Help with liquid leaking or dripping

[WOLVERINE]

Great vids on Youtube to help you out :

YouTube - vid on wheel hub bearing

Also, I recommend going to a nearby parts store and, at the very least, smell the difference between PS, ATF and Gear Oil - better yet, also look at the difference in viscosity and color to help you diagnose leaks better in the future.

 

[xwake4lifex]

Great vids on Youtube to help you out :

YouTube - vid on wheel hub bearing

Also, I recommend going to a nearby parts store and, at the very least, smell the difference between PS, ATF and Gear Oil - better yet, also look at the difference in viscosity and color to help you diagnose leaks better in the future.

Thanks for the link. I've got a few videos saved already. These are likely projects over some weekends, a project at a time. Unfortunately I'm on a pretty tight budget right now. I have a small container of PS fluid and definitely know the smell of that now and since the fluid leaking is gear oil, then I also know what the gear oil smells like too. Just not as bad as some descriptions I read online (at least not to me).

Maybe the silver lining here is I can use this opportunity to take some photos/videos and help others down the road with some simple guides. I know a million people have done it already, but I know I'm always looking for more sources.

 

[xwake4lifex]

Update 2/1/19, 1202 PST

This update is here in the OP and I will add as a reply in this thread.

I had my vehicle taken into a shop very near to my workplace yesterday. They diagnosed the fluid leak and (of course) came up with a plethora of items to replace/service. This topic has sort of evolved into my 'repair/maintenance' thread. Some of the suggested fixes are important to me and I would like to fix them ASAP. I use my 4R as my daily driver, travel forest roads with it, and do a little light off-roading (nothing crazy). Here's a list of what the shop wanted to fix, for what price, and what I am going to attempt myself. All prices are parts and labor included so people can get an idea of what a shop is charging. I did not pay for any of the listed services.

• Front right differential axle side cover seal leak, racked and found class 3 leak, needs to be replaced, would also like to service front differential when seal is replaced -- $168.33

• Front right wheel bearing and assembly replace, loose -- $545.26

• Rear brake pads unevenly worn, replace brake pads, rotors, and brake calipers -- $712.55

• Bad battery, failed load test, replace -- $203.41

• Dirty cabin air filter, replace -- $89.94

• K&N intake filter cleaning -- $64.79

• License plate bulbs/3rd brake light out, replace -- $28.88

• GRAND TOTAL = $1,899.06

I took my truck to O'Reilly's today and asked them to check my battery and alternator for me. Alternator is in great shape and everything passes, but my battery is definitely in the last 1/4 of its life. Okay, so the battery is "going." I wouldn't call it "bad" just yet.

Anyway just to be clear, I replaced the license plate bulbs and 3rd brake light this morning - for a grand total of $7 (and I still have an extra 3rd brake light bulb). I can take care of my cabin air filter and the K&N on my intake. I am going to get a new battery in a couple weeks when I get paid. Easy removal and install. I've watched some YouTube videos on how to replace the wheel bearing and hub assemblies and I am confident I can do that myself. I've got the tools, the time, the patience, and the beer. I'll check out my own brake pads at this point and confirm these issues, but I am also confident I can replace the brake parts as needed. It's not difficult.

The only job I'm unsure about is the differential axle seal leak. I feel like I'm a good part of the way there if I have my wheel off and stuff for the wheel bearing and hub assembly job. I also don't understand why I need the wheel bearing and hub assembly. Is it easier to just replace both parts? Should I replace both of my front wheel bearings and hub assemblies at the same time while I'm doing that? Someone suggested a Blue Pit bearing kit. Any other brands people might suggest?

I want to thank everyone who offered advice and suggestions in this thread. It helped a lot and I learned a lot more about the fluids potentially leaking from cars. And I'm going to tackle each of these things as long as they're needed mostly by myself, except maybe the seal leak. I'm going to keep an eye on the PS levels over time.

TLDR; Took my truck to a shop. They found a lot to fix/maintain. It's a ridiculous amount of money. With some help from this forum and YouTube you can save yourself a hell of a lot of money if you do things yourself. And not everything is necessary immediately.

 

[ScooterMD]

nice update.

