Hockey Puck body lift

Igot1too

Igot1too

New member
I'm sure this has come up but did a couple searches and didn't find anything.

Has anyone here used hockey pucks for a body lift? I only want to lift the body 1" which happens to be the exact thickness of a hockey puck.
 
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You're gonna take advice from a chevy forum? ...

Body lifts are already sketchy, its not expensive at all to get a good one.
 
Maybe I should have asked the question another way.

Does anyone have any evidence or reason to believe using a hockey puck with quality hardware is a bad idea?

Thanks
 
Thats my kind of mod... Thanks for posting this, I was on the fence about doing a body lift just cuz I didn't want to pay so much for this. I'll be doing this for sure now.
 
Igot1too said:
Maybe I should have asked the question another way.

Does anyone have any evidence or reason to believe using a hockey puck with quality hardware is a bad idea?

Thanks
Click to expand...



LoL.

Seriously though, do you think they are the same or are you just looking for "good nuff" ?

If you are just looking for something cheaper than cheap for a POS truck then it makes sense but I doubt a hockey puck can hold up to a real body kit.

My untested opinion is that over time the puck will collapse. :beer:
 
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I thought about it and I honestly cant think of any tested reason that a hockey puck wouldnt work as well as a plastic or poly spacer. But like Brian said, I imagine it would break down over time.

That being said I would NEVER, no matter how much money I saved, use a hockey puck to secure my body to my frame. $150 isn't that much to spend to secure the 2 biggest parts of your vehicle together.

Why not use a hockey puck? Its a... hockey... puck? :flamethrwoer2:
 
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i posted about this before, and no hocky puck are not good because they will crack under constant stress. if you want to make it cheap, i suggest go buy a roll of 2 1/2 inch diameter hard poly plastic, and cut out how many inches of bddy lift you want, then drill a hole in the middle. and before install spray it with clear coat. hope that helped.
 
BTW for people who dont know, body lift company all get their plastic from the same place. so there are no special body lift that are better they are all the same. and plastic pucks are better than aluminum because they flex.
 
As t4r4life mentioned, it is a matter of materials. Hockey pucks are primarily rubber which is good for elasticity and playing hockey. They are not engineered or intended to use as a body lift or under heavy loading.
 
To the OP,

I've know lots of guys who used hockey pucks for body lifts with no failures or issues. They are made from vulcanized rubber and are hard like a motherfu%ker. A problem you would have with them on the 4Runner is that they are 3" in diameter (and look totally Ghetto.) This is a little too big for some of the body mount points.

You could buy a length of 2 or 2.5" round UHMW (That white slippery plastic) which is what the majority of body lift kits are made from. Cut that into 1" biscuits and drill out the centre. However, now you have to pull out all the body bolts, and then run around town trying to find the proper lengths and styles to make it work. Then you will have to mill your own rag joint extension for the steering column (Do NOT use a hockey puck here).

IMO, just buy the kit from someone like Roger Brown. The time and frustration you save, may more than offset the low price.

Edit: Aluminum lifts suck because they can cause squeeking between the frame and rubber body mounts. Whereas the UHMW is slick and wont bind up causing noise.
 
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Socco said:
To the OP,

I've know lots of guys who used hockey pucks for body lifts with no failures or issues. They are made from vulcanized rubber and are hard like a motherfu%ker. A problem you would have with them on the 4Runner is that they are 3" in diameter (and look totally Ghetto.) This is a little too big for some of the body mount points.

You could buy a length of 2 or 2.5" round UHMW (That white slippery plastic) which is what the majority of body lift kits are made from. Cut that into 1" biscuits and drill out the centre. However, now you have to pull out all the body bolts, and then run around town trying to find the proper lengths and styles to make it work. Then you will have to mill your own rag joint extension for the steering column (Do NOT use a hockey puck here).

IMO, just buy the kit from someone like Roger Brown. The time and frustration you save, may more than offset the low price.

Edit: Aluminum lifts suck because they can cause squeeking between the frame and rubber body mounts. Whereas the UHMW is slick and wont bind up causing noise.
Click to expand...

Exactly^^^

Here's my shopping list from last year @ McMaster-Carr updated with todays prices. I made my own, but I also have a small machine shop in my garage...


  • 1 foot of 2.5" black UHMW p/n 9900K35 $25.36
  • 2 packs (5 per pack) of M10 x 140 8.8 Zinc plated bolts p/n 91280A666 $9.18ea
  • 1 pack M10 nuts 1.5mm pitch p/n 92461A500 $8.31

You can re-use 2 of the long stock bolts in the front. I made my own steering spacer from aluminum stock I already had. I also made my own front bumper relocation brackets.
Additionally, I had to remove and drill new mounting holes into the shifter boot surround - far enough offset so shift levers were not binding but the boot surround was still covering the opening.
 
Socco said:
To the OP,

I've know lots of guys who used hockey pucks for body lifts with no failures or issues. They are made from vulcanized rubber and are hard like a motherfu%ker. A problem you would have with them on the 4Runner is that they are 3" in diameter (and look totally Ghetto.) This is a little too big for some of the body mount points.

You could buy a length of 2 or 2.5" round UHMW (That white slippery plastic) which is what the majority of body lift kits are made from. Cut that into 1" biscuits and drill out the centre. However, now you have to pull out all the body bolts, and then run around town trying to find the proper lengths and styles to make it work. Then you will have to mill your own rag joint extension for the steering column (Do NOT use a hockey puck here).

IMO, just buy the kit from someone like Roger Brown. The time and frustration you save, may more than offset the low price.

Edit: Aluminum lifts suck because they can cause squeeking between the frame and rubber body mounts. Whereas the UHMW is slick and wont bind up causing noise.
Click to expand...

Thanks! Finally a good enough reason to not use the puck. I don't need a squeeking truck, and if it doesn't look right that's not gonna fly either. As far as them cracking and/or falling apart, I still haven't found any evidence of that. I've read several post on other boards where people have been using them since the '80s and still no issues.

sportscarfan said:
Exactly^^^

Here's my shopping list from last year @ McMaster-Carr updated with todays prices. I made my own, but I also have a small machine shop in my garage...


  • 1 foot of 2.5" black UHMW p/n 9900K35 $25.36
  • 2 packs (5 per pack) of M10 x 140 8.8 Zinc plated bolts p/n 91280A666 $9.18ea
  • 1 pack M10 nuts 1.5mm pitch p/n 92461A500 $8.31

You can re-use 2 of the long stock bolts in the front. I made my own steering spacer from aluminum stock I already had. I also made my own front bumper relocation brackets.
Additionally, I had to remove and drill new mounting holes into the shifter boot surround - far enough offset so shift levers were not binding but the boot surround was still covering the opening.
Click to expand...

Thanks, I was wondering where I could get some of this, or the Delrin Plastic.
I have a MC account so I'll probably just get this and mill out a rag joint extension. This will basically be the same body lift as you buy, for less than half the price.
Do you happen to remember the thickness of the extension needed for a 1" body lift?
 
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