ManDownUnder
New member
I am looking at installing body lift on t4r and am wondering high high can i go without complications?
For example how high before steering needs altering.
For example how high before steering needs altering.
Help With Body Lift
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ManDownUnder
New member
Ok would you be able to explain the adjustments required for 2" bl or at least list the worst any help would be appreciated.
You need to move the same things whether you do 2" or 3". The rad has to be moved but the correct brackets should be in your kit. The brake lines need to be unbolted from the firewall and moved also. There is usually enough extra line coiled up between the body and frame, you just need to be careful when lifting the body so they don't kink while stretching out. The steering is the worst part of it, but it isn't that bad. You just need to extend the shaft between the body and the steering box. There are plenty of splines already there but getting them to move is the tricky part. Also, you may have issues with shifters. If you have a 5 speed, you may need to bend the t-case shifter a bit so it doesn't hit the floor. If it is auto, you will need a custom shifter pivot bracket or need to modify the existing bracket as it is bolted to the body and not the trans. As far as I know, nobody makes a kit for autos so be aware of that.
fourwd1
Moderator
Stretching the coils of the hard brakeline to accomodate a 3" BL puts too much stress on them, if there is even enough to reach to begin with. Similar thing with adjusting the steering shaft to fit, there won't be enough engagement at either end to be safe (although there are other ways to do it).
The gas filler neck will need to be repositioned for a 2" BL and replaced for a 3".
Also the engine to body ground strap will need to be replaced with a longer one.
The gas filler neck will need to be repositioned for a 2" BL and replaced for a 3".
Also the engine to body ground strap will need to be replaced with a longer one.
whiterunner95
New member
im also considering getting a 3in body lift for my 95 4runner. Some questions that come to mind are:
Whats the change in MPG?
How much (on average) does it cost to have someone put it in?
Would stock tire size look weird or should i move up in tire size?
thanks.
Whats the change in MPG?
How much (on average) does it cost to have someone put it in?
Would stock tire size look weird or should i move up in tire size?
thanks.
whiterunner95 said:
Shouldn't have much affect on the MPG.
Mine didn't atleast.
'bout the cost I'm not so sure.
I would definatly upgrade to at least 31s or even 33s (with small fender trimming and probably new fender flares)
Just one hint, I wouldn't go for a 3" body lift unless you were goin' for something bigger than 33s IMHO.
2" for 33s should be fairly enough, and with 1-2" lift on coils should be enough for 35s with minimum trimming and fender flares. Perhaps need to cut the firewall or bash it abit inside so they'll not hit the firewall when full-lock while turning.
And remember, the wider the rims 'n' tires are, more clearence is needed, thus, more trimming on the firewall.
Also, one perhaps, a security issue, if you would ever have a very harsh crash, the body *might* (there are very small chances but it's better to play it safe
) tear of the chassis. On my truck I moved the body mount that's beneth the firewall up along with the body lift, no spacers there.
But I think it's probably an overkill for most trucks, as I think this risk is mostly if you roll your rig few times.
I may be overreactin' on this, just my few cents.
P.S.
What I had to do when I lifted my body 2":
Put longer pipe for the fuel stuff!
Release the brake lines from the body and stretch the "coil" abit' I might have had aftermarket ones so you might need longer ones.
I didn't have to lengthen the steering shaft, I don't know why really, I took it all apart and could by no means get the spacers I had for 'em to fit! Never was a problem.
Also, I dropped the radiator abit so it wouldn't pull the hoses that run to the engine too much.
Moved the 2nd body mount (1st one in the front beneth the bumper) up along with the body, no spacers there.
Fab'd plates to lift the bumper as well with the body. (Otherwise it just looks silly)
and probably few other stuff that's already be mentioned here in this thread.
But of course, I didn't buy a kit for a body lift, maybe some of these things are explained in the manual comin' with the kit or spacers for the bumper, and stuff...
Also, one other thing, how I raised the body, I made alot of wooden triangles to put between the body and the chassis to lift it equally everywhere.
