Help with liquid leaking or dripping

[xwake4lifex]

Those look like the high pressure feed lines connected to the steering rack - google 4runner steering rack and you can see a pic of it put of the 4runner - don't think those lines are leaking though, it's probably a seal by the shaft that connects the rack to the steering link. The hole rack is $300+ with a core, OEM is probably double.

I agree with you. I was just looking at photos of them. The lines don't seem to be leaking at all. Can I not replace just the part that the boot is connected to (near the bolt) or just replace that part? Instead of buying a whole new rack and pinion?

Edit: Is it just a seal leaking that can be replaced?

 

[WOLVERINE]

Oh I'm sure you could, I saw a seal kit available online - probably not the route most go though.

The previous owner to my current rig replaced the rack at 249k miles - I flushed and refilled with Toyota WS because they used PS fluid.

They charged him 3 hrs for labor to do the swap, OEM part was over $600 based on receipt. Total invoice was $1197.

 

[xwake4lifex]

Oh I'm sure you could, I saw a seal kit available online - probably not the route most go though.

The previous owner to my current rig replaced the rack at 249k miles - I flushed and refilled with Toyota WS because they used PS fluid.

They charged him 3 hrs for labor to do the swap, OEM part was over $600 based on receipt. Total invoice was $1197.

Well, shit. That's a ridiculous amount, especially when this one small section is leaking and I don't have other steering issues. It appears to be just the seal between that steering column U-joint and where it connects to the steering rack. I've gotta do some searching...

 

[ScooterMD]

I agree with you. I was just looking at photos of them. The lines don't seem to be leaking at all. Can I not replace just the part that the boot is connected to (near the bolt) or just replace that part? Instead of buying a whole new rack and pinion?

Edit: Is it just a seal leaking that can be replaced?

also doubt it's the lines. i would bet it's the seal where the steering column enters the pinion assembly, where you see the most fluid in your pic. there are definitely kits for r & p seals, but i have only seen universal kits, so i don't know how well they fit and have thus never tried them. most importantly, I think it would be a hell of a lot of work to remove the steering column and replace the seal with the assembly still in the truck. stop leak, my friend, stop leak...

 

[xwake4lifex]

also doubt it's the lines. i would bet it's the seal where the steering column enters the pinion assembly, where you see the most fluid in your pic. there are definitely kits for r & p seals, but i have only seen universal kits, so i don't know how well they fit and have thus never tried them. most importantly, I think it would be a hell of a lot of work to remove the steering column and replace the seal with the assembly still in the truck. stop leak, my friend, stop leak...

Yeah I have no idea what the removal of that piece alone would entail. Nothing is ever easy...

 

[Soneill]

Yeah I have no idea what the removal of that piece alone would entail. Nothing is ever easy...

You will waste more time and effort trying to replace just that seal. Replace the rack or you can try the stop a leak method. I would never put it in my truck but that's up to you. As a mechanic I've seen that stuff ruin too many cars and trucks.

 

[ScooterMD]

I do have an appointment on Monday to get it looked at, but I think I feel better hoping that it's only power steering fluid.

what was the result of appointment? new R&P? cost estimate?

 

[WOLVERINE]

^^ I second Soneill above, never used stop leak, but it may work....

It all depends on your situation, if there are budget constraints, simply keep a bottle of recommended fluid around and top off occasionally, it is probably ATF fluid that you need to use - check yoir owners manual (the power steering fluid in lieu of ATF fluid may have been what broke the seal down - who knows.)

If you are leaking all over the driveway and this is the concern, put a little catch pan down until you decide whether or not to try a "stop leak" product.

If you can afford to replace the entire rack, do that. OEM rack seems to be the preferred part to use.

 

[xwake4lifex]

what was the result of appointment? new R&P? cost estimate?

^^ I second Soneill above, never used stop leak, but it may work....

It all depends on your situation, if there are budget constraints, simply keep a bottle of recommended fluid around and top off occasionally, it is probably ATF fluid that you need to use - check yoir owners manual (the power steering fluid in lieu of ATF fluid may have been what broke the seal down - who knows.)

If you are leaking all over the driveway and this is the concern, put a little catch pan down until you decide whether or not to try a "stop leak" product.

If you can afford to replace the entire rack, do that. OEM rack seems to be the preferred part to use.

Shop said it would need a new R&P. Just seems like a bunch of bullshit. Just gonna keep driving it for now and get some more opinions from a few shops. It's not leaking terribly bad at all, just wanted to get it fixed, but little did I know it was gonna be a $1k+ fix...

Still too chicken shit to put stop leak in my car. It's my DD and I am definitely on a budget. I don't need something else going wrong...

Edit: I'd like an OEM steering rack, but it's 2-3x the cost of other brands. And I definitely cannot afford that right now. I just don't understand why one of these seal kits wouldn't work.

Seal kit.

 

[Bernardchan96]

Is it a V8?, i recently had a leak i could not find turns out its the transmission cooler lines that uses automatic transmission fluid.

