speakers, it sounds great.

 

[Hawkdog21]

If you don't care about losing a little space in the trunk, Id recommend going with a JL w7. I'm running the avic z120bt, JL 10w7 prowedge, and JL 500/1 v2. Paid just under 1 grand for the sub/enclosure and amp. Its super clear sounding and bumps like no other. I have it with stock speakers, it sounds great.

Thats what I am rolling with, I just received my 8w7 in the mail along with my new JL HD 900/5 amp to power everything, needless to say I cannot wait to hear the w7 comboed with the JL HD amp... JL makes a killer product, and the new anniversary edition w7s look killer as well

 

[McGruder]

Thats what I am rolling with, I just received my 8w7 in the mail along with my new JL HD 900/5 amp to power everything, needless to say I cannot wait to hear the w7 comboed with the JL HD amp... JL makes a killer product, and the new anniversary edition w7s look killer as well

I was also looking at JL HD amps, having encountered the raves out on the net - but they're quite expensive. I'll probably just go with the Alpine.

So Hawk, you are essentially just adding the 4 amp channels to the stock speakers and moving up the JL sub line? Are you using the head unit's amp to power anything? Do you think that well of the stock speakers, or is it a transitional approach to getting better speakers later?

 

[Hawkdog21]

I was also looking at JL HD amps, having encountered the raves out on the net - but they're quite expensive. I'll probably just go with the Alpine.

So Hawk, you are essentially just adding the 4 amp channels to the stock speakers and moving up the JL sub line? Are you using the head unit's amp to power anything? Do you think that well of the stock speakers, or is it a transitional approach to getting better speakers later?

I am replacing the front door/dash and rear door speakers with new components, and then just running the amp as you normally would, front rear and sub.

For your budget the PDX5 cant be beat. They produce more power than they advertise. Every sheet I have seen puts the power for the mono around 400 (Never seen one lower than 390). I went with the 900/5 for a few reasons. A. I need the power for the speakers and really for the w7, because it needs a lot of power to get the woofer moving. B. At this level of power and woofer, for good SQ, its just as important to move the sub as it is to slow it down/stop it. The JL HD has much better dampening. You get a much cleaner/tighter bass with more dampening.

 

[McGruder]

I am replacing the front door/dash and rear door speakers with new components, and then just running the amp as you normally would, front rear and sub.

For your budget the PDX5 cant be beat. They produce more power than they advertise. Every sheet I have seen puts the power for the mono around 400 (Never seen one lower than 390). I went with the 900/5 for a few reasons. A. I need the power for the speakers and really for the w7, because it needs a lot of power to get the woofer moving. B. At this level of power and woofer, for good SQ, its just as important to move the sub as it is to slow it down/stop it. The JL HD has much better dampening. You get a much cleaner/tighter bass with more dampening.

Thanks for all your input on this thread. I've decided to get the PDX5, Type R components (6.5" should be fine, right?) for the front doors and dash, and Type R coaxials for the rear doors. I'll just stick w/ the same sub I was planning to get. I'll let the installer hit me up on the wires, harnesses, an XM tuner, and the install so he can make some money.

Keep us posted on your system, it sounds like it's going to be awesome!

One last question - should the installer be able to preserve the Bluetooth functionality of the stock steering wheel controls and stock microphone in conjunction w/ the Pioneer Z120BT? Do I have to buy something extra?

 

[Hawkdog21]

Thanks for all your input on this thread. I've decided to get the PDX5, Type R components (6.5" should be fine, right?) for the front doors and dash, and Type R coaxials for the rear doors. I'll just stick w/ the same sub I was planning to get. I'll let the installer hit me up on the wires, harnesses, an XM tuner, and the install so he can make some money.

Keep us posted on your system, it sounds like it's going to be awesome!

One last question - should the installer be able to preserve the Bluetooth functionality of the stock steering wheel controls and stock microphone in conjunction w/ the Pioneer Z120BT? Do I have to buy something extra?

Boom, perfect. I think you will be very happy with what you got. You will be happy with the w3 as well, all JL products are great.

As far as the steering wheel controls, honestly I am not sure. I know there are a few threads with people putting in new Nav so you might want to give those a read to see if it is mentioned there. I am keeping the factory nav so the whole project remains stealthy (and I can justify having to spend 3 grand on it from toyota, ha)

Post back when you get it all in and let us know how you like everything. Spoiler alert, your gonna dig it.

 

[BFLAN]

Thanks, maybe I should consider the same amp you have. Where did you mount your component tweeters? Do you have pics? I thought I'd mount the amp on the back of a passenger seat. Where did you mount yours?

Also, did you use all of the speaker locations, including passenger doors and rear lift gate? How is your power distributed? I thought I could use the amp in the head unit to power the rear liftgate if I went with 6 speakers.

Sorry for all the questions, but I'm inexperienced with car audio, but love great sound.

No worries on the questions, that is what the Forum is all about!

I put my tweeters in the dash, factory location. I mounted my amp under the passenger seat and my audiocontrol under the drivers seat.

I put Focal separates in the front and Focal coax in the rear doors. I disconnected the speakers in the tailgate. Channels 1-4 on the PDX5 are powering the Focals. Channel 5 is powering a Fosgate 12" sub.

The sub is alright, I got a great deal on it but I am going to replace with a W3 or W6. I have always run JL subs and love them. This Fosgate kinda sucks.

 

[BFLAN]

Here is a link to my post on my setup...

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/68592-new-stereo.html

 

[McGruder]

Everything is installed, with just one problem...

I had everything professionally installed and I'm generally pleased with the fit and finish, and it sounds great. The power is everything I'll ever need, and the tone is pretty natural sounding (for a car stereo) when set to flat frequency response.

I ended up getting 2 sets of coaxials - 1 set for the rear passenger doors and the other set for the liftgate. The Pioneer head unit powers the passenger door speakers, and the Alpine amp powers the front components and the rear liftgate. I also had Dynamat installed in the doors and rear liftgate, since the labor costs to install separately would have been much higher. The difference in sound when I knock on the body panels is pretty impressive - a tight "thunk" sound instead of a resonant hollow rattle sound.

The only problem with the install is that my backup sensors no longer project those beeps that tell you how close you're getting to an object. I happen to use the hell out of that feature for parking and would love to get it back.

Does the factory stereo play any kind of role in that reverse sensor? Any idea exactly what the installer failed to do to cause it to stop working? I'd like to know before taking it back to him.

Thanks for any help.