Just needed one jack and a pipe and a metal plate for the liftin'.
I think I took one or two days doin' that. But at that time I wasn't very used to doin' things like that.
Happy bodyliftin'
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Just my opinion, but anybody that says the body could rip off the mounts doesn't know what they are talking about. The mounts are in the exact same location, just spaced out. One could argue that the shear strength is different, but with the number of mounts and the weight of the body, it will just not happen, not any more than with stock mounts. I've driven a truck for 9 years with a 3" body lift with no issues whatsoever (I was even in an accident with it once). There was plenty of brake line, even after they were slightly uncoiled as well as no issues with the steering shaft. I think the splines may have moved about 3/8 to 1/2 of an inch over about 3" of spline. I've heard all kinds of people say that body lifts are crap and suspension lifts are the only way to go. That's complete B.S. Unless you change the length of the control arms or any other part of the geometry, the end result is exactly the same... a spacer to give more tire clearance, nothing else. So why would you spend 2 grand more for the same end result?
klr toy said:
I'm sorry to say, but I've seen few rollovers and I've seen many broken bolts in the body mounts and more scary stuff.
It's really really not so much of a threat, but these thing can happen. Especially on older rigs when the body mounts may have started to rust, etc, there is more load carried on the mount in case of an accident.
Thankfully, most guys who are in this business, think abit of this stuff automatically and fix rust etc and try to keep their frames in good shape, etc.
Don't get me wrong. Body liftin' is the way to go, when they're done well.
Here in Iceland we have a regulation 'bout maximum body lifts, because of EXACTLY these things.
4" max. My rig is 3" body lift and is quite okay.
(we also have maximum lift 10", 4 on body and 6" on chassis, or 7 on chassis and 3 on body.
)With body lifts, there are few advantages, the center of gravity in the vehicle doesn't change as much as with lift on coils/leafs.
Just bear in mind that there is extra load on the bolts in the body mounts, as well as the mounts themselves. Stronger bolts are quite useful.
ManDownUnder
New member
thanks everyone for the help i will let you know how it goes.
question
I have a 1999 toyota 4runner and I am putting a 3" lift on it and I am wondering if I need to adjust brake lines etc. and or put LR upper control arms on it also?
I have a 1999 toyota 4runner and I am putting a 3" lift on it and I am wondering if I need to adjust brake lines etc. and or put LR upper control arms on it also?
fourwd1
Moderator
A Body Lift and a Suspension Lift are two different things.
A BL is basically spacers that go between the body and frame. Main advantage is more room in the wheel well for larger tires.
A SL lifts the entire frame and body up higher, making more room for larger tires, and more travel, clearance, etc for offroading.
A BL is basically spacers that go between the body and frame. Main advantage is more room in the wheel well for larger tires.
A SL lifts the entire frame and body up higher, making more room for larger tires, and more travel, clearance, etc for offroading.
Cripsician
New member
So I just put a body lift on a 97 rig and my Manuel lever is a little rough after I cut the galvanized plate that hold the dust boot on the shifter. I tried to heat it with a torch but not sure if it got hot enough to actual bent but the shifter lever shade bent the wrong way I needed it to Ben and not trying to heat it too much so I'm not melting any seals in the manual lever manifold that plugs into the t-case.
Any otjer routes you could suggest beside replacing the whole dang thing? I haven't don't much searching online to see what the cost are for a modified lever for this body lift. Suggestions are needed.. thanks.
Dropzone
New member
6 - 10 year old thread, and the dude you quoted hasn't been around since Last Activity: 04-08-2009 09:45 AM
you need to remove the shift lever to apply the heat while its in a vice,
only way you are gonna get it tweak enough to work.
if a 3rd gen manual is anything like previous generations (quick google search showed it is similar)
or you might have better luck in the 3rd gen folder
http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-gen-t4rs/
The gear shift just pops out with what looks like a small dome under the rubber boot. remove the boot, spray with some lube, let it soal,
press down lightly on the dome and it should rotate about a quarter turn to the left and release the shifter.
sort of like the pic
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