 

[ScooterMD]

Still too chicken shit to put stop leak in my car. It's my DD and I am definitely on a budget. I don't need something else going wrong...

I guess maybe it could damage the PS pump....maybe? sounds like damaging the R&P should be a low concern...

I just don't understand why one of these seal kits wouldn't work.

Seal kit.

I think they would work fine. The issue isn't the kit, it's accessing where it's located on the R&P with the R&P still installed in your truck. If the R&P were removed, it would probably be a piece of cake. maybe. but trying to remove the old seal and install the new one w/o removing the R&P would be disaster. Think of how hard it was just to get a decent picture of where it is leaking; can you imagine turning wrenches in there? unless you have some sort of laparoscopic mechanic kit, I would be far more afraid of that than a little bit of stop leak...

 

[xwake4lifex]

Is it a V8?, i recently had a leak i could not find turns out its the transmission cooler lines that uses automatic transmission fluid.

Nah it's a 4.0L V6. We'll see tomorrow. I'm taking it into a shop right where I work and they'll check it out and let me know.

I guess maybe it could damage the PS pump....maybe? sounds like damaging the R&P should be a low concern...

I think they would work fine. The issue isn't the kit, it's accessing where it's located on the R&P with the R&P still installed in your truck. If the R&P were removed, it would probably be a piece of cake. maybe. but trying to remove the old seal and install the new one w/o removing the R&P would be disaster. Think of how hard it was just to get a decent picture of where it is leaking; can you imagine turning wrenches in there? unless you have some sort of laparoscopic mechanic kit, I would be far more afraid of that than a little bit of stop leak...

Yeah you're probably right. I'm getting one more opinion on things tomorrow and then I'll decide where to go from there.

 

[xwake4lifex]

Update 1/31/19 1537 PST

Got another look around on my vehicle and they had a plethora of things to fix (including very simple things I can do). The most important points are as follows:

• Wheel bearing (loose) - needs to be replaced
• Axel seal leak (leaking gear oil), OK for now fluid-wise, but needs to be fixed

~ $840 for all this is to be fixed. Anyone have thoughts? I think the wheel bearing and hub assembly is the #1 safety priority.

 

[AuSeeker]

Update 1/31/19 1537 PST

Got another look around on my vehicle and they had a plethora of things to fix (including very simple things I can do). The most important points are as follows:

• Wheel bearing (loose) - needs to be replaced
• Axel seal leak (leaking gear oil), OK for now fluid-wise, but needs to be fixed

~ $840 for all this is to be fixed. Anyone have thoughts? I think the wheel bearing and hub assembly is the #1 safety priority.

Whell bearing defintely takes priority!!

So are you saying the rack and pinion assembly isn't leaking?

 

[WOLVERINE]

A good wheel hub assembly is $200-$300, just do it yourself. Axle seals can be replaced when doing CV's, fairly easy and cheap for the seal.....less than $10 each I believe...

 

[ScooterMD]

If the wheel bearing isn't showing any symptoms, such as a humming noise, I don't think it's urgent you replace it and it certainly isn't a safety concern. I drove cross-country and then some on a bad bearing...no problem.
Which axle seal was leaking? I replaced one on My Tacoma and it was pretty straightforward.
The price they quoted you is reasonable...just not clear the jobs are necessary.

 

[xwake4lifex]

Whell bearing defintely takes priority!!

So are you saying the rack and pinion assembly isn't leaking?

I'm thinking I can do the wheel bearing service myself. I've never done it, but I think with a combination of YouTube videos and a Hayne's manual I can manage.

Yep they say the rack and pinion is fine. They claim it's leaking gear oil and the seals just need to be replaced (likely) on the axle.

A good wheel hub assembly is $200-$300, just do it yourself. Axle seals can be replaced when doing CV's, fairly easy and cheap for the seal.....less than $10 each I believe...

A wheel hub assembly is $200-$300? I saw ones on Rock Auto for around $100, but I'm not sure what brand to look for. I'm guessing OEM from Toyota? You're saying replacing the seals on my axle is an easy job? And cheap?

If the wheel bearing isn't showing any symptoms, such as a humming noise, I don't think it's urgent you replace it and it certainly isn't a safety concern. I drove cross-country and then some on a bad bearing...no problem.
Which axle seal was leaking? I replaced one on My Tacoma and it was pretty straightforward.
The price they quoted you is reasonable...just not clear the jobs are necessary.

I don't think I hear any humming from it, but I have noticed a little bit of a noise recently. I can hear it from inside the car and I feel like it changes a little when I increase my speed. The mechanic made it sound like my wheel was going to fall off while I was doing 70mph on the freeway. He said it has a lot of looseness or jiggle to it. It's the right front axle seal I believe.

I'm currently at work so I'm going to post the email diagnostic they sent me when I get home and it has some photos they took trying to show the problem areas.

 

[ScooterMD]

this has turned into an interesting thread.

you'll need a press for the bearing. you can buy an OEM bearing but will need to take it to a machine shop to be pressed on. the seal should be a piece of cake when axle is removed.

a few things that should be clarified:
- these guys say the R&P is fine and it's gear oil that's leaking, but earlier you said that the PS fluid level was low "My power steering fluid was just slightly above the "cold minimum" mark. You can see where the previous level was and it's definitely gone down." these don't add up...

