HID auto-on issue

[drtisgd]

I'm fairly new to the forum (or at least I don't use it as often as I probably should), so forgive me if this has been asked and answered. After searching ten pages of similar threads without the answer I was looking for I gave up.

I've got a 2008 Limited and picked up a Morimoto Elite HID System from The Retrofit Source last week. As I'm not mechanically inclined and had no desire to screw anything up or spend all day doing it, I took a gearhead friend up on his offer to install it for me. He runs them in his Nissan truck and has no issues with his install there. Also builds and races cars for fun, so when he says he can do it, I believe him. Anyway, the kit is great and the install was pretty simple. The light from these things is incredible. The only issue I'm having is with the "auto" feature for the headlights. If I set it to auto and start the motor, I'll get one on and one off or even both off. All I have to do to remedy that is flick the selector to off and then back to on and we're in business. If I leave the lights off and turn them on manually after the motor is running, no issues. I'd hazard a guess about why this happens to me, but I think it would only serve to make me look less educated than I am. Anyone know what I can do here?

 

[RCs4Runner]

Sounds like you need to use a relay.

 

[riceandpho]

when you use that system, did you also use the relay harness? if you did use the relay harness it should still work normal, unless you have a bad ballast, ask theretrofitsource.com and see if you are part of a ballast recall they have.

 

[AE1M]

I'm fairly new to the forum (or at least I don't use it as often as I probably should), so forgive me if this has been asked and answered. After searching ten pages of similar threads without the answer I was looking for I gave up.

I've got a 2008 Limited and picked up a Morimoto Elite HID System from The Retrofit Source last week. As I'm not mechanically inclined and had no desire to screw anything up or spend all day doing it, I took a gearhead friend up on his offer to install it for me. He runs them in his Nissan truck and has no issues with his install there. Also builds and races cars for fun, so when he says he can do it, I believe him. Anyway, the kit is great and the install was pretty simple. The light from these things is incredible. The only issue I'm having is with the "auto" feature for the headlights. If I set it to auto and start the motor, I'll get one on and one off or even both off. All I have to do to remedy that is flick the selector to off and then back to on and we're in business. If I leave the lights off and turn them on manually after the motor is running, no issues. I'd hazard a guess about why this happens to me, but I think it would only serve to make me look less educated than I am. Anyone know what I can do here?

I have exactly the same issue, but only in cold weather. Nov-February mostly in the Boston area. I need to turn them to ON, then put them back to Auto. Use of relay or not makes no difference. Believe be I went through a lot with this a few years ago. Just live with it for the very cold months. I can tell if they come on or not by the reflection on the bug deflector.

It's very odd. The mfg told me to use a a larger fuse for the headlights thinking the cold caused too much IR (voltage) drop across it in cold, no change.


Bob

 

[drtisgd]

It came with a heavy duty relay and I'm using it. Just to see what would happen, my buddy attempted to hook it up without the relay. Nothing. Checking for a recall is a good idea. I'll definitely do that.

 

[drtisgd]

I was thinking that it could be a problem stemming from the initial pull of power caused by starting the engine in tandem with the initial pull of power required to get the lights going. A delay of a second or two for the auto on feature would probably do the trick...but that's probably not even possible (the theory or the delay). Got lost researching HID last week and a post in a Honda forum about changing a setting in the vehicle's computer caught my eye. I was hoping there was a step like that I wasn't aware of. The only other thing set to draw from the battery are KC lights, but they've been off every time I experienced the issue.

 

[drtisgd]

Talked to the folks over at The Retrofit Source. They confirmed that it's just an issue caused by the way power fluctuates when a car is cranked. The guy I talked to said it was just like the way a radio will often light up, go dark, and then light up again when you're cranking the motor. He suggested that I try a HID Time Delay Relay. They don't carry them (yet), but he said they're available at Retro-Solutions. I've included a link below and will follow up after I've picked a couple up and thrown them in.

HID Time Delay Relay - Retro-Solutions Store

 

[AE1M]

Talked to the folks over at The Retrofit Source. They confirmed that it's just an issue caused by the way power fluctuates when a car is cranked. The guy I talked to said it was just like the way a radio will often light up, go dark, and then light up again when you're cranking the motor. He suggested that I try a HID Time Delay Relay. They don't carry them (yet), but he said they're available at Retro-Solutions. I've included a link below and will follow up after I've picked a couple up and thrown them in.

HID Time Delay Relay - Retro-Solutions Store

I still don't understand why the ballast wont fire after that initial fluctuation. In your example, the radio does finally come on.

If this is the solution, will this drop into the 4R somewhere or will we need to get a socket to wire it to the input of the ballast?

Bob

 

[RCs4Runner]

Talked to the folks over at The Retrofit Source. They confirmed that it's just an issue caused by the way power fluctuates when a car is cranked.

That's a sign of a cheaply made ballast. If you were using OEM ballasts you would not be having that problem. I've never had that problem w/ my Denso ballasts but I've seen numerous people have this same "auto-on" problem w/ XenonDepots kit whether they were using a relay harness or not.

