Hitch mounted bike rack...
- Thread starter Jin
- Start date
axxman
Member
I have seen this rack under many different brand names at varying prices, but unfortunately the price is now $296. I have seen it as cheap as 119.
just shop around I am sure it is possible to find this one for 150 or less. Only concern I have is it is a little bulky, 30lbs is about the norm for most hitch racks I have looked at, I am in a town house so every time I take it off I have to carry it through the house and downstairs to the storage room.
Is it possible to open the tailgate with bikes on the rack?
this looks like the same rack for $116
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UR30BK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TSO9LARYJSG1&coliid=IZH76LW4H9WYF
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VU9TSE/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=1TSO9LARYJSG1&coliid=I31MNV3QJLE9G6&psc=1
Last edited:
Agree on the Kuat NV.
Awesome bike rack, ran me $550.
Works great with my 29er with dual suspension.
Also sturdy enough for my Stomer E-bike.
Originally had the Yakima HoldUp 2, but returned it since it seemed wobbly.
I used to have a Thule hitch mount with the rubber straps. Sold it since the bikes would touch.
The Kuat is still heavy, but very solid. Also comes with a bike repair stand.
Awesome bike rack, ran me $550.
Works great with my 29er with dual suspension.
Also sturdy enough for my Stomer E-bike.
Originally had the Yakima HoldUp 2, but returned it since it seemed wobbly.
I used to have a Thule hitch mount with the rubber straps. Sold it since the bikes would touch.
The Kuat is still heavy, but very solid. Also comes with a bike repair stand.
Jetboy
New member
I've used this one for a few years. Never liked it due to issues with it being hard to use with a variety of bike combinations and being finicky in which bike has to go where and where you have to move the tire cradles. Also the tire straps were too short to fit over my 29x2.5 tires. Worked great for road bikes - didn't love it for mountain bikes with steep top bar/low standover.
So I bought one of these a couple weeks ago at REI garage sale. $99. Much better for my bikes and my use.
So I bought one of these a couple weeks ago at REI garage sale. $99. Much better for my bikes and my use.
Alright, here's some info:
setback is 0 closest to bumper, as advised, 1 is 1.75" away from bumper
pin position 1 is ~90* and 3 is most obtuse
Keep in mind that measurements contingent on my bike include a big fork - that is axle-to-crown measurement of 568mm and a large 2.3 high volume tire on there.
setup 1: rack setback 0 and pin position 3
top crossbar measures 39" from center of spoiler
tire measures 8" from center of spoiler
rear hatch opens without bikes mounted
setup 2: rack setback 0 and pin position 2
top crossbar measures 29.5" from center of spoiler
tire measures -2" from center of spoiler (guestimate) - almost fits on the 1st and 4th positions
setup 3: rack setback 0 and pin position 1:
top crossbar measures 21.5" from center of spoiler
tire measures: n/a
setup 4: rack setback 1 and pin position 2
top crossbar measures 36.5" (iirc)
tire won't fit in the middle, due to spoiler, but at the 1st/4th position, as an inch or so clearance.
setup 5: rack setback 1 and pin position 3
top crossbar measures 41" (iirc)
tire measures : way back! You can probably extrapolate,
hope that helps!
hey buddy just wondering if you have problem going into normal height underground garage?
Thanks,
veloindy
New member
Avoid any racks that apply pressure to a carbon frame. Especially where pressure isn't expected - like the middle of a toptube. If you don't have a carbon frame it's not as big of a deal. I'd personally still avoid.
1engineer
Moderator
Excellent. Did have to mod it a bit though. I got a Trek Stache 7 with 3" tires for my daily rider. 3" tires do not fit in the tire slots so I had to modify the tire carrier portion. (see pic below for mod result) I managed to mod it to fit without breaking the original powercoat paint, which was the result I was going for.
I did have to put the clear decal (same as the one used for cable rubbing) on my top tube where the top mounting point contacts the top tube. Because of dust, mud, dirt, etc the top tube paint was scratching.
First, the only way this rack is going to apply any pressure to the top tube is if you hit a huge bump going 70. The top rack piece slides down and makes contact with the frame and that is sufficient to hold the bike in place. Think about it: five points of contact... two for each tire and one for the top tube. Gravity assists in keeping the contact with the tire. The top adjustable point of the rack only serves to retain the bike in the tire slots in case of a big bump and to keep it upright during transportation. There is no "pressure" being put on the top tube.
Second, both of the bottom tire mounts are adjustable and can slide, so you set it up so that the top piece comes down where your top tube and seat tube join. If you think about the bike geometry then you would realize that is a super stressed area during regular riding. The actual forces developed from hauling the bike over bumps would be minuscule compared to a normal trail ride at that point of the frame.
Third, don't believe everything you hear from fanboys. If you used the rack one time you would realize that there is no way to stress the frame when used properly. My riding partner's bike is a Carbon Scalpel. Several of the guys have a version of this rack around here and because of their praises is the reason I bought it in the first place. Many of them ride carbon.
Fourth, the MAXIMUM amount of force that could be transmitted through the bike during transportation with this rack is whatever force required to compress the foam that surrounds the top mount. Think about it.
