highway driving with little wind

You're speaking Chinese to me. But I am intrigued.



If I just tell the cats at Firestone to "get my caster up to 3.5-5.0" they will abide and know what I'm saying? If they counter with any sort of question I will just blankly stare at them and nod.

I've tried this twice at Firestone. The first time it came back with 3.8 degrees CAMBER and a crooked steering wheel. The second time it came with normal camber and toe, 2.something caster, and a crooked steering wheel. Nice.

I did just get back from a 5 hour drive with 20 MPH crosswinds and a huge rocket box on top fully loaded. Changing lanes on the Zilwaukee Bridge all by itself was not an enjoyable thing. I am seriously considering JBA UCA's to get more caster.
 
You're speaking Chinese to me. But I am intrigued.



If I just tell the cats at Firestone to "get my caster up to 3.5-5.0" they will abide and know what I'm saying? If they counter with any sort of question I will just blankly stare at them and nod.

Do you have aftermarket upper control arms? I think I missed it if you mentioned.

Either way, find an offroad shop that does alignments, if you can. If it's not possible, find a local small shop with the best Google rating. I did that after my lift, when a chain messed up the alignment. You should be aware that many places that do alignments just "set the toe and let her go". They don't worry about caster or camber or any of that. The toe is what produces the most wear usually (unless there's extreme camber or something), so it's the fastest way to turn a profit with the smallest chance of customer coming back with issues.

Smaller mom and pop places care more about business retention.
 
I have a 2021 TRD Pro and drove through some big winds in northern California. I could feel the wind pushing the car around but no issues staying in my lane. Agree that it is sort of a big sail. The worst was a big headwind where the car was downshifting to maintain 70mph. Mostly due to car shape and design. Not an issue for me.
 
I know its a crazy concept, but if the winds are so high you could crack open the windows. It helps a bit. Nothing like being on the Bay Bridge Tunnel during the start of a hurricane.
 
You're speaking Chinese to me. But I am intrigued.



If I just tell the cats at Firestone to "get my caster up to 3.5-5.0" they will abide and know what I'm saying? If they counter with any sort of question I will just blankly stare at them and nod.

Tell the align guys to max the caster out.
OEM uca may get you to 3* or so with minimal/no lift.
Will need aftermarket UCAs to get anywere near 5*.

Caster is a function of 'return to center' effect of the steering.

The more you lift the OEM the less adjustment you will have because the alignment cams do both caster and camber.
So in order to get your camber in spec, with a lift you have less ability to up the caster settings...OEM.

SPC UCAs have a separate slot to adjust the camber and the upper balljoint can be moved to different positions forward and back...caster adjust 0* to 4*.

JBAs uca have a few parameters you need to follow or tire may rub the uca.

Hope that help to clarify some.
 
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Update: I did notice a lot more wind and road groove sensitivity when I was hauling my motorcycle on the back using a hitch carrier. That setup adds 350lbs out back and must lighten the front a little bit.
 
I'm an OTR truck driver. I don't notice the wind in my 4runner, and it's nearly always very windy at home.

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