Higher Mileage "Big Ticket" Maintenance?

[4'running'26]

Hello, all.

Narrowing my current search down to 2010-2014 SR5/TE models.

Those mileage years come in anywhere from 75,000 miles to 175,000.

That, in turn, yields prices anywhere from $14,000 to $22,000.

Obviously, the older ones with higher mileage put me on the lower end of the price range and newer ones with less mileage put me on the higher end.

So, my question is: are there bigger maintenance "issues" i should be looking at for those higher mileage options? I have only owned 3rd gens and loved them (took my first one from 190k to 295k without any issues) but am less familiar with the 5th gens and what to be thinking about. I have read the standard 5th gen threads for new buyers, but I would love any further advice on what to really look out for and/or what to be wary of as the mileage climbs.

Thank you!

JT

 

[4'running'26]

Bump

 

[MossJenks]

No, there's not. There's no timing belt so that's not an issue. Always with an older vehicle things can go wrong, but 4Runners are pretty darn reliable. Most just go and go, and there is no big $$$ scheduled maintenance.

 

[Wolfman’s Brother]

So, my question is: are there bigger maintenance "issues" i should be looking at for those higher mileage options? I have only owned 3rd gens and loved them (took my first one from 190k to 295k without any issues) but am less familiar with the 5th gens and what to be thinking about. I have read the standard 5th gen threads for new buyers, but I would love any further advice on what to really look out for and/or what to be wary of as the mileage climbs.

Thank you!

JT

2014 Trail Premium here with 95k

I wouldn’t have purchased the vehicle with 79k with the intent on adding 200k of my own miles if I thought it was going to be an issue.

That said, ours was CPO so we rung them up for drivers side key key cylinder and a failing passenger side seat adjustment motor. The seat motor was still working, and was replaced as a precaution because it seemed to be struggling and I wanted to ring the bastards up for every dime I could on GP. Seat motor would have been roughly a G without warranty through the dealer. Way less the DIY grown man route.

Other than that, it’s been rock solid. We wheel the shit out of it for what it is, and it just keeps taking it. Put it back on the interstate and set the cruise for 80 and it sails away quietly.

When she reaches 250 I’ll put her on the farm with the Disco I and buy another with low miles and do it again.

 

[4'running'26]

Thank you, all. I thought I knew the answer, but still had to ask.

That's always been my way of looking at it with the 3rd gens as well. It just "feels" a lot different taking that approach when I'm paying $15-17,000 compared to $5-7,000!

I am super excited about the timing chain vs the belt, though.

 

[Honda pc]

I personally wouldnt upgrade or pay that much for a 4runner those years. Just buy cheap 3rd gen and fix as you go along.. Dont think theres that much of difference or improvements to be worth $10k+ or more.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

[4'running'26]

I personally wouldnt upgrade or pay that much for a 4runner those years. Just buy cheap 3rd gen and fix as you go along.. Dont think theres that much of difference or improvements to be worth $10k+ or more.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

I appreciate your opinion. I have been in that same camp for a long time myself.

I am now at the point, however, where the extra cost may be worth the fear, and in some cases reality, of breaking down and putting plans on hold while I wait for parts to get shipped in, etc. The aging 3rd gens are finally getting to the point, it seems, where parts aren't at the fingertips of those in every locale and their general age in such that even well-maintained rigs are bound to have some things happen simply due to age. Of course, 5th gens could have things happen to, but trusting in Toyota's reliability is something I can take a stand on and knowing that I have something 10-14 years newer, combined with the aforementioned reliability, seems like a good reason to finally "upgrade."

It is not a decision I take lightly, though, and I have certainly thought exactly what you expressed multiple times.

I have had three different third gens and drove them (collectively) around 150k miles all over the US on road trips. They have been great. I think I'm just

 

[El Dusty]

So, my question is: are there bigger maintenance "issues" i should be looking at for those higher mileage options?

Not of a ton of help, but my 2015 with 90k has had zero issues. Beside brake pads and rotors at 70k I have not replaced a single part outside of routine maintenance.

Having owned it for 82 out of the 90k miles I can say it still drives great. No noticeable loss of power/compression. Ive modified the suspension so no input on that. The wear and tear on the interior has also been minimal besides the steering wheel discoloring slightly.

 

[JordanT23]

Following..

 

[3rdCoast Runner]

I have a 2016 with 128,000 miles. Bought brand new (Oct. 2015). Been to Moab twice from Texas. Make 700 mile round trips to the family ranch every few weeks. I need and Use 4WD a lot more than the average driver. I have only had tires, fluid changes, brake pads and rotors. I do need to replace some bushings and ball joints before they get any worse and I’m pretty sure the Bilstein or comparable shocks on the Pro will not be “cheap” when they finally give in.
I love this vehicle.
By comparison, my 2003 Dodge 3500 dually 4x4 has had two transmissions, multiple front suspension issues and only has 178K. The Cummins diesel has been rock solid though.

 

[flyrv9]

I'd be looking at accident history and maintenance records for starters. I'd also try to get any prospect up on a lift for a look see. Living in Ohio, rust can be an issue. Look at everything else too: leaks, damage, repairs, new parts, broken stuff, etc.

 

[yota1976]

By comparison, my 2003 Dodge 3500 dually 4x4 has had two transmissions, multiple front suspension issues and only has 178K. The Cummins diesel has been rock solid though.