Attachments
kingofZroad
New member
I recently upgraded from a Thule rack where the bikes "hang" from the two bars of the rack (and rub/scratch each other) to an "upright" rack. Major improvement!!
veloindy
New member
There isn't a chance in hell I'm putting anything in contact with my S-Works Epic World Cup frame. The thinnest part of a bike frame is in the middle of the tube. I have vested interest in a shop and seen first hand warranty claims that come in on carbon bikes with cracked top tubes because of racks that push down on the frame. They are denied 100% of the time. I'm not saying your specific Sportrack is the offending model. There are several racks on the market that still use a similar method. If you're driving short distances on smooth roads it might be OK.
I do like how the tires sit "down" in the tray's on the Sportrack and a lot depends on the user. Do I think you crank down on your top tube? No. But, how hard does the average bear push down on padded loop holding the frame?
Racks are a touchy subject with shops. The absolute worst rack is the model that clamps the downtube. Yakima finally stopped making them but Thule still makes one.
Last edited:
uptheirons
New member
I went with the Yakima HoldUp rack... few reasons:
- Expandable to 4 Bikes, but can be a 2 bike rack as well.
- Reasonably light to take on and off.
- Doesn't clamp down on the frame anywhere, only the tires.
- Hitch pin is Threaded, and can be locked on, which helps keep rattle to basically nil, and is a super easy and sturdy install.
- Supports a variety of Tire and bike sizes, Fat Bike, 29er, standard 26/27.5"... no problem.
- Can be moved out of the way to open rear hatch without removing bikes, unless i have the 29er on, just slightly too tall to clear the rear hatch.
- Keyed the same as my snowboard racks, which is really just a nice convenience.
Only picture i see to have of it, as you can see i had my 29er this day, and had to remove it to open the hatch.
- Expandable to 4 Bikes, but can be a 2 bike rack as well.
- Reasonably light to take on and off.
- Doesn't clamp down on the frame anywhere, only the tires.
- Hitch pin is Threaded, and can be locked on, which helps keep rattle to basically nil, and is a super easy and sturdy install.
- Supports a variety of Tire and bike sizes, Fat Bike, 29er, standard 26/27.5"... no problem.
- Can be moved out of the way to open rear hatch without removing bikes, unless i have the 29er on, just slightly too tall to clear the rear hatch.
- Keyed the same as my snowboard racks, which is really just a nice convenience.
Only picture i see to have of it, as you can see i had my 29er this day, and had to remove it to open the hatch.
veloindy
New member
I went with the Yakima HoldUp rack... few reasons:
- Expandable to 4 Bikes, but can be a 2 bike rack as well.
- Reasonably light to take on and off.
- Doesn't clamp down on the frame anywhere, only the tires.
- Hitch pin is Threaded, and can be locked on, which helps keep rattle to basically nil, and is a super easy and sturdy install.
- Supports a variety of Tire and bike sizes, Fat Bike, 29er, standard 26/27.5"... no problem.
- Can be moved out of the way to open rear hatch without removing bikes, unless i have the 29er on, just slightly too tall to clear the rear hatch.
- Keyed the same as my snowboard racks, which is really just a nice convenience.
Only picture i see to have of it, as you can see i had my 29er this day, and had to remove it to open the hatch.
Solid choice and bike shop approved! Clamping the tire is the way to go. I would own this exact rack if I didn't have a 1up.
1engineer
Moderator
Must be a regional thing. The guy who owns our LBS has a similar rack to mine and their mechanic has one too. A friend that just finished third overall in a race in Kentucky this past weekend has the same rack.
You are right though. I can see how an idiot could clamp in the middle of a top tube and use all their weight to force the top clamp down and break the carbon. They really have to be a "special" person to do that though. Maybe a roadie lol. If I had a nice road bike I wouldn't use my rack because there is no "give" in a road bike. No tire give, no suspension give, nothing.
There is nothing out there that is idiot proof.
Last edited:
veloindy
New member
Absolutely - There are A LOT highend bikes sold along the front range of Colorado. A LOT of idiots too.
T4RZAN
New member
1up racks are growing in popularity in mass numbers. Bike shops have asked to carry them and 1up said no because they already can't keep up with orders. They are simple but extremely high quality and they do what they are supposed to do.
The tray style rack is the best way to go, unless you like the North shore style rack. Yakima, Thule, and Kuat are the top three. And just as with anything else, you get what you pay for.
The tray style rack is the best way to go, unless you like the North shore style rack. Yakima, Thule, and Kuat are the top three. And just as with anything else, you get what you pay for.
I'm a "roadie" and know a few people that use that top tube hold-down rack on carbon frames and have never had an issue. I think the key is to realize what you're doing and not go crazy on it. That said, I think if you use that type regularly you will eventually end up with some paint marring at least f you care about that. I used that type one time when traveling with another guy and have a mark from it. Here's my take on the popular hitch mount racks, really need to decide on what features are most important to you.
1up: if you normally just carry one bike and you want to be able to leave the rack on and still be able to open you hatch without having to move the rack out of the way.
