Ah, you're correct. I didn't see that he had tried 2wd too. I clicked on the thread, and I think inadvertently tabbed down to the bottom of the page, and replied to that post.
Sorry OP, I was hoping for a cheap fix for you.
HELP...my Runner is dead
- Thread starter Bfaulken
- Start date
Ah, you're correct. I didn't see that he had tried 2wd too. I clicked on the thread, and I think inadvertently tabbed down to the bottom of the page, and replied to that post.
Sorry OP, I was hoping for a cheap fix for you.
I'd have to agree, sounds like tranny/transfer case even in nutral he had the tires on the ground and the transfer case in 4wd, so towing it is still turning the driveshaft and everything in transfercase, take driveshaft off put transfer case in N and tranny in N and push it ..no noise your issue is transmission/transfer
Bfaulken
New member
too many people to quote in a reply, but:
Yes, the center diff was locked.
The guy said they pulled the plugs and what they saw in the diffs was not good, so they're going by sight, not just by a guess or feel. They even said they were all shocked that both went at once. And I specifically asked if the transfer case was good, and he said there's nothing wrong with it. SO, I'm gonna call the shop tomorrow and ask a few more questions to see if they're BS-ing me, and I'm gonna talk to my friend's dad, a mechanic, to see what he thinks.
I found a guy on CL selling his 4.10 front diff and rear gears for $350 total, so I called him up and found that he's still got em. If the shop's diagnosis checks out, then I think this may be the cheapest route by far, which right now is what I need to do, and it should be the same as it was before. But does anyone know how much it may cost to get the rear gears installed/set up? I know that takes some expertise that I don't have.
Yes, the center diff was locked.
The guy said they pulled the plugs and what they saw in the diffs was not good, so they're going by sight, not just by a guess or feel. They even said they were all shocked that both went at once. And I specifically asked if the transfer case was good, and he said there's nothing wrong with it. SO, I'm gonna call the shop tomorrow and ask a few more questions to see if they're BS-ing me, and I'm gonna talk to my friend's dad, a mechanic, to see what he thinks.
I found a guy on CL selling his 4.10 front diff and rear gears for $350 total, so I called him up and found that he's still got em. If the shop's diagnosis checks out, then I think this may be the cheapest route by far, which right now is what I need to do, and it should be the same as it was before. But does anyone know how much it may cost to get the rear gears installed/set up? I know that takes some expertise that I don't have.
gannonrt
New member
Front and rear sounds pretty unbelievable but if it's the case then sorry to hear that. Zuk from Toyota Gear Installs quoted me a price of $250 to install a set up a set of 4.30 gears in my diff for me. I had to send him the diff and gears. IIWU - I'd buy that stuff from the guy on Craigslist for $350 and try to get a set of 4.10 gears from someone here ($50-$100 shipped) and then pay Zuk $250 for setup and figure $70 to ship to and from for Zuk. Total would be about 2 weeks without vehicle, $770 total cost and a weekend worth of work once you get everything back if you've never done any work like this.
crashman
New member
I'm still thinking you should go with aussie lockers man I am just jelous they don't have them for my front just rear
they are $270 and $290 for front and rear here are the links
Lockers - Aussie Lockers - Welcome to Torq Masters Home of the Aussie Locker
Lockers - Aussie Lockers - Welcome to Torq Masters Home of the Aussie Locker
in the long run you will be happier plus you would of just ran through that section with out looking twice!
they are $270 and $290 for front and rear here are the links
Lockers - Aussie Lockers - Welcome to Torq Masters Home of the Aussie Locker
Lockers - Aussie Lockers - Welcome to Torq Masters Home of the Aussie Locker
in the long run you will be happier plus you would of just ran through that section with out looking twice!
the great him
Elite Member
no only elocker tacomas have the same diffs, the non elocker tacomas have a larger ring gear and carrier assembly
the great him
Elite Member
i was mistaken the ring gears are the same just the carrier and housings are different
here read though all of this on toyota diffs
Erik's Toyota Differential info
here read though all of this on toyota diffs
Erik's Toyota Differential info
Gerdo
New member
After hearing from, and wheeling with, those that have an automatic locker or Limited Slip in the front diff, I would only go open or selectable locker.
Too many downsides to this setup.
crashman
New member
I would be interested in finding out the downsides I want to get lockers and these seemed like a great deal
RussToy
New member
I'm interested in hearing the downside also...??
I respectfully disagree. I ran a LockRite in my last truck ('88 Land Cruiser) for years and never had any issues at all. It takes a few drives to get used to and after that driving is natural. They don't "kick the rear" in to the next lane, make it dangerous in wet or snowing conditions, etc.
Reliable, inexpensive, strong, and well-behaved is how I describe autolockers.
I'm talking strictly rear lockers, they are horrible up front! A selectable is the only option for the front.
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TCMach
New member
x2. I feel like thats what Gerdo was referencing as well (correct me if im wrong!). Even on the Aussie Locker website it says one of their lockers installed in the front diff will cause a "self centering effect offroad". That being said this thread has caused me to research auto lockers again and I know where 300 bucks of my money might be going very soon!
crashman
New member
steezemcqueen
Moderator
Not sure if you or the shop did this already but it would be pretty easy to tell if its the transfer case or the diffs. Put it in drive and check if the drive shaft rotates. If it does, its your diff. If not, t-case or trans.
Check that before you drop the cash on new parts. Also, give Yoda Jim's a call in Denver. They will have whatever you need way cheaper than going with something new. Last i checked, diffs are about $250 for a non elocker or $400 for an elocker
Check that before you drop the cash on new parts. Also, give Yoda Jim's a call in Denver. They will have whatever you need way cheaper than going with something new. Last i checked, diffs are about $250 for a non elocker or $400 for an elocker