$90 for a cabin air filter?!?? wtf! it's a few bolts in the glove compartment, and maybe 20 bucks, max, for a good replacement.

any time i hear someone suggesting to replace the air filters (usually used to happen when my girlfriend would take her car to get it's oil changed or some other service, which she has learned NEVER TO DO AGAIN since we got married), i immediately disregard anything else they tell me (or at least take it with a massive grain of salt) and suspect they may be a total POS.

that should give you an idea about the "necessity" of the other things they recommended.

here's my thoughts on your list:

- Front right differential axle side cover seal leak... -- $168.33
Sounds legit and reasonable price. but i certainly wouldn't get it done at that shop. i would wash the shit out of your engine first and confirm that it is indeed leaking.

- Front right wheel bearing and assembly replace, loose -- $545.26
Seems 100% unnecessary at this time. Once you start hearing whining sounds and you feel that your wheel is really loose when you lift the truck and wiggle it, do it. not now.

- Rear brake pads unevenly worn, replace brake pads, rotors, and brake calipers -- $712.55
why do you need to replace the rear calipers? are they frozen? it sounds like you're on a budget, so, if anything, just start with the pads and the reassess later. i certainly wouldn't do them because the Madoff shop you went to recommended it.
and for the rotors, if you're really on a budget, try taking them to a brake shop and asking how much they'll turn them for. i used to pay $5/rotor when I was poor and in school.

- Bad battery, failed load test, replace -- $203.41
why replace the battery if it hasn't failed yet? wtf does 1/4 of it's life even mean?? if you are afraid of getting stranded, buy a cheap portable jump starter (under $60 on amazon) and keep it in your glove compartment. great idea to have one on hand anyway. replace the battery when it fails.

- Dirty cabin air filter, replace -- $89.94
see above

- K&N intake filter cleaning -- $64.79
Ditto. what a joke.

- License plate bulbs/3rd brake light out, replace -- $28.88
whatever

GRAND TOTAL = $1,899.06
- Tell that Madoff garage to go F itself. And tell your girlfriend never to go there. Did they offer to loan you the money at 25% interest to do the work asap before your truck explodes?

 

[ZebRuaj]

So its not a PS leak? Or all the other services + PS leak?

You can buy the wheel bearing separately and press it onto your old hub. Or buy a new hub too. Most folks don't have a press and the tools to separate/rebuild. They sell assemblies that bolt on/off to make your life easier. Pick your brand according to your wallet. You can do both sides as preventative maintenance, but honestly, they're so easy to get to, I just fix what needs fixing.

Diff seal isn't too hard to do. If you can change a CV axle, you're already 99% of the way to getting the inboard diff seal. And you might as well do it when you yank off the wheel bearing job as you're already doing most of the beginning steps getting to the diff seal.

 

[xwake4lifex]

nice update.

$90 for a cabin air filter?!?? wtf! it's a few bolts in the glove compartment, and maybe 20 bucks, max, for a good replacement.

any time i hear someone suggesting to replace the air filters (usually used to happen when my girlfriend would take her car to get it's oil changed or some other service, which she has learned NEVER TO DO AGAIN since we got married), i immediately disregard anything else they tell me (or at least take it with a massive grain of salt) and suspect they may be a total POS.

that should give you an idea about the "necessity" of the other things they recommended.

here's my thoughts on your list:

- Front right differential axle side cover seal leak... -- $168.33
Sounds legit and reasonable price. but i certainly wouldn't get it done at that shop. i would wash the shit out of your engine first and confirm that it is indeed leaking.

- Front right wheel bearing and assembly replace, loose -- $545.26
Seems 100% unnecessary at this time. Once you start hearing whining sounds and you feel that your wheel is really loose when you lift the truck and wiggle it, do it. not now.

- Rear brake pads unevenly worn, replace brake pads, rotors, and brake calipers -- $712.55
why do you need to replace the rear calipers? are they frozen? it sounds like you're on a budget, so, if anything, just start with the pads and the reassess later. i certainly wouldn't do them because the Madoff shop you went to recommended it.
and for the rotors, if you're really on a budget, try taking them to a brake shop and asking how much they'll turn them for. i used to pay $5/rotor when I was poor and in school.

- Bad battery, failed load test, replace -- $203.41
why replace the battery if it hasn't failed yet? wtf does 1/4 of it's life even mean?? if you are afraid of getting stranded, buy a cheap portable jump starter (under $60 on amazon) and keep it in your glove compartment. great idea to have one on hand anyway. replace the battery when it fails.