 

[AE1M]

That's a sign of a cheaply made ballast. If you were using OEM ballasts you would not be having that problem. I've never had that problem w/ my Denso ballasts but I've seen numerous people have this same "auto-on" problem w/ XenonDepots kit whether they were using a relay harness or not.

You may be right, I have the DDM 5000K kits running with no relay. They have been great for over years, but when it is very cold, I do need to cycle the headlight switch to get them fired. 35W on a 12V system is only about a 3A draw, much less then stock bulbs, yes a burst at turn on but never popped a fuse.

Heck the kits were $30 each for the ballast, bulbs, wiring harnesses etc.. for the 35W kits. Been in service now for a long time. When I bought them, I was skeptical so I bought a 3rd set to keep as a spare in the truck just in case. Never needed it. Got their nice mounting brackets mounted to the inside panels and really no issues. Love the light.

 

[LTDSC]

relay with correct resistors fixed my problems with HIDs and OEM wiring.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

Yeah, I don't use the auto on feature because of the initial draw when starting, had this problem years ago. I just always turn my headlights on manually, since I'm running the same TRS morimoto kit, and it was quite costly, I like to be in control of when my lights come on anyway.

 

[drtisgd]

That's a sign of a cheaply made ballast. If you were using OEM ballasts you would not be having that problem. I've never had that problem w/ my Denso ballasts but I've seen numerous people have this same "auto-on" problem w/ XenonDepots kit whether they were using a relay harness or not.

That could be the case. The price on this HID kit made me think otherwise when I ordered it. The casing on the ballast is definitely different than that on what a lot of people are saying are the good ballasts. My issue was that nobody seemed to really know where to get the "good ballasts". The consensus in the forums was to go on ebay. More of a personal quirk I guess, but I have a hard time feeling good about purchases like that from random sellers on ebay. After wasting a couple hours scouring forums and doing google searches, I gave up and chose one of the more expensive kits from a company with a good rep, figuring that the quality and customer service would be worth the cost. That, and dealing direct with a company was appealing. If the delay works, then it will tide me over. I'll check out Denso for the next go-round though.

AE1M, I'm showing my lack of knowledge here, but I'm assuming that the delay relays just replace the relays that are already in the wiring harness. The confirmation email I got when I ordered them comes with a link to installation instructions. Checked it out and entered the info requested (last name and order #), but evidently they don't release access to the instructions until the order has actually shipped. Assuming it's a page and not a video, I'll screen shot it and post for posterity.

 

[97BlackAckCL]

I think the issue is with the 55W ballasts, I have the 35W morimoto ballasts, and I have left the auto on feature on a few times, and never had a single issue with a ballast not firing up with this setup and relay harness. I'm guessing that the 55W is trying to draw too much power where I don't think that the 35W ones draw as hard

 

[RCs4Runner]

The casing on the ballast is definitely different than that on what a lot of people are saying are the good ballasts. My issue was that nobody seemed to really know where to get the "good ballasts". The consensus in the forums was to go on ebay.

The same site has OEM Denso ballasts for sale. You can find them for cheaper in the hidplanet classifieds and sometimes on eBay. Here's the TRS links:

KIT / AMP connectors: Denso Slim Ballasts (AMP) - HID Ballasts from The Retrofit Source Inc

D2S connectors: Denso Slim Ballasts - HID Ballasts from The Retrofit Source Inc


They cost more than kit ballasts but they are the same ballasts used in Toyota and Lexus vehicles, so they are top quality. I've had numerous sets of Densos over the years. My longest running set is in my wifes Bimmer. They've been going strong for about 8yrs now, when the OEM / BMW Hella Gen III crapped out within 4yrs.

 

[TheAsset]

I doubt it has anything to do with your situation, I know my HID fogs would kick on for a second while the 4r was starting but the draw from the starter took all the juice from the battery and didn't allow them to stay on unless I turned them off and back on.

I am on all factory harnesses for both headlights and fog lights.

Needless to say I realized I was still on the factory battery (I have recently bought my 4r). I put a fresh battery in and I don't have any more issues.

 

[MikeyMike]

OP, you should contact TRS directly.

I just installed a Morimoto Elite 3Five and am having similar problem. Sometimes when I start my truck and turn on the headlights (my truck doesn't have Auto-headlights), I'd have to turn the lights off then back on because one of them (the passenger side) wouldn't fire up the first time. I have contacted TRS and they are taking care of my issue.

 

[gshadow325]

Cheap ballasts and cheap bulbs. Just because you paid a lot for cheap stuff doesn't mean they are good. It's really hit or miss. I have quad bi xenon on stock wiring and if I crank the car with the headlights on, none of my hids go out. I have 4.

 

[NoWayOut]

IS there any issue with this quote from TRS when it comes to the Denso ballasts "With all this good, what about the bad? Well, OEM ballasts are designed to be mounted completely or partially inside of a headlight housing, so their shell is not water-proof without your help"

Is this something we should be worried about if we install them in our trucks?



.