I know all about having to work on your daily driver, over and over! My previous vehicle was a 2007 Nissan Murano AWD. It had 21,000 miles on it when I bought it and 115,000 miles on it when I sold it. Was very dependable until the last 15,000-20,000 miles I put on it. I had to replace the radiator (upper tank split into), both lower control arms (bushings and ball joints shot), a/c clutch and pulley assembly (it was metal to metal and grinding), high pressure power steering hose, front struts and rear shocks, drivers side window motor...needless to say, I got tired of working on it and was willing to shell out the money for a reliable vehicle that was roomy, comfortable and needed to be 4 wheel drive. I've got about 5500 miles on my 2019 4runner and love it! Bought it brand new with 2 miles on the odometer when I test drove it.

 

[KF4R2011]

2011 SR5
purchased with 156K
motor oil change: $50
trans flush: ~$150
new Pads all around - Wagoner OEX ceramic: $128 (installed myself)
alignment $50
new serpintene belt: can't remember... less than $200 installed
PCV Valve: $10
Bilstein 5100s all around: $372 from Dobson's + $378 to install
throttle body clean: $5 bottle plus my own wrench time

 

[Pathfinder!]

New bumpers, tires, lift, and a rack can all add up to a pretty big ticket item.

 

[Ogre75]

I have a 2016 with 128,000 miles. Bought brand new (Oct. 2015). Been to Moab twice from Texas. Make 700 mile round trips to the family ranch every few weeks. I need and Use 4WD a lot more than the average driver. I have only had tires, fluid changes, brake pads and rotors. I do need to replace some bushings and ball joints before they get any worse and I’m pretty sure the Bilstein or comparable shocks on the Pro will not be “cheap” when they finally give in.
I love this vehicle.
By comparison, my 2003 Dodge 3500 dually 4x4 has had two transmissions, multiple front suspension issues and only has 178K. The Cummins diesel has been rock solid though.

Cummins motors are outstanding, unfortunately they wrap a dodge truck around them.

 

[Nuke]

FWIW, maintenance on all of my Toyotas not including routine PMs:

1981 Celica - sold at 178,000 miles in near-mint condition. 1 wheel bearing, 1 muffler and an alternator

1988 Camry - sold at 205,000 miles, tranny sometimes missed 2nd gear. No significant maintenance

1990 T4R - sold to friend at 215,000 miles. He got rid of it with over 400,000. Head gasket (recall, no charge), timing belt (preventive), water pump (preventive) , front axle boots. Used frequently to tow pop-up camper and bass boat.

1998 Camry - scrapped at 210,000 miles after accident. No significant maintenance

2000 T4R - sold at 152,000 in near mint condition (market was too good not to buy an '08), front axle boots, MAF sensor (my fault. Over-oiled air filter). Used frequently to tow bass boat.

2008 T4R - still own it with 182,000 miles. Front axle boot, front wheel hubs. Still used as primary tow vehicle.

2019 T4R - only 2500 mile's. Still in diapers.

I provide that to indicate how bullet proof these Yotas are. I've owned 6 or more domestic vehicles of which my maintenance cost for any ONE exceeded what I've spent on ALL my Toyotas. And I wouldnt hesitate to jump in my 2008 T4R right now and tow cross country. I never felt that comfortable with ANY domestic vehicle I've owned.

 

[Captsolo]

I personally wouldnt upgrade or pay that much for a 4runner those years. Just buy cheap 3rd gen and fix as you go along.. Dont think theres that much of difference or improvements to be worth $10k+ or more.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

If you ever replace the shocks/struts go with OEM. I made that mistake with a new GM Jimmy went AM - and ride was awful.

And Yes. Toyotas build the best cars and SUVs OAT. Bought my daughter a new Camry in 2015, and she has had no issues.

 

[4'running'26]

Thanks for all the replies, everyone.

I have zero qualms regarding the general, and gold-standard, reliability that comes with Toyota.

Having bought my first third gen in 2012 with 190k on the odometer and taking it for another 100k with only minimal issues, I was sold.

-Regular oil changes
-plugs and wires
-TB, water pump, etc (preventative)
-U-joint (was going bad in Sacramento in 2017 while I was in the middle of a 7000 mile road trip...fortunately Ray from Zen Automotive fixed me up fast!)
-O2 sensor

That was it.

Unfortunately I feel a little gun-shy, probably unreasonably so, because this most recent 3rd gen of mine just went down with a cracked flexplate while I was heading from Ohio to Florida to see my grandpa. Got stranded in Columbia, SC for two days. Thus, the story behind why I'm asking about things for which to check while looking into 5th gens.

Thanks again!

 

[fishman]

I’ve put 175k on my 2012 TE.

The passenger rear caliper had to be replaced at 130k because of contaminated fluid. Other than that nothing else to speak of. I don’t see any major issues down the line.

These are phenomenal vehicles, mine won’t ever be sold.

 

[themaestro]

Just my opinion...these trucks are pretty dang bulletproof, but if I was buying a higher mileage 2010-2013, 100k miles or more, I would make sure every fluid had been changed at least once, including transmission. If you find one that the previous owner has done at least that, I would have no problem predicting 250k+.

For reference, I have a 2010 TE with 125k miles. I've been obsessive with routine maintenance and mine still runs like the day I bought it.