- Dirty cabin air filter, replace -- $89.94
see above

- K&N intake filter cleaning -- $64.79
Ditto. what a joke.

- License plate bulbs/3rd brake light out, replace -- $28.88
whatever

GRAND TOTAL = $1,899.06
- Tell that Madoff garage to go F itself. And tell your girlfriend never to go there. Did they offer to loan you the money at 25% interest to do the work asap before your truck explodes?

Thanks. The prices are some crap. That's for sure. And like I mentioned, I'm not doing any of it until I can confirm myself that these things should be done.

$90 for a cabin air filter is insane right? I replaced my girlfriend's in her Prius and if (that's a big if) mine actually could use replacing it's so cheap to do. Ridiculous.

I was thinking about washing off my engine and following the fluid as it leaks. What's the best way to go about this? Should I use some sort of engine degreaser on the differential and surrounding area? Anything I should avoid?

I'm actually about to go lift my truck myself and check both of the front wheels for play to decide if it's actually that bad or not. Seems like a great way (in addition to your points) to determine the quality (or lack thereof) of a shop.

Yeah I have no frickin' clue why they want to replace all the brake parts. Probably because it gets them a bunch of money. It's bull. I'm going to check the pads myself and see. I don't know if the calipers are frozen or what (potentially). I am on a budget, but not insanely tight.

As for the battery, the guy who was testing it with me at O'Reilly's today said I should be good for a while longer. To be clear, they are not the ones who said the battery was "bad". Didn't pressure me into getting a battery, but instead suggested to just keep an eye on it and if it starts struggling then I could get a new one. I already own a portable jump starter. Bought one for my girlfriend last year also. I've used it several times for other people. It's fantastic.

I'll check th cabin and intake filters myself. Those take 5 minutes. My license plate bulbs and 3rd brake lights were out though so I did fix those this morning. Don't wanna get pulled over for that stuff.

Totally calling that shop the Madoff shop from now on. There is another shop very close to my house that I trust more. I had them do work on my Mustang before I got my 4Runner. So if it's still needed after I clean under the car, I'll take it to them to fix the axle seal leak.

Update 2/1/19 1432 PST

Lifted my 4R to check the wheel bearings myself. The front driver's side seems pretty tight when trying to wiggle it at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions. 12 and 6 o'clock seem good too. Seems to rotate with relative ease. Some slight grinding noises when rotating. The front passenger side has wobble at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions that is pretty noticeable. Not as much at 3 and 9 o'clock. Similar noises come from wheel when spinning it, but it is considerably more difficult to rotate than the driver's side. And for fun I pulled my cabin air filter and the K&N intake filter... A little dirty, but nothing bad at this point. K&N website even says not to clean it until it's really dirty and they show some photos. Their idea of "time to clean" is really grimy looking.

20190201_142847.mp4 - Google Drive

20190201_142738.mp4 - Google Drive

Two videos of me testing the bearings of my front wheels. Driver's side is much easier to rotate. Passenger side is much more difficult.

 

[AuSeeker]

Just an FYI, while yes you can replace just the wheel bearing and use your old hub....BUT to do so you will need a 20 ton press, which no one has mentioned up to this point, that the reason most buy the complete hub assembly since most don't have or access to a 20 ton press to press out the old bearing and press in the new one.

All the rest excepting the axle seal you can do easily yourself with basic mechanical experience, if you have more than basic mechanical skills/experience even the axle seal would be rather easily done as well.

 

[xwake4lifex]

Just an FYI, while yes you can replace just the wheel bearing and use your old hub....BUT to do so you will need a 20 ton press, which no one has mentioned up to this point, that the reason most buy the complete hub assembly since most don't have or access to a 20 ton press to press out the old bearing and press in the new one.

All the rest excepting the axle seal you can do easily yourself with basic mechanical experience, if you have more than basic mechanical skills/experience even the axle seal would be rather easily done as well.

I learned about the need for a large press from some online research. I'd prefer to get it as an all-in-one unit anyway so that's not a concern for me. Yep I'm going to do all the other jobs myself, when they are totally necessary as opposed to recommended.

I'll probably end up getting the axle differential seals replaced, but at a different shop.

 

[ScooterMD]

Just an FYI, while yes you can replace just the wheel bearing and use your old hub....BUT to do so you will need a 20 ton press, which no one has mentioned up to this point,

ahem, pardon me?!

this has turned into an interesting thread.

you'll need a press for the bearing. you can buy an OEM bearing but will need to take it to a machine shop to be pressed on. the seal should be a piece of cake when axle is removed.