Thule T2: reasonably priced if you find on sale or used, no contact with the frame at all, solid as a rock, but heavy. Integrated lock design is good. 2-bike rack blocks opening hatch when not in use, have to fold down.
Kuat: similar in function and a little nicer than Thule, but pricey.
Amazon top-tube rack: best value if you don't care about rack touching frame, and lighter.
I've seen all these used by other guys I ride with and generally no complaints for any of them. I ended up getting the Thule for a little over $200. At that price, I think it's great. Man it is solid and really easy to use. But don't plan on taking it on and off a lot. It's heavy and awkward. If I had to do it over again, I would consider the 1up since I almost never carry more than 1 or 2 bikes, and one bike can go inside of needed. Would like to have the slimness of the 1up. For the relative price, I don't think you'll complain about durability of any of these. Also make sure the rack you get has an integrated lock if you care about that.
1up: if you normally just carry one bike and you want to be able to leave the rack on and still be able to open you hatch without having to move the rack out of the way.
Thule T2: reasonably priced if you find on sale or used, no contact with the frame at all, solid as a rock, but heavy. Integrated lock design is good. 2-bike rack blocks opening hatch when not in use, have to fold down.
Kuat: similar in function and a little nicer than Thule, but pricey.
Amazon top-tube rack: best value if you don't care about rack touching frame, and lighter.
I've seen all these used by other guys I ride with and generally no complaints for any of them. I ended up getting the Thule for a little over $200. At that price, I think it's great. Man it is solid and really easy to use. But don't plan on taking it on and off a lot. It's heavy and awkward. If I had to do it over again, I would consider the 1up since I almost never carry more than 1 or 2 bikes, and one bike can go inside of needed. Would like to have the slimness of the 1up. For the relative price, I don't think you'll complain about durability of any of these. Also make sure the rack you get has an integrated lock if you care about that.
KingTaco
New member
My two cents - I've had racks from Thule, Yakima, off brand cheap stuff, and now use a Kuat. It's not super cheap, but it is the best overall rack I've used by far. Here's why I like it:
1. Doesn't touch the frame.
2. Can tilt down past 90 degrees to access the lift gate with bike(s) still loaded.
3. Lock is integrated, and comes keyed to match included hitch pin lock.
4. Everything is included. No buying extras like Yakima/Thule are famous for.
5. Zero rust after 2 years of heavy use (unlike my Yakima).
6. Self tightening hitch system-SO easy to tighten/remove without tools.
It doesn't have an integrated bottle opener, but it comes with one seperate
Unable to attach photo right now, but link is below. On sale 20% off for REI members right now
https://www.rei.com/product/857241/...D=120217890000776882&lsft=cm_mmc:cse_PLA_GOOG
Good luck!
1. Doesn't touch the frame.
2. Can tilt down past 90 degrees to access the lift gate with bike(s) still loaded.
3. Lock is integrated, and comes keyed to match included hitch pin lock.
4. Everything is included. No buying extras like Yakima/Thule are famous for.
5. Zero rust after 2 years of heavy use (unlike my Yakima).
6. Self tightening hitch system-SO easy to tighten/remove without tools.
It doesn't have an integrated bottle opener, but it comes with one seperate
Unable to attach photo right now, but link is below. On sale 20% off for REI members right now
https://www.rei.com/product/857241/...D=120217890000776882&lsft=cm_mmc:cse_PLA_GOOG
Good luck!
My two cents - I've had racks from Thule, Yakima, off brand cheap stuff, and now use a Kuat. It's not super cheap, but it is the best overall rack I've used by far. Here's why I like it:
1. Doesn't touch the frame.
2. Can tilt down past 90 degrees to access the lift gate with bike(s) still loaded.
3. Lock is integrated, and comes keyed to match included hitch pin lock.
4. Everything is included. No buying extras like Yakima/Thule are famous for.
5. Zero rust after 2 years of heavy use (unlike my Yakima).
6. Self tightening hitch system-SO easy to tighten/remove without tools.
It doesn't have an integrated bottle opener, but it comes with one seperate
Unable to attach photo right now, but link is below. On sale 20% off for REI members right now
https://www.rei.com/product/857241/...D=120217890000776882&lsft=cm_mmc:cse_PLA_GOOG
Good luck!
Just for the interest of those comparing. The Thule T2 does 1-3 and I have no rust issues except a little where scratched up on the hitch part. No extras needed for this model. And it comes with the wrench that is used to tighten everything up. But yeah, not as nice or as clean-looking as the Kuat.
Brandon_Reed
Member
I have a Thule t2 as well, it's a good rack but heavy. The kuat is a great unit, a bit nicer than the Thule. There's plenty of good options on the market.
singletrackftw
New member
1upUSA is the best hitch rack ever made. Worth the cost. Nearly ALL metal construction (no cheap faded plastic parts), can be added/removed from s vehicle in about 7 seconds, made in the USA, simple design etc. I actually made a YouTube video on how easy it is to take on and off a car or truck.
http://youtu.be/89ucdWansvM
http://youtu.be/89ucdWansvM
