Hitch repair

[alphacwh]

First post, although avid lurker. I've read the achives extensively but still have questions. I have a 2005 Sport 4x4 V6 with a hitch receiver that is welded (not bolted) to the crossmember, this is the way it came from the factory.

I was rearended and the hitch now has a 30 degree downturn towards the ground. It is obvious that the cross member is twisted because the paint on the cross member/frame weld has chipped off. My plan was to have a certified welder replace the cross member. From here I have questions, should I replace the welded on hitch to the cross member, or go with a Curt or similar replacement. I do like the idea of having it bolt to the cross member as well as the frame rails.

I pull a 5300# tandem axle trailer(boat/trailer/gas) with surge brakes. I'm not exactly sure what is the tounge weight.

 

[scottm]

A certified welder is probably going to give you something stronger than you had, maybe a bit heavier. A bolt-on hitch will be heavier yet, and hang a bit lower.

A bolt-on hitch will need holes cut in the matching places, maybe you already have them further forward on your frame, but some may need to be cut into the new cross-member. I'd have the new hitch on hand for the welder to make sure his fabrication doesn't interfere with your hitch, and to make sure any required holes are added to the new crossmember.

The threaded holes hitches mount into are usually weld nuts: nuts welded inside the frame. Simply threading the frame wall will not be good enough. That may or may not be a challenge for your welder. Bolts are always grade 8 or better, usually fine thread metric, but standard thread should be ok. I'd use threadlocker and torque well.

As far as your original question, I'd go with a welded hitch, but only if your welder is good and he's comfortable with fabricating it. My factory hitch is bolt-on, and surprisingly minimalist, kinda nice. I haven't seen a welded version.

 

[jetboy1975]

Do not go with a welded on x-member hitch with a trailer of that weight. The factory x-member bolt on is only good for 500lbs/5000lbs and its not the hitch that's limiting. That thing is solid. The x-member is the weak point. You risk twisting it (again!) and can damage the rest of the frame at the same time. Get an aftermarket and bolt it up. Holes are already there on frame rails (Curt one doesn't use holes on xmember but is also limited to 500lbs tongue) and it only takes 10 minutes to install. It will be stronger, safer and probably cheaper than a welder too.

 

[alphacwh]

Thanks for the suggestions. I'm going to cut out the old x-member and have someone weld in a new factory piece of steel. My hobart 140 doesn't have the juice to handle this project. I think a bolt on frame hitch is the best solution.