Xwake: thanks for the videos and updated.

For the play in the wheels, hard to tell but doesn't look that bad. If you aren't haven't symptoms while driving, think you'll be fine for now. Just keep a close eye on it.

For cleaning, locating the source of a leak is a common problem and I always clean the shit out of my engine block with a solid degreaser, followed by a thorough wash with soapy water and then a solid rinse. if you don't have a hose and space to drain at your place, i suggest driving to a spray car wash, soaking w degreaser, and then washing/rinsing. don't skimp on degreaser, buy 3-4 bottles and spray it from all angles, including below and sides, and let it sit for a good 10 minutes. you really want to remove all the old shit so you can see from where it re-accumulates. I'm still just not convinced you don't have a PS leak. wouldn't it suck to replace all the axle components and find the same leak hasn't gone away??

 

[AuSeeker]

this has turned into an interesting thread.

you'll need a press for the bearing. you can buy an OEM bearing but will need to take it to a machine shop to be pressed on. the seal should be a piece of cake when axle is removed.

ahem, pardon me?!

Scooter, while yes you did mention that a press was needed...but never did you mention how big of a press was needed, hince my post, anyone can get a small press rather cheaply, but a 20 ton press is not all that cheap to purchase and why many don't own one.

 

[WOLVERINE]

Hey, no rooster fighting here. Use of a press at a machine shop was mentioned - the specialty piece of equipment needed was implied.

For the op, the entire hub assembly replacement is probably the way to go, if he wants to DIY it, and it sounds like he does.

I forgot to mention also O.P., that you can simply gently vacuum your cabin air filter out occasionally and get 2-3 times the life out of it - I used the Lexus charcoal cabin filter in my 04' and did this - it lasted me a very long time.

Sounds like you're all set with a plan - the more you DIY, the more you'll save.

 

[xwake4lifex]

ahem, pardon me?!


Xwake: thanks for the videos and updated.

For the play in the wheels, hard to tell but doesn't look that bad. If you aren't haven't symptoms while driving, think you'll be fine for now. Just keep a close eye on it.

For cleaning, locating the source of a leak is a common problem and I always clean the shit out of my engine block with a solid degreaser, followed by a thorough wash with soapy water and then a solid rinse. if you don't have a hose and space to drain at your place, i suggest driving to a spray car wash, soaking w degreaser, and then washing/rinsing. don't skimp on degreaser, buy 3-4 bottles and spray it from all angles, including below and sides, and let it sit for a good 10 minutes. you really want to remove all the old shit so you can see from where it re-accumulates. I'm still just not convinced you don't have a PS leak. wouldn't it suck to replace all the axle components and find the same leak hasn't gone away??

There is basically no play in the front driver's side wheel, but there is some play at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions on the front passenger's side. The wheel is also noticeably more difficult to rotate than the driver's side.

What would the symptoms be of a bad wheel bearing or one going bad? I have noticed a rhythmic noise at speeds around 65mph when I'm driving on the highway. I'm not sure if it's indicative of the wheel bearing or not.

It would be the worst to do the repairs, only to find I still have a power steering leak. I've got work for a few hours today, but when I get back I'm going to clean around the area where the steering U-joint enters the rack and see if it leaks any fluid. A good way to put it under pressure would be to raise the car, turn it on, and move the wheel side to side for a couple minutes right?

Hey, no rooster fighting here. Use of a press at a machine shop was mentioned - the specialty piece of equipment needed was implied.

For the op, the entire hub assembly replacement is probably the way to go, if he wants to DIY it, and it sounds like he does.

I forgot to mention also O.P., that you can simply gently vacuum your cabin air filter out occasionally and get 2-3 times the life out of it - I used the Lexus charcoal cabin filter in my 04' and did this - it lasted me a very long time.

Sounds like you're all set with a plan - the more you DIY, the more you'll save.

Yep I'd rather just do an entire hub assembly replacement. At this point I've watched about 30 videos on how to do it and I'm starting to have dreams about it.

I'm not worried about the cabin air filter at this time. It's really not bad and a replacement one (even with activated charcoal) is not expensive IMO. I'll DIY everything I can but I'm trying to make absolutely sure these things need to be done before I move forward with some of them.