- how did gear oil get way the hell up to the steering column when it is leaking from an axle seal?

- why do you need a new hub assembly???

- did the mechanic who said your wheel would fall off have "bernie madoff" on his nametag?

 

[WOLVERINE]

LOL. Bernie Madoff - good point.

I think what Scooter is saying, is, any mechanic can find thousands of $'s worth of suggested maintenance, at any given time, with an older vehicle - don't buy into scare tactics and certainly don't jump into shop paid repairs that are unecessary.

Some people wait to fix things until they break. Some replace/repair as suggested maintenance before there is a failure.

Do what you can to prolong the life of the existing parts - don't abuse the rig driving like a madman (or woman), top off fluids, use recommended fluids, etc.- , but be ready to replace when they fail - either have the part in hand ready to replace yourself or know where, how and who is going to repair/replace when it does fail.

Yes, axle seals are cheap, the labor to replace them is expensive if a shop replaces them.

The entire wheel hub bearing assembly can be replaced cheaply enough to avoid the mess and hassle of replacing just the bearing. I believe Blue Pit bearing assemblies are $200-$300.

Is it a necessity, or a suggestion? Sounds like suggested maintenance to me.

Some owners of diesel HD pickups let their rigs leak their entire lives. The trade off is, their cabs and truck tool boxes smell horrible due to all of the different bottles of "top-off" fluids spilling everywhere....and they are slowly contributing to environmental contamination.

Like I suggested earlier, what you decide to do, is up to you. Slow leaking/weeping gear oil, leaking ps fluid, etc. is not a serious concern - if you are on a budget, just watch the fluid levels and fill as necessary.

this has turned into an interesting thread.

you'll need a press for the bearing. you can buy an OEM bearing but will need to take it to a machine shop to be pressed on. the seal should be a piece of cake when axle is removed.

a few things that should be clarified:
- these guys say the R&P is fine and it's gear oil that's leaking, but earlier you said that the PS fluid level was low "My power steering fluid was just slightly above the "cold minimum" mark. You can see where the previous level was and it's definitely gone down." these don't add up...

- how did gear oil get way the hell up to the steering column when it is leaking from an axle seal?

- why do you need a new hub assembly???

- did the mechanic who said your wheel would fall off have "bernie madoff" on his nametag?

 

[xwake4lifex]

this has turned into an interesting thread.

you'll need a press for the bearing. you can buy an OEM bearing but will need to take it to a machine shop to be pressed on. the seal should be a piece of cake when axle is removed.

a few things that should be clarified:
- these guys say the R&P is fine and it's gear oil that's leaking, but earlier you said that the PS fluid level was low "My power steering fluid was just slightly above the "cold minimum" mark. You can see where the previous level was and it's definitely gone down." these don't add up...

- how did gear oil get way the hell up to the steering column when it is leaking from an axle seal?

- why do you need a new hub assembly???

- did the mechanic who said your wheel would fall off have "bernie madoff" on his nametag?

I'm glad this could turn into an interesting thread! What's the fun if there aren't a few twists and turns?

I did mention earlier that the power steering fluid was a little low. I know it doesn't quite add up either, but the determination of the fluid being gear oil would align with my previous mentions of the smell being really bad, especially when cooling off from being driven.

LOL. Bernie Madoff - good point.

I think what Scooter is saying, is, any mechanic can find thousands of $'s worth of suggested maintenance, at any given time, with an older vehicle - don't buy into scare tactics and certainly don't jump into shop paid repairs that are not unecessary.

Some people wait to fix things until they break. Some replace/repair as suggested maintenance before there is a failure.

Do what you can to prolong the life of the existing parts - don't abuse the rig driving like a madman (or woman), top off fluids, use recommended fluids, etc.- , but be ready to replace when they fail - either have the part in hand ready to replace yourself or know where, how and who is going to repair/replace when it does fail.

Yes, axle seals are cheap, the labor to replace them is expensive if a shop replaces them.

The entire wheel hub bearing assembly can be replaced cheaply enough to avoid the mess and hassle of replacing just the bearing. I believe Blue Pit bearing assemblies are $200-$300.

Is it a necessity, or a suggestion? Sounds like suggested maintenance to me.

Some owners of diesel HD pickups let their rigs leak their entire lives. The trade off is, their cabs and truck tool boxes smell horrible due to all of the different bottles of "top-off" fluids spilling everywhere....and they are slowly contributing to environmental contamination.

Like I suggested earlier, what you decide to do, is up to you. Slow leaking/weeping gear oil, leaking ps fluid, etc. is not a serious concern - if you are on a budget, just watch the fluid levels and fill as necessary.

I don't like leaking fluid from the bottom of my car, but I know it happens in older vehicles especially. I'm more into fixing things when they break as opposed to having parts ready to go. Is there a way for me to check the health of the wheel bearing and hub myself?